Let us know if u post it so i don't miss it

 

ok im waiting for liam to give me a report back on the a/f gauge readings during boost at 1/2 throttle..and out of boost at half throttle..then it will be finished with basically everything u need to know

 

You know..my a/f gauge is way broken. I only go by what my EGT reads. My EGT really depends on speed im moving at. But at around 60mph in 5th its around 630C, 80mph is closer to 710C. WOT is always around 690-710C.

I dont have any detination at 1/2 throttle....although i do sometimes at 8psi+ at 1/2 throttle....although its there at WOT also. Its mostly because i dont have the ignition retared anything and im running shitty california 91 octane pump gas...and ots of boost! Its not a great combination.

At night though...i dont have a problem with 10psi. Its just on hot days where i have issues...i just fix it by turning down the boost.

My friends b16a/turbo with the same setup as me reads rich at WOT from his autometer a/f gauge. At 1/2 throttle while the ECU is in close-loop mode it reads stoich. But onces the ECU hits open-loop it goes rich. Just like how a honda normally works in N/A mode...no difference.

liam

 

Ya i got the email i need to go over it and ill email you back tonight sometime with corrections and stuff so we can post it on honda-tech. (its been a little busy around here)

liam

 

http://www.thedropshop.tv/vafc.htm
once again
the write up
for this "hack"

 

 

sorry to bring this up again
i don't own a VAFC, but i will be running this setup, HONDATA is way too expensive

I read everything, it sounds great, but i have no idea what everything is.. haha

what is narrow throttle? LOW cam? High cam? wide throttle? throttle points?
what is WOT? TPS? close loop? open loop?

which point should i set the vtec to kick in? thanks for the GREATEST info and GREATEST thread

i have never read a 5 pages thread EVERY WORDS !!! this is a great thread !!!

 

Ok....so this is to basically get rid of the Missing link and FMU. Less crap to break right?

 

This is an awesome thread. Although it made me realize how much more I have to learn about my car....

 

I'm going boost soon and I an going safc instead of fmu and check valves for sure! I've heard so many stories of fmu's stop working and stuff, this just seems so simple! yay!
BTW, does high elevation have any effect on how this works? I'm at 3400 above sea level.

 

up again

i think i have got all of this KIND OF figured out

so if you are running the VAFC and the missing link with the FMU, you would have adjusted the RPM to POSITIVE % for more fuel, right? coz the ECU doesn't read any boost nor more air, so it just ignores the whole intak air system and let the FMU and VAFC add the fuel, right?

When you guys say -40 % or + 40 %, the AFC is just telling the ECU that it has -/+ 40 % air coming in, so that the ECU needs to add more fuel, am i on the right track?

so now, coz u are not using the missing link, the ECU does read how much air it's going in, even at boost, so now u r setting the VAFC at NEGATIVE % to tell the ECU not to throw a CEL code, but still giving it stoich fuel, but coz of the bigger injectors = richer in the engine, AM I RIGHT? But if when the ECU is in close loop, it uses the o2 to adjust the fuel, so then the ECU will trim down the fuel, then it's back at stoich?? but when you are boosting, the ECU is in open loop, which depends on the MAP, which will have more fuel, so we are not worried at all when we are boosting, coz it's in open loop and it's rich, DAMN.. I SOUND CONFUSED, BUT AM I RIGHT??

now this setup has been happening on 8psi 9 psi 10 psi cars, has anybody tried on their 6 psi cars??

now, let me think, coz now it's a 6 psi, i don't have much air going in, so i should have a even lower percent at 4 K to 9 K ? like - 38% maybe?? coz i don't need that much fuel as those 10 psi car?
but i should keep it same as - 40% at 1K - 3 K, because of the bigger injectors, right?

PLEASE read them and let me know if i am on the right track, i really want to understand this whole thing, it's very very interesting.

i have actually talked my friend Steve, he posted this solution setup on his website too hehehe http://www.turbocivic.net/enginemgmnt.htm

maybe he is going to dyno it??


[Modified by xbird, 3:33 AM 7/9/2002]

 

here same basic hack from dsm sites.
FOOL SAFC TECH.


hhtp://www.geocities.com/vttalon/tech.html.

 

i have my +/- set to 4, is that what it should be at? i heard someone say that it should be 6. I set it to 6 though and 40-35 across the map and once and a while i got what seemed like boost creep and i would get a CEL and have to reset the ecu. But at +/- 4 i have to have my settings at 49-45 and it runs fine with no problems for at least a month now....any ideas?

 

Ok, well everyone has questions on this setup, so I guess Ill ask my questions too.. I am currently running the 450 DSM injectors in my 85 Si hybrid (boosted soon) with the S-AFC controlling the fuel managment. I noticed that its a bit jerky at higer rpm low gear cruising (3-4K) this is due to the fuel coming in and out correct? I really dont care for this..I would like it to be smooth as it was, has anyone found a cure for this problem?? The injectors are rebuilt and flow balanced also.

Cj

 

Do we really need and aftermarket fuel pump to make it work or a basic oem civic fuel pump would be ok. Running on 450cc and 8 psi!

Thanks

 

u don't <U>NEED</U> one, but it is recommended that u get an aftermarket fuel pump. Best bet, Walbro.

This post is back from the dead.... lol

 

damn talk about a thread back from the dead!

 

Everyone i know still runs stock fuel pump. But change your fuel filter at the very least.

 

Screw the fuel pump, fix the wacked out ignition advance the AFC hack causes. You have to combine it with a chip, as a BTM still leaves you ~10 degrees advanced in the lower boost region when compared to an FMU/BTM setup or a standalone.

But, yeah, I've ran ~9 psi with stock fuel pump, it doesn't starve for fuel or anything.

 

So a complete shopping list for fuel management would be:

AFC either S or V
450 DSM injectors
- Green seats for the injectors
- Resistor Box also for injectors
Fuel pump (optional)

No check engine lights, no dangerously lean areas, and smooth acceleration across the board. That's waaay cheap. And it's good for 7-9PSI? Am I missing anything in the shopping list? This seems perfect for a daily driver set-up.

 

im using the same setup & it seems to be doin quite well

310cc injectors
aem fpr
vafc

running 4 psi now, but will be runnin 8 when i get my IC

mind you, im at 5,280 ft elevation...so the injectors will be plenty. & i only cut the fuel to about -25% till i get to a dyno


[Modified by b18cya, 10:18 PM 2/27/2003]

 

Hey asdewq, where about in MN do you live? shoot, if you don't live too far from the cities maybe we can get together and tune our cars together. i'll be putting my stuff together soon and running the hack as well. i've already got all my stuff...now all i have to do is find the time and money to install all of it.

 

310cc injectors? is that safe? i will have a greddy kit soon, which includes teh 310s, but i thought it would be kinda risky using them.... anyone? Or should i jus use the blue box

 

Mr. J. Davis,

So when would a stock civic fuel pump start to crap out at 40psi of fuel pressure?

What kind of chip do you suggest also.

 

so was this the birth of the AFC hack???

-Dustin