Hrm, well, yes, you remember that link I encouraged you to check out? http://www.pgmfi.org? They seem to have a habit of picking up on Hondata errors.

BTW, Doug at Hondata invited me to the east coast K-series tuning seminar last month in MD because he wanted to meet me. I guess he likes meeting imbeciles and half-talents.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's two more humorous statements. 1: In the past, you stated that the zener works on the turbo-dodge crowd and that prompted me to ask "so you admit that it works on other cars, now what makes you think it won't work on a Honda??" and you had no answer, just like you still don't. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I stated that a Zener can be used as a clamp, so in that sense, sure it works! Just like one lug nut holding on each wheel works.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You ignored it as usual because you know the response makes you look like a complete idiot. 2: "Cheap Standalone Engine Management" is tremendously relevant. $2000 is cheap to some. Then again, so is $8000. On the other hand, if one could spend $2 and have their fuel solved within enough range to make good power and not sacrifice engine reliability, I'd like to see one person that wouldn't. Sure you'd make more power with a stand-alone, but for $2, you really can't complain.</TD></TR></TABLE>

And again, you still haven't checked out http://www.pgmfi.org, and you can't seem to understand that the setup I recommend COSTS LESS THAN YOUR FMU ALONE even though I've said it repeatedly.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where did I try to edit history?? You speak as if I'm ignoring the chain of events to date. As usual, you are completely and tremendously wrong. For every revision I've acknowledged the changes, not bulldozed them. You act as though I once said "potentiometer" then said "zener" in its place like: Get X potentiometer to install in Y location. Now install the said Zener Diode in Y location". Anyone with an individual mind can see that this is not what happened. The shortcomings are adressed and improved upon. There is no "clean slate" here. That's far more evolution than it is edit. Try again hombre.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let's hear your evolution of thought that brought you to a Zener with a reverse breakdown of 4.3 volts. I asked for it the last three posts, you still aren't providing your math or rationale behind your component selection.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
lol. Another good piece of J.Davis brand Comic Relief. Uhh...just so we're on the same page..where exactly did I reccomend a 13.2:1 AFR? Also realize that BSFC dosen't have JACK **** to do with AFR. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-sigh- I have to admit that I've finally come to a realization: That you are an internet engineer. You have little to no actual real world knowledge, just crap that you find online which is full of holes. Here are the numerous fronts that your calculations are grossly incorrect (as usual) on. For starters, your calculated PSIG is not a realworld pressure at peak power unless you make peak hp at your idle fuel pressure of 42psi which is rediculous. Lets say that the engine in question is utilizing 12psi of boost. Since the STOCK fuel pressure regulator at 42psig (as you state) is a 1:1, you'll be making 250hp at 12psi at WOT on this engine. Since you are introducing 12psi to the manifold, the STOCK Regulator will add 12 MORE psi to the base fuel pressure bringing it to 54psig (42psig + 12)</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be relevant if we were turbocharging just our fuel rail and nothing else. The differential of pressures at the fuel rail compared to the intake manifold is still 41 psi. If you had any experience maxxing out a set of injectors on the dyno, you'd know this. If you had any experience turbocharging a carb'd setup without boost referrencing the fuel pump, you'd know this.

... and my statement holds. 0.41 BSFC.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">which further proves to me that you either A: can not count, </TD></TR></TABLE>

I admit that my last math class was 13 years ago, but it was Calc 3 at UNC-A and I was 15. I may have lost the knack somewhere along the way, apologies. *rolleyes*

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B: are too uneducated to doublecheck your own work which is ALREADY wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's a lot of typing for someone without the real world experience or simple common sense to understand that boost pressure works against fuel pressure. Once we get you worked past that, we can move on to how many years I've spent in college and the degrees I hold.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BTW that makes 2 occasions that you provided me with a link that contradicts what you are saying it is supposed to prove.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, that makes twice you've failed to understand the links I have sent you.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As another tidbit of information, think of all the factory turbo cars in the U.S., all of which pass U.S emissions. Not one of them have .60X-.65X BSFC's because they simply wouldn't pass emissions testing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1) Emissions testing is not performed under WOT , it is performed at idle and under cruise. BSFC is measured at WOT.

2) By stating that BSFC affects emissions, you agree with me on BSFC being directly related to AFR, and therefore contradict yourself.

