gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I checked out b&r and I'm kinda looking for an all in one kit with everything.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Finally pulled the trigger and went on a spending spree with Goautoworks.com. Picked up a Turbonetics billet 5454, toak waste gate/bov, grams 550 injectors, intercooler and few other little things. Emailed Greg back and forth over the past few days and he responded everytime no problem. This is my first turbo build and I've excited! As for the tune I will most likely go with trackforged as I have dealt with them in the past with no problems.

boosted94gsr

That cool man I bet you're excited. I know I feel awesome after spending a couple grand on cool **** lol. I had one of my old setups tuned at trackforged a few years back.

Post up some pics when all that stuff come in.

ls joker

greg is the man. but why 550cc injectors. what were you lookin to make again.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I really was looking for something that would spool quick and make 350 which I think should be easy. I'm gonna message him tomorrow about the injectors I want to have some room to grow with it.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Ordered the 1000s this morning. Emailed greg and he emailed me back within 10mins. We all know how important customer service is and GoAutoWorks is second to none!

ls joker

1000cc will have room to grow. a guy in the ef turbo threads made 700 or so on id1000s

ls joker

i just hope go autoworks doesnt get overwhelmed with work and shut down. honda scene has lost alot of good fab shops.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Don't even joke about that! How would I determine if I need an oil restricter or not? I keep thinking of random things I should've asked haha

ls joker

most turbo honda applications will require an oil restrictor. however greg wont warranty your tga 5454 if the blue seal is broken.

on that note, i believe greg told me a couple years ago that the tga series units had a internal restrictor aswell as the prefilter. and i shouldnt worry bout it unless theres an extremely high oil psi.

so far his words have been true. ive been on my tga 6157 turbo for two years. no issues. no smoking. a garrett without a oil restrictor would smoke like chimney ive been running the tga 5857 turbo for bout nine monthz now, also without an oil restricor, no issues.

i no its sounds crazy considering other turbo manufactors that many say dont use a restrictor, and their sesl blow. but i definitely feel there is some tech thats not being spoken of from greg or turbonetics on the no restrictor build. BUT... the proof is in the puddin

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Sounds good. Did a little googling and you are correct! thanks again

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I didn't think they made those anymore. And wouldn't you go with the GT3251B instead anyways?

Schister66

They don't...but when that comment was made, they still made those units.

I ran the GT3255e which, if I remember correctly, was designed more for the GSR/ITR flow characteristics whereas the GT3251e was meant more for B16/LS setups. You'd have to ask TheShodan about the exact differences, but when I bought my GT3255b (in like 2008), he steered me away from the 3251 and toward the 3255....at any rate, neither one is still available so its irrelevant

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Why aren't such specifically made turbos available anymore? That's a bummer

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Garrett had a tendency to discontinue certain lines that have not shown any progression into an OEM application that has a current contract.. When that happens, availability of the components of that turbo get harder to come by and more expensive when you do find them, because they discontinued production of the cast wheel.

In addition, machining the housing and backplate get expensive to do to keep it in a compact package. Why do that when that company may have a better designed and built compressor wheel that can replace it? That's why the GT3255B is no longer produced; too expensive to get the materials, machine those materials to fit, and then hope some one gets it, when something better and easier to make is out on the market

The GT3251B is around until the supply of wheels is gone..then that's it for that puppy.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

That makes a lot of sense.

I might be answering my own question but why go with the GT3251B when you can get the Hunter instead?

I'm still curious of the 50 trim "stage III" on your site compared to the 3251B and Hunter.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Received the turbo in the mail on Friday. Mounted it today to see how I want to run all the oil lines and found out I'll have to turn the radiator to fit the turbo.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Well, good luck to you, and congratulations. I am a little surprised with that size of a compressor cover that the radiator has to be "turned" in order to fit with this combination. Perhaps its the chassis you're using which you never described in the beginning. Or, perhaps the bottom radiator post needs to be relocated.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

I'm using a pfab manifold that is ac compatible so that might be why but I'm not sure. It's a 93 civic with a fluidyne radiator.

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Heading to the dyno next Friday at VIP Performace. Last time I was there it put down 197whp and this time I'm hoping for 350whp. Anyone have any tips for me before I hit the Dyno? I just want to make sure this goes as smooth as possible.


Joe

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Just make sure the engine is mechanically healthy, leak -free ( both vacuum & fluid), bring an extra set of plugs with you, spare oil, and think of it as a in-flight check before taking a plane for a flight

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

So I ran into a problem on the dyno with the car overheating.* The car has never overheated on me*. While on the dyno the upper radiator hose would heat up and the lower would stay cool along with the water pump pipe that runs across the block. He said the thermostat was sticking and said he needed to replace it. So I told him to replace it. Still runs hot. Then upon further examination he noticed heater hose port in the side of the head and the biggest port on the intake manifold had both been plugged so he thinks thats thr cause for overheating. I told him I ran it with the intake manifold plugged for years and then he mentioned the gauge calibration was off... so I have two questions.

Can having the two ports blocked off cause the car to overheat?

Can you calibrate the temp gauge through the ecu? I read something a couple days ago that someone had heating issues and they did something with the calibration in the tune. I'm currently running crome.

Thanks for any input I could pass on.
Joe

Blaze45

Blocking/improper routing can cause overheating. I've actually found this to be somewhat common when doing swaps, heater hose lines routed wrong or plumbed the wrong way. Check your plumbing and make sure that you have the coolant going the right direction and that the capped lines... are the lines that need to be capped. Perhaps maybe they need to be looped? Took me a while troubleshooting sometimes to figure this out....

As for resetting the ECU perhaps someone else could shine some more light on that issue....

In my experience, even the best running cars will find a reason to be finicky on dyno days. The worst... Good luck!

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the response blaze that ended up being the problem. Car made 324whp on 9psi but was pushing a decent amount of oil to the can so they stopped short of my 350 goal. So I'm running the endyne kit with the breathers in the back. Should I just run 2 lines to thr valve cover so it doesn't collect all the oil or is that not enough ventilation?

gutted-dx

iTrader: (1)

Haven't been able to talk to the turner since completion but what do you think is causing the can to fill up? I'll ask him tomorrow for leak down and compression results but other than those three things I don't know what else it could be. I'll try and load the graph also.