If the motor is tuned right it and it should run wide open in any gear. There is more stress on the engine in the higher gears mainly because of staying in boost longer, If the intercooler, radiater and fuel pump can keep up it should be fine.

If you going to take your cars to the track you will need 4th gear and some will need 5th, if anything run it a little richer .

 

damn bro... sorry to hear that...

 

I run all the way through 4th and into 5th when I go to the track. I usually spend alot of time out there during the summers. 4th gear pulls don't kill properly tuned cars...

 

what i wanna know is how you street tune a system like the aem ems? Is a pretty precise engine managment that should be tuned on the dyno. How would you get your ignition set up on that on a street tune. I think tunning might be the culprit here. Street tune is great if your low on cash and just need to daily drive your car after you boost it but if your gonna beat up on it till 4th gear then I think that it should really be cleaned up on the dyno. Just My .02

 

I have had over 15+ pulls on the dyno redlining 4th gear, not to mention all the highway fun and no problems.

Talk to your tuner cause that's your problem

 

who tuned it and was it on a dyno to be tuned?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i wanna know is how you street tune a system like the aem ems? Is a pretty precise engine managment that should be tuned on the dyno. How would you get your ignition set up on that on a street tune. I think tunning might be the culprit here. Street tune is great if your low on cash and just need to daily drive your car after you boost it but if your gonna beat up on it till 4th gear then I think that it should really be cleaned up on the dyno. Just My .02</TD></TR></TABLE>

well I'm thinking street tune is MORE precise then on a dyno... assuming little or no wheel spin, it's actual load. the dyno is simulated load... so wouldn't street tune be more accurate?

dyno would be more accurate for top end tuning... but thats only because your not going 100+mph down the street while trying to tweak your setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dyno would be more accurate for top end tuning... but thats only because your not going 100+mph down the street while trying to tweak your setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah but thats the point where people blow up their ****

 

Was your car tuned????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fipracing_com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Was your car tuned????</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok to clear this up for everyone the car was street tuned at 11.5:1 a/f conservative timing... Street tuned on an aem ems.

Let's just say he knows what he's doing enough to get torque freaks vouch.

Does anyone know what the problem could be, I would like to get some ******* usefull responses for ***** sake. My guess is bad blow by pressurized the block and blew out a crank seal. anyone else agree to my theory? Oh it was on a 4.5 psi spring creeping to 9psi right after vtec for some ******* reason

onefab h series mani
tial 38mm on 4.5 psi spring vacume line from wastegate directly to turbo
3" open dp
sc-61 turbo


oh yeah compression test results where this before I turbo'd it
180 180 168 180
and the motor had 140k miles on it , yeah I knew I was gonna blow it it was just a matter of when and would I be close to home. I did'nt really care about this motor anyway I wanted to work the kinks out of my turbo setup on this pyle.

 

street tunning isn't very precise as far as the ignition timing and top end. Especially for a unit like the AEM one. why spend all that money on a set up and engine managment and not spend the extra time to have it dyno tuned. Sure the engine is gonna run a bit leaner on the street then the dyno but that can be adjusted after dyno tunning.

 

sounds like a bad tune to me. In my opinion at 11.5:1 comp youre a/f needs to be pretty spot on especially when youre boost is creeping. Its hard to tune for boost creep. Id like to see a dyno sheet that shows your a/f on a decent pull. do you even know what youre af was at? you say conservative but that really doesnt mean much. numbers foo!

 

I belive he said that during the pull his af was reading 11:1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm at the point now where blowing a motor is almost funny...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, I feel that.

 

you can tune timing via knock sensor. add timing till it knocks and then back off.

 

the timing is set conservitavely. There was no detonation on the motor, seriously guys it was'nt because of the tune it was tuned under boost comp and a complex device like the aem ems needs to be tuned on the street at some point. Timing and vtec tuning needs a dyno for the best power otherwise street tuning will do just fine.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">street tunning isn't very precise as far as the ignition timing and top end. Especially for a unit like the AEM one. why spend all that money on a set up and engine managment and not spend the extra time to have it dyno tuned. Sure the engine is gonna run a bit leaner on the street then the dyno but that can be adjusted after dyno tunning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to get really mean so just bear with me. God damn I wish people that did'nt know what they where talking about would not post. I have a prelude that has 140k miles on it, my official goal is 500whp. So in my eyes I figure I'm going to build the turbo kit first and work all the misshaps out on this motor rather than a 6k benson block and port flow head. Now rather than spend the 900$ to get a 140k motor that comps out at 180 180 168 and 180 that will blow no matter what in the very near future I use my brain and get a street tune from a trusted tuner. Now seriously it was'nt the tune if anything it was just a tired motor and who's to say that anything in the motor was toasted. a/f during the pulls was low 11's but the weather was very cold and the car pulled like hell

Can someone please make a reasonably intelligent comment on what the beleive happened and not what caused it . oil on the timing cover and all over around the crank side. no oil on passenger side no oil in motor anymore all drained out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys think I blew up???</TD></TR></TABLE>

well it seems as though you awnsered your own question


Modified by Mr. Roboto at 1:51 PM 2/16/2005


Modified by Mr. Roboto at 1:52 PM 2/16/2005

 

well for me being someone who doesn't know anything apparently. it's funny how many other people seem to say it was the tune too. I guess were all idiots here and you might know it all so answer your own questions. Makes alot of sence to spend 7g's on a turbo kit, and throw it on a motor you think is tired and then act surprised that it blew a seal. If your going to ask a question then complain when you get an answer from someone then does ask a dam thing and fix it yourself. I've seen alot of people throw boost on a sohc with 150,000 miles and get a good tune and run strong dam good.

 

Would i get blasted if I said, "IT WAS THE TUNE"!

 

Dam! You don't know anything. ^^^ It had to have been the flux compasiter

 

Yes, the low headlight fluid caused the muffler bearings to seize and caused an over flow of pressure in the atomic core...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys think I blew up???</TD></TR></TABLE>Mine was the damn crank was unbalanced..causing my bearings to wear out prematurely and also my oil pump seal started to leak like a *****. Damn!! Should've balanced it from the beginning. One more thing, don't ever buy that piece of crap OEM HOnda CTR single drive pulley. I believe that damn thing caused both my oil pumps to go out (LS and ITR).

 

have you done a leakdown and compression check yet.

that will tell if you did any harm..

if you can see where your seal poped out. i dont know what your questions is. replace the seal and get back on the road.

platinum

 

How much PSI were you running under boost ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well for me being someone who doesn't know anything apparently. it's funny how many other people seem to say it was the tune too. I guess were all idiots here and you might know it all so answer your own questions. Makes alot of sence to spend 7g's on a turbo kit, and throw it on a motor you think is tired and then act surprised that it blew a seal. If your going to ask a question then complain when you get an answer from someone then does ask a dam thing and fix it yourself. I've seen alot of people throw boost on a sohc with 150,000 miles and get a good tune and run strong dam good. </TD></TR></TABLE>

aww geez, alright man I'll get really technical, did I ******* ask why the motor blew?? no so shut the **** up about the why I don't really care what everyone thinks about the tune because my plx wideband read 11 flat and there was no audible detonation. Great you all say it was the tune that blew the motor well what the **** did it blow. That is the question

No leak down and compression test yet, I'm thinking I will probably just pull the motor because it's tired and I want a new one anyways I was just curious what your inputs would be on the cause of oil all down the driver side where the pullies and crank are. Thanks to a few people for actually trying to help me