So I decided to run my old GReddy TD05-18g on my LSVTEC. I want to run more boost. I have a Hondata S300 with the Hondata Boost Control Solenoid.

I have read that the TD05-18G INTERNAL wastegate actuator does not respond well at pressures over 14 psi. They used to make a wastegate actuator rated for 14psi, but it has been discontinued (greddy part number 11501610).

Question is is there a suitable replacement actuator I could use from a different setup, or will the Hondata Boost Control Solenoid handle the pressures over 14psi?

People has stated when using a manual boost controller on the greddy turbo, boost hits set pressure, but boost will continue to drop or flutter as the spring inside the actuator is soft and will open regardless of any kind of boost controller.

Or, would I be able to weld the wastegate door shut and rely only on the Hondata Boost Control Solenoid to regulate boost?

Please dont tell me to upgrade the turbo or get a new setup. Thats not what im looking to do.

 

that's very true. Since the actuator is a 6psi gate, it does not respond well over 12-14psi of boost pressure for that turbocharger. it gets rather unstable, as the door can't be held shut reliably.

The solenoid can't control anything over what the wastegate can physically handle, no matter what duty cycle you give the solenoid to operate.

There is a nice replacement from the Garrett camp, since the 18G is a Garrett/Mitsu hybrid turbocharger.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=WGT

I believe you can integrate this with your current bracket for the actuator that you have. If not, check ATP turbo under wastegates, and see if the GT28R replacement would work. (I can't remember off-hand, I haven't upgraded those in a while on the 18Gs I've had).
worse case is that you call them for that application

That depends upon the actuator. You're reading this from people who keep changing boost controllers and not the physical actuator to a higher pressure, and they are wondering why they can't control boost. They look only to the solenoid and not the actuator not understanding their symbiotic relationship.

Noooo. because you then have nothing to bleed boost with at all, unless you create a new pipe with an external gate. Boost Solenoids don't work that way.. you'll just blow up.

Hope this was of some assistance.


Please dont tell me to upgrade the turbo or get a new setup. Thats not what im looking to do.[/QUOTE]

 

Take the actuater off, weld shut the wastegate door/flap and run and external wastegate on the manifold.

 

Thanks for the info... ill look into the ATP and other garret gates...

 

That's really your best bet. The only other "Garrett" gate are those from the GT2860RS -9 high pressure actuators. not a lot of options in your request here.

 

Yea there is a Guy who has the same kit as you but he has the internal wastegate welded shut running external one with a ramhorn manifold with a t3 to t25 adapter to use it with the ramhorn. I believe he made 350 whp with 252 tq at 15-16 psi. Get with shodan he will square you away or you can find that thread on here and use some of his ideas. Hope everything goes well

 

Ok, change of plans.....

So a buddy of mine gave me a great deal on his barely used original Kiwi Turbo manifold. I tried doing research on this manifold, but there is little info still out there. I appears that I can retain power steering and air condition with this manifold, but hopefully someone can chime in to verify. It has a T4 flange with an external wastegate flange.

My questions are....

Are the 2 bolt wastgate flanges universal? Or are they wastegate specific? The diameter of the wastegate flange opening is 30mm, but the gasket it came with is 35mm. Are the differences between wastegate sizes based on the piping or opening?

In order to run my current TD05-18g turbo, I found a T4 to T25 adapter on ebay. Thus , needing to weld the internal wastegate flapper shut. If my goals are less than 400HP with a 2.5 in downpipe and 3 inch exhaust, will this turbo get me where I want to be?

The obvious other alternative is to get a t4 frame turbo and have a new downpipe fabricated. My criteria is to retain PS and AC. Wondering if a Precision 6262 will allow this clearance with this manifold.

Anyone with Kiwi knowledge please chime in...

thanks...

 

This is a T4 divided kiwi "style" manifold that looks of very shoddy material. Unless your friend can give some assurances that this came from a reliable source and not e-bay, you're wasting your time and money. You were better off sticking with your original GReddy manifold and internal gate than to go this route. This is going BACKWARDS.

 

How can you tell its not an original? Ive never seen a Kiwi manifold up close, I can barely even remember when they were open.

Any input on the wastegate opening? Is it a universal sized bolt pattern?

 

1) Original kiwis were never polished (I remember them from '98-as should you. you're senior enough )
2) Grade quality from the metal looks VERY suspect.
3)T4s were rare if ever made by the original group.

That is an older style 2 bolt Tial/Turbonetics/Deltagate Mark II flange.

Again. you're going backwards here. Use the money to upgrade acuator, alter the downpipe and retune for higher boost pressure.

 

If you need a quick solution go to Ace Hardware and grab a spring. I was able to really help out my boost spike problem when I ran a T25.

 

My 58 posts to your 10,000...lol

 

I meant your age (based upon your profile) not a post count

 

Anyone agree with this spring back up as a quick fix to the internal Watergate??

 

What do you think is in the higher pressure dashpots? Magic? It is a stiffer spring. The spring is a band aid and will degrade over time due to not being designed for the intended use. However, they will last for a decent amount of time. Just understand what is happening and why when/if you start to have issues. Although less precise and potential to ruin the actuator, others have crushed them with success.

 

Thanks. ...I'm no turbo guru so sorry if my simple question seemed laughably to you! I get the simple idea of how the turbo works & from what I've been looking up in regards to what's the most HP I can get out of a 18g TDO5. Im aware the spring is not a permanent solution but will it help a lot to get the flap(psi) from spiking if I run higher boost? Im a noob to turbo so im trying to understand the correct info. Im not looking to modify my kit by boring the turbo or welding the flap shut. I don't plan to run anymore than 10-11psi since my bottom end is stock. But any easy upgrades other than the turbine modification im willing to do. My kit already has an upgraded down pipe which is 2.5" to 3" straight pipe to 3" muffler. I appreciate your help & I can give you a list break down of what my setup will be & maybe you can tell me if I can reach 300hp?