OK, it's late, I'm tired, I don't care to have you provide me a link to yet another webpage you've misunderstood, and you haven't read your Vizard. Since you won't educate yourself, I suggest that you come up with new and fresh insults, the old ones are becoming repetative and boring. As long as you are amusing, I'm sure you won't be banned.

 

J.Davis,

why are you wasting your time on this still?

He's already proved himself not worthy of anything but a dog **** wanna be know it all like other people on this board.... If it was me, i wouldnt waste my time reading his garbage. Its amazing what kind of **** poo people pull out of their bunghole.

 

i dont know i am starting to believe him, buti just drnak 2 40oz of beer thats 80 oz bitch so ...

zenere fdiode roxoers we are saaalll stupid he is asmart and **** ./

 

Mase, I feel bad for yelling at most people, but this guy leaves me guilt free AND he makes me laugh. A winning combo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Captain Murphy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
zenere fdiode roxoers we are saaalll stupid he is asmart and **** ./
</TD></TR></TABLE>

c'mon, c'mon, pill me up already!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hrm, well, yes, you remember that link I encouraged you to check out? http://www.pgmfi.org? They seem to have a habit of picking up on Hondata errors.

BTW, Doug at Hondata invited me to the east coast K-series tuning seminar last month in MD because he wanted to meet me. I guess he likes meeting imbeciles and half-talents.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So he invited you to a k-series tune. Give yourself a pat on the back. While you're doing that, also think to your self "Just because can crack an ECU dosen't mean I can tune an engine". It's the difference between breaking into a car and being able to drive it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I stated that a Zener can be used as a clamp, so in that sense, sure it works! Just like one lug nut holding on each wheel works.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's one of the most exhaggerated statements I've ever read in my life.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And again, you still haven't checked out http://www.pgmfi.org, and you can't seem to understand that the setup I recommend COSTS LESS THAN YOUR FMU ALONE even though I've said it repeatedly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well for starters, why do you assume that I didn't look at the site that you're whoring? Secondly, your "solution" dosen't work nearly as well in a 440cc application that a RRR/Zener would. And your "solution" certainly dosen't cost less than a zener with 330's would. Infact..I'll make you a bet: I bet you that your "solution" wil not produce better results on 330's than a zener. Period.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let's hear your evolution of thought that brought you to a Zener with a reverse breakdown of 4.3 volts. I asked for it the last three posts, you still aren't providing your math or rationale behind your component selection.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess you must have convieniently overlooked this:


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now...I can see that your arguement has changed from "a zener diode won't work" to "that particular zener diode won't work" because you finally realize that it IS possible. If the described Zener is too high to leave someone in the safety range, then use a lower one. There are many zeners in the 3 volt range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

While you're busy not acknowledging another statement that makes you look rediculous, try to think up some cockamame response for the myriad of questions I've asked you that you STILL can't answer.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote »

lol. Another good piece of J.Davis brand Comic Relief. Uhh...just so we're on the same page..where exactly did I reccomend a 13.2:1 AFR? Also realize that BSFC dosen't have JACK **** to do with AFR.

Wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong? lol, okay. So..not only did you bulldoze the question of "where did I reccomend a 13.2:1 AFR?" because you knew you could not answer it accurately, but you also failed to realize that the BSFC formula that you provided does not consider AFR which is why I said "internet formulas that are full of holes".

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That would be relevant if we were turbocharging just our fuel rail and nothing else. The differential of pressures at the fuel rail compared to the intake manifold is still 41 psi. If you had any experience maxxing out a set of injectors on the dyno, you'd know this. If you had any experience turbocharging a carb'd setup without boost referrencing the fuel pump, you'd know this. </TD></TR></TABLE>

This is one of the most rediculous things I've ever read. If you read YOUR provided link they state "SYSTEM FUEL PRESSURE AT FUEL RAIL --- PSIG" &lt;----direct quote. Are you illiterate?? Do you know what PSIG means? The PSIG with a 1:1Regulator at 12psi with a base pressure of 42psi will be 54PSIG. Since apparantly you want to sound like you know, but apparantly dont, the "G" in PSIG means "gauge" as in "observed at the gauge" not "Guess" like you just did. Get real kid. Wait a sec...I think this is the part that you say "Yeah..that's one of my petpeeves. RCengineering is wrong."

