sorry if iam asking a question again but if i plan to run 7-8lbs can i use 310s and the afc hack?

 

Hey, I just wanted to drop in and tell everyone that I just installed my turbo and running the hack. I currently have a custom kit on a 2001 Accord automatic. I have absolutely no problems. It feels like a stock turbo. I need to get a smaller housing because of lag, but that's my fault.

 

Ohhh, one more thing. Thank you Liam and all the honda-tech members for all the great info for the past several months while I put my turbo kit together.

 

does anyone know if you can use a gm map sensor to boost over 10 psi with this hack, or will it not work

 

I've got three questions about the hack?

1. Why are low and high throttle set to 98% and 99% respectively?
2. Why are the fuel settings for wide throttle and narrow throttle the same? If they are different, will that be against the nature of the hack?
3. I have to set my 1k to -10% to get a good ideal. Is this strange?

 

I just got 2 questions:
1) Is it possible to use a custom chip with stock fuel & ignition base maps, but modified to make the map sensor read boost and retard the ignition per pounds of boost?
Would the vafc hack still work? would it be better?

2) Do i need to have the atmospheric pressure sensor enabled to use the hack?

 

What's the deal with losing top end? It feels like my car is struggling up there. Is anyone else experiencing this?

 

HEY LIAM THE VAFC HACK SET UP IS NOT WORKING ON MY CAR.NEED HELP

 

Question from the newbie guys. i read the whole thread word for word. i have a d15z6 95 jdm vtec in a 91 civic. seeing its a 91 si and i have the resistor box already is it a plug and play for the 450 dsm's. also is it safe to run the stock pm6 and run my vtec off the vafc? if any could help me out and the thread is super kick a$$. thanks
andrew

 

a lot of dyno graphs posted here has a dip around 5k where vtec kicks in. mine doesn't have that kind of dip and i'm wondering if it's coz of the hack? i don't think it's my vtec not kicking in or i'll get a CEL right?

thanks.

 

****** of all revivals!! This thread will never die Die damn it! die !!

 

does the VAFC hack also apply to the VAFC II?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by filetofit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know I thought they had one at c-speedracing but I couldn't find it.

Here's how you do it. Use a wiring diagram for your car to identify the +5 volt wire, the ground wire and the signal wire for your MAP sensor. Cut the signal wire. Take a 10K (10 kilo ohms, no smaller) cermet or linear taper audio pot from Radioshack (about $2) and attach the ends to ground and signal (the half of the signal wire you just cut that comes off the MAP sensor). Attach the adjustable output of the pot to the other half of the cut signal wire that goes to the ECU. Voila, done. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Since this thread is back from the dead, does anyone run the setup described above? How do you adjust the potentiometer to cut the correct amount of MAP signal to the ECU? Is this really a viable alternative to the AFC hack? I'm very curious about this...

 

what is so hard for people to understand??????????????????

get a freakin V/SAFC, get seom cheap dsm 450 injectors for liek 50-100 bux. set your vafc settings just like they are shown about million times in this thread. and be done with it.

why do people keep trying to alter MAP signal this and smaller injectors with different setting that. damn

if you would just get a AFC and DSM 450 injectors with resistor box and set the AFC the way its supposed to be (which a baby could figure out) then you would realize that you could almost squeeze out about 11 psi before yo throw a CEL for MAP sensor, which is more than enough boost for running the hack. any more and you are gonna go BOOM and then cry your eyez out because you tried to save money instead of getting hondata. (then you have people on here who are going to say "well not all of us can afford hondata" blah blah. well well see what you can afford when you blow your motor and you make a thread in here saying "the day has finalyl happened i blew my **** up"

run vafc with dsm 450 injectors with the proper settings. its not hard and next to hondata ios probably about the safest thing for boost now a dayz compared to the alternative ie... emanage,check valves, FMU, crap.

ok i finished my VENT.

 

cool find

 

just to stir the pot a little.....

what do you guys think about the people running the hack with higher fuel pressure in order to get 13+ psi out of it. Stupid or Stupid fly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just to stir the pot a little.....

what do you guys think about the people running the hack with higher fuel pressure in order to get 13+ psi out of it. Stupid or Stupid fly? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ya it works....but you get to a point where you cant lower the afc anymore (-50% is max). Also the honda computer wont idle very well or run as smooth with -50% on the afc.

