I was thinking of going with a dsm turbo setup but with good fuel management, so later when I get more money I can upgrade to a t3/t4 turbo.
my setup so far:
Dsm 14b turbo+manifold+BOV+modified internal wastegate+O2 housing+ SMIC+Oil lines
Dsm 450cc injectors
Hondata s100 with boost
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Msd wires
Zex plugs
aem fuel rail
Fuel press gauge
Boost gauge
oil temp gauge
AFR gauge
I oly plan on running 5-7 psi with this setup
I think I can pull this off for under $2k, and im planning on building the engine (Darton sleeves JE pistons+rings, Crower rods), going with a t3/t4 and a FMIC later down the road
Any comments?
Anything I should add or anything you dont think is necesarry?
any comments would be appreciated
thanks
-Charlie

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking of going with a dsm turbo setup but with good fuel management, so later when I get more money I can upgrade to a t3/t4 turbo.
my setup so far:
Dsm 14b turbo+manifold+BOV+modified internal wastegate+O2 housing+ SMIC+Oil lines
Dsm 450cc injectors
Hondata s100 with boost
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Msd wires
Zex plugs
aem fuel rail
Fuel press gauge
Boost gauge
oil temp gauge
AFR gauge
I oly plan on running 5-7 psi with this setup
I think I can pull this off for under $2k, and im planning on building the engine (Darton sleeves JE pistons+rings, Crower rods), going with a t3/t4 and a FMIC later down the road
Any comments?
Anything I should add or anything you dont think is necesarry?
any comments would be appreciated
thanks
-Charlie</TD></TR></TABLE>

Really you should take the time to understand the real differences between the DSM turbos, their spool up characteristics, flanges, bolts and exhaust housings are totally different than the Garrett counterparts. You'll be changing manifolds to allow for an external wastegate, removing the O2 Housing, retuning twice (once for the DSM turbo to use, the other with the new garrett) and all the hoses, lines and parts.

Save your cash up a bit more, forget the DSM turbo setup (except for the injectors) and do it right. You're actually about half-way there. You can run the T3/T04E based setup w/o the sleeves until you're ready. Otherwise, you would be wasting time and effort for a half-*** setup.

 

what if i just kept the dsm setup for a while?

 

I would just shop around for good quality used parts and you shouldn't even go much over the 2k mark. Just be patient and wait for the good deals to pop up. I wouldn't even bother with the DSM setup. Why spend the money just to turn around and redo it.

 

well the main reason i considered the 14b turbo is because im building an autox/road race car and not a drag racing one, and since the 14bn is so small it spools up very quickly .
and I was talking about $2k for everything on that list
do you still think I could get all that a little over $2k maybe $2.5k without using Dsm parts?
thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4thgenlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking of going with a dsm turbo setup but with good fuel management, so later when I get more money I can upgrade to a t3/t4 turbo.
my setup so far:
Dsm 14b turbo+manifold+BOV+modified internal wastegate+O2 housing+ SMIC+Oil lines
Dsm 450cc injectors
Hondata s100 with boost
Walboro 255lph fuel pump
Msd wires
Zex plugs
aem fuel rail
Fuel press gauge
Boost gauge
oil temp gauge
AFR gauge
I oly plan on running 5-7 psi with this setup
I think I can pull this off for under $2k, and im planning on building the engine (Darton sleeves JE pistons+rings, Crower rods), going with a t3/t4 and a FMIC later down the road
Any comments?
Anything I should add or anything you dont think is necesarry?
any comments would be appreciated
thanks
-Charlie</TD></TR></TABLE>

a fuel rail is not needed, and some good ngk's gapped right are just as good as those zex plugs and a quarter of the price. otherwise this can be done for 1200-1500

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1zexxedcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

a fuel rail is not needed, and some good ngk's gapped right are just as good as those zex plugs and a quarter of the price. otherwise this can be done for 1200-1500 </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks , but how could I pull it off for under $1500?
my estimations are;
hondata s100 about $500
dsm turbo setup $400
Gauges $250
Fuel pump $100
Wires and plugs about $150
tuning $250
IC piping $100
thats about $1750

 

uberdata- 50 to get it burned
around 200 for a tuner to tune it for you
walbro fuel pump- 78 bucks(in sponser performance forum)

 

some people also say the oem plugs are the best, and thats what im using, dont spend that much money on the plugs cause the money can go elsewhere when ur installing. it.? did u forget u need new synthetic motor oil too???


Modified by 1zexxedcivic at 6:42 PM 9/7/2004

 

you can save tons of money with a little bit of knowledge...
Read up some and learn.. That's what im doing.. Im in here reading almost every topic. Just so i can absorb all of the knowledge possible.

 

thanks!
i was looking into Uberdata, but I suck at wireing, and general electrical stuff so It seems hard to put it all together!

 

Dont get the Zex plugs, they suck, you dont need the AEM fuel rail, and the AFR gauge is worthless. Other wise,

 

thanks!!!
I thought that the Air/Fuel Ratio was one of the necessary gauges?
Also should I get a FPR or an AFPR, neither?
thanks again!!

 

check out the link in my sig for my setup, i'm well under 2000 and it's hella strong.

 

I would go with stock wires and ngk plugs for sure. The stock ignition system is plenty efficent to run 10psi plus.

For 5-7psi you can even run stock fuel pump. The only 2 real necessary gauges are boost and some sort of air/fuel gauge to ensure your not running lean under boost conditions.

I would definately look into running uberdata instead of hondata. it's uber free!

If you are going to upgrade in the future I would definately get the front mount now. You dont want to have to have intercooler pipes bent 2 times.

What motor are you running? You may need a resistor box with the injectors depending on the car your running with the dsm's because theyare peak and hold and not saturated.

Good luck!

 

thanks!!
im not real sure if im gonna upgrade the turbo, but i mdefinetely gonna get an Fmic soon, if not right away.
this is going onto an h23 ,in a prelude

 

Nice car silverb18!!
clean and simple is the way to go!