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's a lot of typing for someone without the real world experience or simple common sense to understand that boost pressure works against fuel pressure. Once we get you worked past that, we can move on to how many years I've spent in college and the degrees I hold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right. That all sounds nice online, but the reality is that you are incorrect. If you posess all the degrees you state, then you may want to look into a refund because your basic principal of "BSFC" is off. So is your calculations BTW as I've already shown with the innaccurate numbers that you provided that don't add up to what you claim. People aren't as gullible as you want them to be. Anyone who does the work and inserts the numbers themselves (even the incorrect numbers that YOU provided) will see that it's nowhere near what you say it is. Cry all you want, but you can't argue with numbers.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, that makes twice you've failed to understand the links I have sent you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhh... despite what basic math proves...what ever you say.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Emissions testing is not performed under WOT , it is performed at idle and under cruise. BSFC is measured at WOT.

2) By stating that BSFC affects emissions, you agree with me on BSFC being directly related to AFR, and therefore contradict yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>

1: Right. The final PSIG in ANY factory boosted car is still controlled by a 1:1 regulator which will all rely on the inital line pressure. If the pressure were 30psi and then added 1psi/psi of boost over a 10psi span, they'd never run past 5krpm, which once again shows that you are a complete imbecile. All of these cars have a higher than 30psi inital line pressure and still build 1:1 on top of it. If you think that inital line pressure is irrelevant, wait till you try to work on an 03 Cobra's fuel system!! Try plugging in a 30lb fuel pressure into YOUR provided links and witness yourself what an *** you just made of your self.

2: How does that contradict my self? Were does your worksheet show any plug-in for AFR??? Okay then. Once again, that's why I say that it's full of holes. It tells you how much fuel is supposed to be used..but dosen't calculate the most important factor of ACTUAL fuel consumption which is AFR.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, it's late, I'm tired, I don't care to have you provide me a link to yet another webpage you've misunderstood, and you haven't read your Vizard. Since you won't educate yourself, I suggest that you come up with new and fresh insults, the old ones are becoming repetative and </TD></TR></TABLE>

Where have I ever provided you with a link?? Wow. 3 cop-outs for the price of none. I suggest you make this a "note to self": You aren't talking to one of your nuthangers here who don't realize that I am treating you the exact same way you treated me. I'm an individual with a mind that works without the support of some internet engineer. I just hope I'm not the only one that can see that you STILL can't count. And based on your "PSIG" screw-up, I'm starting to doubt your reading abilites.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1316130057 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well for starters, why do you assume that I didn't look at the site that you're whoring? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Because you're talking about $2000-8000 standalones, wtf does that have to do with anything I've said?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Secondly, your "solution" dosen't work nearly as well in a 440cc application that a RRR/Zener would. And your "solution" certainly dosen't cost less than a zener with 330's would. Infact..I'll make you a bet: I bet you that your "solution" wil not produce better results on 330's than a zener. Period.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll take that bet.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=840196

Post up something in the 350-450 whp range - or hell any range - with an AFR plot flat as a strap like that one, that uses your hack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'll take that bet.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=840196

Post up something in the 350-450 whp range - or hell any range - with an AFR plot flat as a strap like that one, that uses your hack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and there you have it. that pretty much puts all this hogwarsh about zener diodes and exponential RRR's in the ditch. this thread is about the AFC hack and it should be left for that. I hope you guys can make another thread if you want to argue about this ****. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by 1316130057 »
Well for starters, why do you assume that I didn't look at the site that you're whoring?

Because you're talking about $2000-8000 standalones, wtf does that have to do with anything I've said?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Everything. You stated "blah blah blah..in this day and age of cheap standalone engine management." and I showed that "cheap" is relevant. You still haven't named this "cheap standalone engine management" that you blab of. By any chance, is it cheaper than $2? It was a complete waste for you to even mention this.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote »
Secondly, your "solution" dosen't work nearly as well in a 440cc application that a RRR/Zener would. And your "solution" certainly dosen't cost less than a zener with 330's would. Infact..I'll make you a bet: I bet you that your "solution" wil not produce better results on 330's than a zener. Period.

