eg:R

I have the gm sensor calibration sheet. On the s300 do I make all three setting on the iat temp the same? I notice there is a light, medium and heavy load temp setting

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

There is no way to calibrate non honda sensors on a Honda ecu base tuning software. There is not much of a reason to run a quicker responding intake temp sensor. What needs to be done is put the sensor in the charge pipe 5-8 inches from the throtttlebody. This will give you non-heat soaked readings and the sensor will actually respond to air charge temp changes. Also you can take it one step further and shave off the plastic from the oem sensor to expose the internals and it will respond much faster.

eg:R

Yes , I did this conversion for the heat soak reason and I place it on the charge pipe. Will the readings be off without not being able to change the air temp compensation correction percentage.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I've converted many OEM sensors to an open junction. response times goes from seconds to milliseconds. you have to be careful though, the stock thermocouple junction is very fragile... one wrong razor blade stroke and the sensor is destroyed.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Honestly you don't even need to touch the sensor. Just out a stock sensor in the charge pipe air temp compensation tables on s300 and Neptune don't do a whole lot of changing on the tune if the tune is good.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea on Honda based ecu tuning software there isn't much point. on a standalone however things are a bit different and they can definitely benefit from a sensor that rapidly responds to temp changes. especially if the weather is to one extreme or the other from when it was tuned.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Although I do feel like an idiot...

I thought my GM IAT sensor was closed junction so I cut the cage off to modify it to open junction only to find out it was in fact an OEM open junction sensor. Derp

eg:R

K, so I should be good for a dyno tune without any sitting changes?getting tune soon

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You should be fine.

the bigger issue with the OEM sensor is heat soak, it will heat soak regardless of where it's located, heatsoak will be worse in the intake manifold though.

the problem is how the OEM sensor is made. the sensing thermocouple junction is under multiple layers of coatings.

there's a gray soft rubber layer immediately around the junction, followed by a harder, slightly thick black layer, then another soft layer of grey rubber (sometimes the colors differ between sensors but the number of and type of layers remains the same)

once these layers heatsoak it's hard to get the heat out of them. as a result the readings will be off regardless of placement and these layers basically insulate the sensor resulting in very delayed and inaccurate temperature readings.

what would help is using a thermally isolating gasket between the intake and head, between the throttle body and manifold, then use a similar material between the IAT sensor and it's mount. this well help isolate these parts from any heat transfer from the head.

if you have the OEM 2 bolt style IAT sensor that goes in the intake manifold then you'll have a hard time finding a way to mount it on the charge pipe. a company does make a billet aluminum mount you weld to the piping for the 2 bolt sensor, or you can make you're own and weld it on.

the easier method is to get the threaded style OEM IAT off of a crv with a b20. Just like the GM unit the body is threaded which means you can simply weld a threaded fitting to the charge pipe. it's a common pipe thread so you can find a fitting to weld on easily.

what material is your piping? you'll have to order an aluminum fitting online since most hardware/home improvement stores don't stock aluminum fittings. they do however stock steel/iron fittings that you could use if your piping is stainless steel or mild steel.

eg:R

I have aluminum piping. I have tap the gm iat onto the piping. A round 1/2' thick aluminum plates around the size of a quarter was weld on to the piping before it was
Tap due to the piping being to thin For rethread.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I don't remember if the GM IAT sensor and Honda threaded IAT sensor share the same thread diameter and pitch.

Natural Aspirations

I have yet to see a threaded honda IAT sensor.

cruizinmax

iTrader: (2)

You should look at a b20 crv then.

Natural Aspirations

92cxturbo

That's what I used for my setup. I welded a bung in the charge pipe, and put in the threaded b20 iat sensor. Seems to work better then having the iat on the IM. Datalog show the iat temps to be alittle more accurate.

92cxturbo

I just want to repeat this because it seems like you are still unclear about this. You CANNOT use the gm iat with a honda ecu.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea the b20b powered crvs used a threaded GM "style" IAT sensor. I think they were on OBD1 and OBD2 models, can't remember exactly.

surprisingly not a lot of people know about the threaded body Honda IAT sensor. you'd figure more Honda ecu based builds would use that sensor due to greater flexibility in mounting solutions

twkdCD595

Factory Accord is thread in as well. Picture from when I was in the process of shaving the material off to expose the junction. OEM F series Accord IAT.

KevinEF7

Mine came off an accord aswell

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

My 1990 f22a1 accord has the 2 screw OBD1 civic/integra IAT sensor

HiProfile

37880-P0A-A02

Rare indeed, only a couple MILLION produced for Accord, CR-V, Pilot, and Odyssey's. It uses a course M12x1.5 thread pitch, most Honda M12's are 1.25 pitch. Most people who "know Hondas" only know b-series or h-series.


Any more pics of that sensor mod, twkdCD595??