UPDATE! New Motor![b\]

-B16 Head
ITR intake cam
Peak Performace cam gears
Supertech valve springs and retainers
ARP head studs

-B16 Block 84.5 bore
Golden Eagle HD sleeves
Carrillo 1000hp rods w/ carr bolts
cp 9.7:1 pistons upgraded wrist pins
moroso 5 qt pan
complete oem gasket set
oem water/oil pump

 

Turbo - T3/T04e 50 trim or something of equivalent size (44-48lb/min)...slightly smaller than the 57 trim

Wastegate - depends on the manifold...some are 38mm, others are 44mm. Either way, Tial would be my choice. TurboSmart is another well-known brand

Intercooler - PTE350 or equivalent (http://www.precisionturbo.net/heat-e...s/air-to-air/1)

I dont know the size of the RDX injectors off hand, but you will want something 550cc or larger. To figure injector sizing, you can use a general 6cc/whp...

350whp x 6 = 2100cc total flow
2100cc / 4inj = 525cc per injector

 

Anything over 300whp is going to need forged pistons. You can get away with the stock rods but if it were me I'd go ahead and do rods since you have to rebuild the block.

 

^^A stock B series can easily make 300whp in stock form and many have made a lot more. I wouldnt bother building it for that power goal

Also, stock rods used pressed fit wrist pins and forged pistons use a floating style wrist pin...the two aren't compatible without some effort/machining. If you're going to build it, upgrade the rods AND pistons...not one or the other

 

I didn't realize the 50trim was capable of 400hp, definitely seems like the better route. Ive read by turning up the fuel pressure on the RDX injectors they can flow 550cc. Not sure hoe true that is though.

 

I didn't know the wrist pins were different. Intersting. I know lots of budget builds people have used the stock rods. Personally I think that's a stupid risk compared to a $300 set of Eagles.

And yes, people have made higher horsepower on stock pistons. The question is for how long. Personally, I wouldn't push it past 300whp without forged rods/pistons unless you don't care about reliability.

 

Proper tune and maintenance are key. I'm honestly not worried about the block because 1. it'll be fine, 2. its been in the car since 2007 and is probably on its last leg anyway haha.

 

Manifolds will absolutely have an effect on spool, however the best characteristics of a proper tubular manifold vs log is flow and the fact that a good tubular design doesn't have cylinders fighting each other to enter the turbo like the log does.

In a tubular manifold, the merge design allows the cylinders to help each other since this design already has each cylinder moving in the same general direction unlike the log.

All of this and more can/will effect power, how the turbo reacts, efficiency and even promote engine longevity

 

True, but "Flow" is such a loaded term. Are you looking at exhaust energy volume or velocity in your fluidity argument of tubular styles vs. log?

 

I'm only generalizing the term flow as in the paths the exhaust takes given the resistance in the manifold...etc.

Deeper terminology I'll leave to others but generalizing the term flow I believe makes it easier to under the basic principle differences.

 

I see where you're coming from but I think that simplifying the term is a major problem when it comes to assisting one in their decision to choose a manifold that is proper for their purpose; Each type of manifold has their purpose, and "flow" in one aspect may not be as important as "flow" in another aspect.

I remember a thread in which someone was talking about worrying about "Heat & Temps" in a particular turbocharger application. Does one mean lower engine cylinder temperatures? Coolant temps?, oil temps? You just can't be that general. Many people use that logic and make the big mistake of getting the wrong type of manifold combined with the wrong turbo for the wrong purpose..... But that's what keeps the marketplace full I guess..

I wasn't trying to start a debate here, but I have noticed that its these kinds of generalizations that give people the wrong idea of what parts to get for a particular purpose.

 

With proper tuning and the right fuel, its not that difficult. I ran my stock block GSR at 315whp/218wtq for nearly 2 years without a single issue. Given the availability of E85 around here now, I would comfortably push that setup (on the stock block) into the upper 300s-low 400s. I no longer have the car because this was ages ago, but you get my point. Building it is good peace of mind, but i would hardly call it necessary.

 

I apologize for trying to help. :-)

 

C'mon.. its not like that, so there's no need to feel even remotely offended. I'm simply saying that even such a word as "flow" has to be better defined overall for the person to gauge the characteristics as to what the person is looking for. Remember, this is an internet forum.

Its difficult to express particular characteristics of something into words. No one is suggesting to turn the term into a novel; just....be a little more precise with your meaning, that's all. It can easily get confusing for everyone. I know what you're trying to get at, and even agree. But without being specific, the whole meaning of your particular position can be easily lost.

 

Shodan do you agree with the t3/t04 50 trim? What are you suggestions to my questions?

 

I'm going to guess GT3255e...we'll see what he has to say

 

Anyone else?

 

Combustion temp is pretty straightforward. Thermodynamics states the cooler the outside and the hotter the inside, the more energy is produced. But to prevent preignition and other risks, you need proper heat dissipation. This can be done via head gasket, water cooling, spark plugs, exhaust flow, etc.

Air temp is obvious, the colder the charge the denser the air. As far as intercooler sizing, you could have googled that. http://horsepowercalculators.net/int...ler-calculator

Oil temp mainly depends on the oil you use, but also bearing clearances and fuel type. Viscosity and degradation varies, but you pretty much get what you pay for. Using thicker oils withstands more friction when properly heated, but will cause damage out of its operative heat range. Any turbocharged engine will benefit from an external oil cooler.

I'd say the GT3255e is a solid choice for B20Vtec. The 57 trim will still do the job if your turbine housing and wastegate is properly sized though.

Your injectors are too small. RDX = 390cc BUT the dead time is huge so you'll only see "maybe" 340cc of actual flow. I'd suggest at least 550cc but you should consider higher, RC makes saturated 750cc and you really can't go wrong with overkill. Per google again, this is the best injector calculator:
http://rceng.com/technical.aspx?User...qbQaLqlf6oJwoK

 

I'll probably just pick up some ID1000s I guess. I only have about a 1k on RDX though.

So i bought a manifold and down-pipe so my next question is the oil feed and drain. I'm currently running the Vtec off of a T-fitting. Should I buy A sandwich plate? Any recommendations were I can pick up a nice kit? I'm going to go with the t3/t04 57trim Garrett, what restrictor should I go with?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Picked up a log manifold, part of a dump-tube, and a 3in down-pipe. Now I'm looking for a good oil supply/drain kit. I have a b20vtec so I'm looking for something that has a sandwich but I'm also open to other ideas.

 

either way, you need to pick the proper line size and restrictor fittings and return line. Whichever you choose, please use stainless steel and not black nylon, and using either the other part of your sandwich plate or oil sending unit will do the job. Make sure that the restrictor that you use works with the turbocharger you're purchasing. So, no going to eBay to save a few bucks on a Generic restrictor or fitting size. you'll just waste time and money.

PM me with ideas or suggestions if you'd like.

 

i would get the sandwich plate. im using an mfactory one and its been great no problems. i used to use the golden eagle sandwich plate but it seemed like the gaskets would go bad and leak like once a year.


i might have missed it, but were the rod bolts at least replaced or is it stock like never had the oil pan off?

 

PM sent.

Black eg: Stock rod bolts, and not replacing them. I know they are "weak"

 

I would definitely use a sandwich plate. The oil pressure port on the back of the block is not a sufficient supply for both the turbo and the head. I ran the GE for two seasons before switching to a GSR block. As far as feed/return lines, contact B&R Fittings. They have great product and prices, and he is a vendor here on HT.

 

Have you had issues with the black nylon? Like the Pro-Lite and others like it? I have never had an issue with it.