I'll take that bet.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=840196

Post up something in the 350-450 whp range - or hell any range - with an AFR plot flat as a strap like that one, that uses your hack.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well that's nice. Too bad it has a 0% relevance to you contraption of parts or 330cc injectors. You show me a link that leads to someone on standalone engine management and racegas (a set-up that you didn't tune BTW), not your hunk of radioshack parts and 330cc injectors. Once again...I'm not one of your nuthangers that accept everything you say, or have a lack free thought. Show me something that's actually relvant. You can't pull this BS over on me, JERKY!! And that's a good job of pretending to ignore the multiple times in my last post that I proved that you have absolutely no idea what you are talking about (like your inability to use a fuel pressure gauge, or to read, or count). Lets see if you'll ignore it in this post too.

BTW: That makes 3 links that don't support what you state they do.

 

So after reading this thread several times, ive think i got it straight on the afc hack that liam821 was talking about. Please if anyone want to add to this, feel free. Here is what i have on my gsr boosting 8psi.

vafc wired as stock normal
440 rc injectors
no missing link or check valves on the stock honda map sensor (connected as stock)
No Fmu
afc set at -.45% in high and low settings

I use this formula:


83% larger (b-a)/a=c c=percentage larger
-.45% set afc using formula (a-b)/b=c, where a=original injector size, b=new injector size, and c=value for afc.

 

QUIT POSTING OFF-TOPIC DISCUSSIONS IN THIS THREAD.

thanks.

AFC Hack only!

 

Anyone know the IN/OUT settings for a GM 2bar MAP?

Don't even mention timing (pre-OBD0).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So after reading this thread several times, ive think i got it straight on the afc hack that liam821 was talking about. Please if anyone want to add to this, feel free. Here is what i have on my gsr boosting 8psi.

vafc wired as stock normal
440 rc injectors
no missing link or check valves on the stock honda map sensor (connected as stock)
No Fmu
afc set at -.45% in high and low settings

I use this formula:


83% larger (b-a)/a=c c=percentage larger
-.45% set afc using formula (a-b)/b=c, where a=original injector size, b=new injector size, and c=value for afc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You are completely correct about how to hook it up... it's not really much of a "hack", because you hook it up the way that it was meant to be. As I'm sure you have figured out, you are using the AFC to lean out the MAP signal so that the ECU will shorten the injector pulses and not see boost (unless you exceed 10 or so PSI), then the 440 or 450 cc injectors deliver enough fuel during those shortened pulses to allow you to tune for an ideal A/F ratio.

However, I know from experience that -45% would be way lean; -35% is much closer to where you want to be, but the A/F ratio really needs to be tuned with a wideband on a dyno (you need the load). Only use that estimate to drive the car to the dyno for tuning.

The math that I would use to estimate what to initially set the AFC to is: (a-b) / a * 50 However, it's quite not that simple, because things aren't that exact... Leaning out the MAP sensor's voltage by X percent doesn't always mean that the ECU delivers X percent less fuel. In your case, the formula works out to -41.667 [(240 - 440) / 240 * 50 = -41.667], and it's -43.75 for my 450cc injectors, but I found that even -38% was a bit lean for me. So, that's why I say start with -35% and get it tuned right away.

 

okay i was reading this and i just got my set up dont but it doesnt real work. this is my set up.

i have a b16 bulit for turbo and its not running right. here's my set up.
block- dymanic sleeves, stock bore (81mm) je pistons with 9 to 1 compression on eagle rods.

head- stock type r with 1mm over-sized stanless steel all motor vavles to raise the compression .5, crower dual valvesprings and retainers, jg intake manifold, ctr intake and exhaust cams, skunk 2 sprockets, msd spark plug wires, ngk zfr7f-11 spark plugs, msd 6al with ss blaster, type r thottle body, missing link, str fuel rail, vortec fuel pressure regulator, rc 440 injectors.

turbo set up-custom turbonetics t4 ceramic ball bearing turbo, drag manifold, hks wastegauge, hks sequenchal blowoff valve, spearco front mount intercooler, greddy profecb boost controller, greddy turbo timer.

other electronics-apexi vfac, air/fuel ratio gauge.

well here's the problem, my turbo doesn't start to spool till like 6,000 rpm but the the car bogs down at about 5,000. i tried to play with the apexi and the most i got it to boost was 8 psi with the boost controller maxed out. i tried to switch to my friends 370cc injectors and they still bog down between 5-6000 rpm. i tried to use my 310cc injectors and it let me boost higher but it leans out. someone told me that it bog because of the injector so i tried all those other ones. i don't know what to do next, so any advice is very appreciated. can any one help on what to do and if i tried this vafc hack can i leave the ML and FMU on or do i have to remove it?

