Fully Built and sleeved gsr with turbo overheating when in boost. ive replaced the thermostat and flushed the coolant but it did not do any good. one thing ive noticed is that the top radiator hose is hotter than the lower radiator hose. its a sohc radiator. help please! thanks

 

How much boost? is it filling the overflow? and stock or apr headbolts?

 

Make sure the cooling system is free of air, fill the radiator with the engine idling at operating temperature. Verify that the radiator fan is working; some aftermarket fans might not work as well as the stock fan. If there is nothing covering the space to the driver's side of the radiator, fit a block off plate (these came stock on 92-95 Civics without air conditioning) so that air from the engine bay cannot recirculate through the radiator. Check the coolant overflow tank. If the radiator keeps taking water and is not leaking, or the coolant overflow tank appears to be contaminated with soot, then the cylinder head should be removed. Cylinder head and block mating surfaces should be completely level and very smooth when using an OEM MLS head gasket.

 

15psi yes it is filling the overflow, and it has ARP headbolts.

 

ive done all the filling and making sure no air bubbles, fan is working, overflow is always overflowing under boost. has cometic head gasket

thanks

 

If the cylinder head fasteners are loose, you can try retorquing the head.

 

Where the head bolts new or used? Sounds like your lifting the head under boost. I've always after a few heat cycles went and re-torqued the headbolts for good measure i always seem to find one or two that needed re-torqued.

 

the head bolts are new but theyve been retorqued already when i replaced the head gasket because it was blown. i will try and retorque again. do i torque to arp specs or honda specs? thanks!

 

what condition is your water pump in? It sounds like the coolant isn't circulating through the engine. both hoses should be similar in temperature when the car has warmed up.

 

they need to be torqued to ARP specs not honda specs. And also check the water pump. Like mentioned above. I Have had a couple fins on my water pump corrode off that wasnt allowing enough flow to properly cool.

 

If none of the head fasteners are loose, then torquing them further is not likely to solve your problem. I believe you can torque the head to 70 pound-feet using 30W engine oil on the fasteners, but you may want to contact ARP for their recommendation. A more important reason for the block off piece (see link) is to prevent incoming air from bypassing the radiator while the car is moving.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/eg-hatch-gsr-turbo-overheating-2752859/

 

Did you check the block and head with a straight edge when you put the new hg on? I had a gsr block with darton sleeves that kept sinking due to poor machine work and the head could be warped also.