Good tune for low boost b20, is it safe?
Hi everyone! I'm currently working on swapping a B20z2 (9.6:1 compression) into my Del Sol. It's gonna be naturally aspirated for now but when I get the funds for a good dyno tune I would like to go boost. If I do I'm likely gonna reuse an ebay turbo kit I had on my D16 that was in the Del Sol before it blew up. Had about 3-4 lbs on the wastegate spring. So here is some background about the motor and a few questions that I have...
The motor is a B20z2 out of a 1999 CR-V. I don't know the exact mileage on the motor, but I looked around inside the car I pulled from when I was getting the motor, (pulled in June 2021) and it had a service receipt for an oil change saying to come back at around 202k miles. So it is definitely a high mile motor. The upside is, I know that the car wasn't junked because of the motor, because it looked like it was in great condition for its age, and the car also had been rear-ended pretty badly, which likely totaled it.
When I got the motor I redid all the top end seals and gaskets (head gasket, valve stem seals, timing belt, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket etc...), and I'm also gonna redo the oil pan gasket as well. The cylinder head was resurfaced as well, so hopefully this helped restore the motor a little bit. With all that being said, I am aware that the length of the stroke on the B20 means that the cylinder walls are too thin, and also with the high mileage on the motor I've been warned by a few of my friends that it might not be a good idea to boost that motor. However I'm wondering if running the same amount of boost I had before (3-4 psi) on 93 with a good dyno tune would be safe for a motor like this? If so why, or why not? Thanks for reading y'all and take care.
The motor is a B20z2 out of a 1999 CR-V. I don't know the exact mileage on the motor, but I looked around inside the car I pulled from when I was getting the motor, (pulled in June 2021) and it had a service receipt for an oil change saying to come back at around 202k miles. So it is definitely a high mile motor. The upside is, I know that the car wasn't junked because of the motor, because it looked like it was in great condition for its age, and the car also had been rear-ended pretty badly, which likely totaled it.
When I got the motor I redid all the top end seals and gaskets (head gasket, valve stem seals, timing belt, valve cover gasket, water pump gasket etc...), and I'm also gonna redo the oil pan gasket as well. The cylinder head was resurfaced as well, so hopefully this helped restore the motor a little bit. With all that being said, I am aware that the length of the stroke on the B20 means that the cylinder walls are too thin, and also with the high mileage on the motor I've been warned by a few of my friends that it might not be a good idea to boost that motor. However I'm wondering if running the same amount of boost I had before (3-4 psi) on 93 with a good dyno tune would be safe for a motor like this? If so why, or why not? Thanks for reading y'all and take care.
Properly assembled and with a good tune you may be fine if you keep it under 10PSI and I'd honestly say 275WHP at the absolute maximum. And even then, I'd hesitate to rev that motor out too hard or too often.
Why not just save up a bit more and throw in some H beam rods and forged pistons? Even eBay H beams would be a step up from the stock. Just re hone and use the OEM bore on pistons. Doesn't solve the sleeve problem but IMO that'd give you a lot more insurance. You may as well considering everything else you're doing to the engine.
Also you'll obviously need a different turbo manifold than the one you had on the D16, but I'm assuming you've planned for that.
Edit: I'm not sure if their sale is still going on, but 4Piston a couple months ago was selling Callies rods + Wiseco piston combo packages for a good price.
Why not just save up a bit more and throw in some H beam rods and forged pistons? Even eBay H beams would be a step up from the stock. Just re hone and use the OEM bore on pistons. Doesn't solve the sleeve problem but IMO that'd give you a lot more insurance. You may as well considering everything else you're doing to the engine.
Also you'll obviously need a different turbo manifold than the one you had on the D16, but I'm assuming you've planned for that.
Edit: I'm not sure if their sale is still going on, but 4Piston a couple months ago was selling Callies rods + Wiseco piston combo packages for a good price.
A solid tune will take you a long ways on that motor. I did 277hp & 255trq on the B20b (8.8:1 Comp ratio) back in the day. T3/T4 turbo. Was running 15psi consistently for quite some time.
I revved mine to 7k pretty much all the time without any issues, although it did not have 200k on it. The sleeves are the first thing to go on those motors because of the monolithic design. I suspect with 200k, something else will go before the sleeves depending on the tune & who does it.
Get a decent clutch, make sure the t belt is solid. DSM 450 injectors and an upgraded fuel pump. Snag some freeware turning ROM setup. Yeeeewwww! A good time.
Whole lotta fun for not a lot of money. Those were the days.... Got it down to 12.6@115. 15 years ago that was pretty quick. Now everything runs 12s outta the box.lol
Best of luck.
I revved mine to 7k pretty much all the time without any issues, although it did not have 200k on it. The sleeves are the first thing to go on those motors because of the monolithic design. I suspect with 200k, something else will go before the sleeves depending on the tune & who does it.
Get a decent clutch, make sure the t belt is solid. DSM 450 injectors and an upgraded fuel pump. Snag some freeware turning ROM setup. Yeeeewwww! A good time.
Whole lotta fun for not a lot of money. Those were the days.... Got it down to 12.6@115. 15 years ago that was pretty quick. Now everything runs 12s outta the box.lol
Best of luck.
It allways depends on the turbo / manifold combo. If the engine is half good and youre not using a super short garbage flow turbo manifold 250 is safe and the car will be fast.
All these if you are not using a super small turbo. Anything with wheels 45mm+ is really safe on 93/e85 and 250 hp. A gt35 sized turbo with e85 will hit 300 hp without too much gamble.
If you try that 300 hp on a cast manifold with a 42mm turbo, well things aint gonna go well.
All these if you are not using a super small turbo. Anything with wheels 45mm+ is really safe on 93/e85 and 250 hp. A gt35 sized turbo with e85 will hit 300 hp without too much gamble.
If you try that 300 hp on a cast manifold with a 42mm turbo, well things aint gonna go well.
Gt28 on a b20v was fun.
300whp max rpm of 72-7500 and it was dead reliable. I rarely changed the oil and finally spun a bearing because i forgot to check the oil level before a track night.
300whp max rpm of 72-7500 and it was dead reliable. I rarely changed the oil and finally spun a bearing because i forgot to check the oil level before a track night.
It allways depends on the turbo / manifold combo. If the engine is half good and youre not using a super short garbage flow turbo manifold 250 is safe and the car will be fast.
All these if you are not using a super small turbo. Anything with wheels 45mm+ is really safe on 93/e85 and 250 hp. A gt35 sized turbo with e85 will hit 300 hp without too much gamble.
If you try that 300 hp on a cast manifold with a 42mm turbo, well things aint gonna go well.
All these if you are not using a super small turbo. Anything with wheels 45mm+ is really safe on 93/e85 and 250 hp. A gt35 sized turbo with e85 will hit 300 hp without too much gamble.
If you try that 300 hp on a cast manifold with a 42mm turbo, well things aint gonna go well.
In any case, an old and tired B20 engine is definitely far from the best candidate for a turbo build. Even a B18B would be a better bet.
Let us know when or if you proceed with the car, OP. Best of luck.
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