 

Now that the moderator(s) have to chime in to save J.Davis' *** although had nothing to say when he was coming down on me, I'll see if I can help with something else.

Not for nothing "B16t4" but I noticed that you have about 3 parts that overlap their purpose, like the Vortech FMU on an oversized fuelrail and the VAFC. Also, you're using a 'missing link' with the liam-style AFC hack which is a conflicting idea. Some other parts you mentioned don't exist and others don't make any sense like the 1mm oversized valves to up compression, but that's another story entirely.

It seems like you have waaaaaaay too much fuel which could possibly be causing the bog as you're about to break into boost (which is when any regulator will start to add even more fuel) at 6k. It sounds to me like you have too much accessories on too little of an engine. The fact that your B16 can't produce enough CFM to get into boost till 6k may also have something to do with why it won't break 8psi. The amount of things that could possibly be wrong in this combo are nearly limitless. For all we know, you may hit 8psi at peak RPM and have to shift and lag all over again. The head may be restrictive or have a cam that's not designed for usable flow at that kind of RPM. Or maybe those 1mm high compression valves are still using stock seats and aren't sealing properly enough to hold over 8psi. Could be one of a thousand things.

There's no real nice way to say something like this but it sounds like your car is full of the wrong parts. Not trying to be insulting, but it seems like more research (or some research) would have shown that the pressure ratio and desired boost needed to get into and stay into the efficiency range of a FULL T4 would require nothing short of an H-series engine (due to its displacement) and higher RPM (and its inherently higher CFM) to spool a full T4 at sub-stratospheric rpm.

 

i thought that the t4 was too big but it was a good deal so i just picked it up. i was goin to run this car as just a track car. the pistons are a 8 to 1 ratio and some one told me that the compression was to low, so i got the all motor valves just so the compression wont be so low. what do you recommend that i should do with the set up or what should i change. thanks

 

B16t4, well you have a few options here and all utilizing the parts that you currently have:

1: Sell some of the conflicting components like either the VAFC or the "FMU" (I'd sell the FMU in your case) and tune with just the VAFC since you apparantly plan to run more than 12psi. You'd still have some monsterous lag though.

2: Sell some of the conflicting components (see above) and change to a full t3 on the hot side.

3: Sell some of the conflicting components and keep everything else relatively the same, but add a 50+ shot if even just to spool. No lag, more power, and probably the only of these three options that might have you actually make a profit.

Despite your decision I still reccomend a compression check to see if those valves are actually holding any pressure or not. I've never heard of "all motor valves" but it sounds like something that may not be suggested in a boosted application for some unimaginable reason (like that they don't seal against the seats properly so won't contain any real boost). Valves could hypothetically increase compression but the amount of which would be nearly intangible and certainly not in the 1/2-point range. While you're at it, also check to see that the cams don't have too much overlap dialed in because you'll just be pissing hp right out of the exhaust. Set em back to stock specs and work from there. I'd also reccomend posting this question in the Forced Induction Forum under its own title because it's way off this topic and you can get more insight than that of those who just stumble accross it in this post. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redteg_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know the IN/OUT settings for a GM 2bar MAP?

Don't even mention timing (pre-OBD0). </TD></TR></TABLE>

Two bar?

Beuller... anyone.... anyone...

 

bump!!! this f*ckin' thread ownz!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redteg_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Two bar?

Beuller... anyone.... anyone...</TD></TR></TABLE>
:chirp:

:chirp:

:crickets:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redteg_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone know the IN/OUT settings for a GM 2bar MAP?

Don't even mention timing (pre-OBD0). </TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the 2bar GM sensor is the same scale as the stock honda MAP. The honda only reads about 1.7bar and doesnt go all the way to 5volt. So just set it just like you would a normal honda and it should work fine.

liam

 

Thanks, Liam. That was my suspicion. If this works, I've found a way for us to all run 15psi.

WOOT WOOT


(good reading for anyone venturing into these parts)
http://www.speakeasy.org/~sync....html
http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/mapsensor.htm

 

i am running the hack at 6psi, but im throwing a CEL 13... any1 know how to avoid this?

 

cel13 is the baro (AP) sensor. afaik most people just replace it or the entire ecu. remember some are internal, some external.

 

umm, can i install a missing link to avoid it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Iceman05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">umm, can i install a missing link to avoid it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope - that defeats the whole purpose of the afc hack.

liam