But it will work fine.

liam

 

yep, this post back from the dead again!

hey liam, i'm building my h22a and i wanna boost it to about 18 psi. i have the safc but not installed yet. i chose this because i heard it was alot easier to tune that the vafc, and i dont plan to mess around with my vtec points or anything. the safc will still work right? and is it really easier to tune than the vafc? heres what i want to know. i have a set of 680cc injectors, remember that this is an h22a (fuel hog). if i was to use the afc, and a 3bar map, would i be able to fine tune the fuel enough for the boost i wanna run? do u think the 680's would be enough, or should i use an fmu to raise the pressure? also, with this big of injectors, would i be able to trim the fuel enough to still get a good idle if i'm using the 3bar map? also, do u think that i can find tune it enough that there would be no bucking or anything at part throttle? what would u suggest is the best setup between the two? i kinda wanna run this setup because everyone on here says it cant be done, and are quick to flame anyone who wants to try it. so my goal is to show everyone up, but i need some help. i've read some of ur post and u seem to know ur **** when it comes to the afc setups.
thanks daniel

 

Hi Liam,

I hope that you can reply me at this question.
Living in France, I think that we can not use the same fuel (98 ron in France).
Can I use the setup described here ?
Will not I have any detonation ?

Thanks

 

Bailhatch & Liam :::: Just to let u know, I have boosted up to 15 psi on race gas using the up the fuel pressure, trim out the afc method w/ no idle problems.... Most people seem to trim out more fuel at idle, but mine likes the afc around -29 at idle...Either way, no problems....

 

Good Thread. Can't belive it's still around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99lspwr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bailhatch & Liam :::: Just to let u know, I have boosted up to 15 psi on race gas using the up the fuel pressure, trim out the afc method w/ no idle problems.... Most people seem to trim out more fuel at idle, but mine likes the afc around -29 at idle...Either way, no problems....</TD></TR></TABLE>

were u boosting 15psi on the stock map?

 

sorry to bring this back up again from the dead, but im not sure if this question was fully answered.

1. When you're just crusing around and your turbo is spooling or u have small boost in say 4th gear, the census says that the honda ECU will advance timing a lot right?

Well how do you fix that, so you dont have advanced timing? I know that a MSD btm will not help much because it is boost dependant. Retarding timing from the distributor will also not help much unless u retard a lot like 10+ degrees which will kill your low end.

2. The hack uses the map sensor's voltage and makes it smaller depending on boost right? Making the voltage small when your turbo is spooling or making low amounts of boost like the 1st question, advances timing correct?

Is it possible to use a missing link to initially lower the map voltage, then using the safc/vafc to use that voltage to do something so we dont have the ecu advancing timing?

3. How does the safc/vafc richen or lean the injectors? Does it use the ECU's fuel maps and pick one depending on the MAP readings from the afc? Sorry I still dont understand this stuff.

 

ttt

 

Yeah yeah yeah. Back from the dead again. Let's talk about it some more..

Any case, since the SAFC & VAFC are really just programmable potentiometers (fancy term for "variable resistor"), what's realistically stopping anyone from wiring the correct Ohm resistor inline with the stock map sensor (so that you cut out -35% to -45% or what ever your car's preferrence is) then use a RRR to compensate for fuel demands on both the low and high end, or better still, just use a manual pot. If that were the case, you could run say...680cc injectors and still idle well with ~21psi inital line presure and up into the 40's or 50's at the higher RPM/boost levels (again, what ever your car likes). If your car's preferrence is -40% on the low rpm use the setting that will give you 40% more resistance to the ECU. If you need more fuel as boost raises (which you will) that's where the RRR comes in to have you end up at the desired fuel pressure at peak boost. It's the perfect solution. The car will still balance it self according to factory AFR specs and the OBD won't make any real difference. Only the timing within the ECU.

Spend $3 bucks on the potentiometer then $125 for the RRR (the combination replaces the (V/SAFC for less than half the price) and $50-100 for injectors and you're done. $20 for a resistor box (which AGAIN is something that you'll spend about $1 x 4(injectors) = $4 to make one your self)

Total: $182-$232 (depending on source of DSM injectors)
Pros: Cheaper and more tunable than the S/VAFC with infinite RPM points and thousands of possible combinations. Plus you can go leaner (for maximum gas milage) or ritcher (if you decide to add nitrous to the mix) on a moments notice with the rotation of a 1" switch. Not only will you be able to use 310cc injectors and still not starve for fuel, you'll also have the ability to tune below -50% if needed and have the RRR make up the slack if you're using massive injectors

Cons: You have to know how to write your own name, know which wire on your MAP sensor needs to be intercepted, and how to solder/heatshrink in order to accomplish this. If you were too lazy to read this entire post, then you'll probably screw something like this up completely.

Overall: Complete fuel solution with more tunability and less cost than any other proposed solution. But...it still dosen't adress timing if needed. With the leftover bucks, you can buy/make a timing adjustment device (chip or some redneck source of timing control) and still come in under the cost of a S/VAFC and waaaay under the cost of a hondata and still have identical results.

I'll be using this process on my own turbo OBD0 B18 EG as I find the resistances and other specifics needed before I buy the parts. I'll chronicle the entire process. P.S. my actual H-T name is "Black FMIC" but I had to use another name in order to bypass this B.S. 5posts/day limit.