Well i put together my new set up and ever since i seem to be having some cooling issues. Not sure what the possible culprit is but i wanted your opinions

-84mm gsR Benson sleeved block
-new thermostat oem
-Samco Radiator hoses
*Ebay Radiator** <----possible culprit


After i make a hard pass at the track, i notice that my coolant overflow is literally boiling and my temp has gone up kinda high....

I am using a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, so i dont know if the coolant is too thick to disipate heat, or maybe i dont have enough antifreeze in the mix causing it not being able to do its job and pull the heat to the radiator.

which brings me to the next issue: Is my cool **** Egay radiator doing a good enough job? because with my stock 1993si radiator, i never had ANY issues with cooling at all, with the same set up.

Also my turbo is a oil and water cooled 35R.

I know it is NOT a blown headgasket as my oil looks perfect, my coolant in my radiator and my overflow is great looking and compression and leakdown test results are well withing spec, also my radiator hoses are not swollen or distorted.

this happened on a friends car as well and he has no idea other than his radiator as well


and a pic of the set up



EDIT: I THINK I MAY HAVE FOUND THE PROBLEM, I MIC'D THE DEPTH OF THE RAD INLET PORT AND IT WAS 16.6MM, I MIC'D MY CAP(SPRING AND PLUNGER) AND IT ONLY MEASURED 15.9MM SO IM BETTING ITS NOT SEALING AND VENTING IT TO THE CATCH CAN UNDER ANY PRESSURE


Modified by mrbsponge at 10:09 PM 12/21/2006

 

well if the exact same setup was fine with the stock si radiator, i would try another stock radiator and see

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by memorybox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if the exact same setup was fine with the stock si radiator, i would try another stock radiator and see</TD></TR></TABLE>


as my cheapest/easiest/most direct option, this will be my first shot at fixing the issue.

i just want to see if anyone else has run into this situation with either cheap radiators, or some other cause

thanks

 

Mike,

Try 100% distilled water using the watter wetter additive.
What ect's did you log if any ?
Are you positive the system is completely air free ?

What brand headgasket are you running ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mike,

Try 100% distilled water using the watter wetter additive.
What ect's did you log if any ?
Are you positive the system is completely air free ?

What brand headgasket are you running ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats up john!

i am NOT sure if it is air free, this go around i will put the front end on the lift and lift it up a bit when i re-do the system.

i am using the GE modified honda OEM 84mm gasket

i will have to look for some datalogs, if i cant find any, i will go make a few passes and see what i get, and i will try some distilled water as well, i have heard it makes a difference

thanks bro

 

I ran into somewhat of the same issue on my boosted CRX. I had a dual core copper unit off of ebay that I was running. A stock like replacement. I ended up breaking it and the car was my DD so I had to get another replacement quick. There was a another EBAY special for 50 shipped so I bought it. It was a single core aluminum. Ever since I installed it, my car wouldnt run as cool as it used to. Generally 15-20 deg warmer. It was even starting to get cooler outside because the fall season was coming. Aluminun radiators do not cool as good as copper units do. The reason why is because copper has better heat transfer abilities then aluminum does. Dont ask me why performance race cars run aluminum units only because they are lighter when a copper unit might weigh more but cool much better. Kinda goes along with why my question of why a turbo MAF draw through sysyem needs a bov that recirculates right back into the intake track?

Sorry got a bit off topic. hth.

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i never had ANY issues with cooling at all, with the same set up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

if it aint broke, dont fix it.

 

check your radiator cap, is it new

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
After i make a hard pass at the track, i notice that my coolant overflow is literally boiling and my temp has gone up kinda high....


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what my block did the pass before sleeve sank

 

Couple things, maybe. radiator cap not giving the right pressure. Pressure raises the boiling point a certain amount per lbs of pressure. Did you change the fan? I don’t think the “cheap slimline” fans pull enough CFM. The cheap ones only pull 600-800 while the more expensive ones will pull twice that. Well just a couple of guesses. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats what my block did the pass before sleeve sank</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn Chris. Just out and say it, lol Mike. I will shoot you a PM

 

Here is the real problem...your intercooler is blocking too much air to your radiator.

I have the same problem too......I live where it gets super hot so this is a big issue for me in the summer. I run a fluidyne, water wetter, new rad cap, slim fan, and external oil cooler and oil temps get rather high.

I haven't figured out a solution yet. I thought about venting my hood (not the washer at the back bullshit) but I'm trying to stay away from that cause my car is a complete sleeper.

Do you have headstuds, you issue almost sounds like headlift.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the real problem...your intercooler is blocking too much air to your radiator.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with this or the fact that those Ebay rads seem to come with shitty rad caps...try a higher pressure cap and get more air flow to that rad

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mrbsponge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats up john!

i am NOT sure if it is air free, this go around i will put the front end on the lift and lift it up a bit when i re-do the system.

i am using the GE modified honda OEM 84mm gasket

i will have to look for some datalogs, if i cant find any, i will go make a few passes and see what i get, and i will try some distilled water as well, i have heard it makes a difference

thanks bro</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a log done buddy

 

I had similar issues after boosting my car so after a lot of crap headgasket milling head blah blah etc.. it turned out to be my radiator cap wasnt holding and looking closely there was a small seal that was missing. i bought a cheap one at Oreilly auto parts (junk) and it didnt vent any pressure and blew up the radiator hose and made the radiator leak. so i would get one from the dealer

that is the easiest cheapest thing to start with so i would do that. then recheck.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

above only 650cfm but looks alot like this one that pulls 1505cfm below
the more cfm the better. there are hundreds of fans to choose from. get the one that pulls the most cfm for the size that will fit.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had similar issues after boosting my car so after a lot of crap headgasket milling head blah blah etc.. it turned out to be my radiator cap wasnt holding and looking closely there was a small seal that was missing. i bought a cheap one at Oreilly auto parts (junk) and it didnt vent any pressure and blew up the radiator hose and made the radiator leak. so i would get one from the dealer

that is the easiest cheapest thing to start with so i would do that. then recheck.</TD></TR></TABLE>


thats exactly where i got my el cheapo nissan radiator cap too, cause the stupid POS ebay radiator didnt come with one, im gonna look into that as well, thanks


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abnaasefmb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

above only 650cfm but looks alot like this one that pulls 1505cfm below
the more cfm the better. there are hundreds of fans to choose from. get the one that pulls the most cfm for the size that will fit.

http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

</TD></TR></TABLE>

all i can fit is a 10inch fan in front of the radiator, do they got em in a 10 incheR?

 

all i can fit is a 10inch fan in front of the radiator, do they got em in a 10 incheR?[/QUOTE]


that is your problem the fan is too small. i had the same exact problem you did. replace my cheapy 12' slim fan to a fal fan and problem solve...put your hand by the fan to see if you get a lot of air going through? there was a big difference when i change my fan. solve my problem after spending so much money that i did not need to