ok well the 4th time I've driven my car now under boost and it's gone. I took it out for a quick spin tonight and after a long pull in 4th I slowed down and pulled into my driveway, oil light started blinking I was like ****. It's gone, no audible sounds of knocking or anything. I got home pulled into the garage and slid an oil pan under it because of the crazy amount of oil draining out of the bottom of the motor. It's all over the plastic timing belt sheild and dripping down off of my control arm. I'm hoping to god it's a crank seal. After physicaly looking it over there is no oil anywhere on the motor it's just on the driver side near the crank's and cam's.


Modified by c61lude at 8:52 PM 2/15/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok well the 4th time I've driven my car now under boost and it's gone. I took it out for a quick spin tonight and after a long pull in 4th I slowed down and pulled into my driveway, oil light started blinking I was like ****. It's gone, no audible sounds of knocking or anything. I got home pulled into the garage and slid an oil pan under it because of the crazy amount of oil draining out of the bottom of the motor. It's all over the plastic timing belt sheild and dripping down off of my control arm. I'm hoping to god it's a crank seal. After physicaly looking it over there is no oil anywhere on the motor it's just on the driver side near the crank's and cam's. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Make that the 5th motor this week that has been blown up due to a 4th gear pull, I am starting to see a trend. Good luck with the build up.

(Make sure it is blown, check compression, take off the head, etc..)

 

lol, that's EXACTLY how I blew my first motor. . . now I keep it under 110mph (don't redline 4th) lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol, that's EXACTLY how I blew my first motor. . . now I keep it under 110mph (don't redline 4th) lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

I tell people that everyday, they don't understand the heat that gets generated when doing it for that long on the street.. just doesn't make too much sense to me.

( I know properly tuned and all that, it "should" be fine, but way to many go like that to risk it)

 

i do 4th gear pulls in all the cars i tune. if its properly tuned, it will be fine. if not, then obviously you will have failure

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Make that the 5th motor this week that has been blown up due to a 4th gear pull, I am starting to see a trend. Good luck with the build up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No ****! I have seen these threads too I really really really never hit boost for more then 5-8 seconds or so when in 4th or 5th gear. It's just so damaging to the engine.

How about this theory? (I just came up with ti...I might totally be wrong!)

Aside from heat build up...can it be the fact that you don't go up the revs as fast in 4th and 5th then in 1st or 2nd. The timing is adjusted for the revs to move quite fsat and since they don't it actaully sort of advances the timing if that makes any sense....you get it since the pistons don't move faster and faster copared to 1st and 2nd gears. could this also be a factor in why these engines are blowing up in a highway pull

 

what you said right there.. pretty mcuh equals more heat. But, Mase you are right, and I did mention that, a properly tuned car can handle it, it is just those that always blow are in 4th gear pulls.

 

what do you guys think I blew up???

 

my friend with a stock LS teg blew his motor...blew his rings...blew a lot of piston debris...and motor started smoking like crazy...after doing a 5th gear pull cuz he said he attempted to max out his car.

 

As much as you might hate to admit it, the Honda engine just has weak ringlands. High boost = no PCV, add that to high pressure and high heat, and those thin ringlands go bye-bye.
.

 

does it dump oil? i know on the accords f22 etc they always pop out balance shaft seals and it dumps oil all over...pull off your timing covers and take a look..

 

do you have an engine management like hondata? was it tuned or were you running a base map? or was it just an FMU?

now is your chance to really think about what you want to do... either walk away from boost now, or be prepared to spend LOTS of money and effort to join the rest of us...

I'm at the point now where blowing a motor is almost funny...

 

4th gear owned my last motor too.. I ran it untuned (uberdata tuned by ear) map for 25k miles or so... but that last pull... it was just running too good. I was open DP for the first time, and it was 20 degrees out. It leaned out. Melted a piston.

Matt

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have an engine management like hondata? was it tuned or were you running a base map? or was it just an FMU?

now is your chance to really think about what you want to do... either walk away from boost now, or be prepared to spend LOTS of money and effort to join the rest of us...

I'm at the point now where blowing a motor is almost funny...</TD></TR></TABLE>

my setup is worth over 7g's.

Full street tuned
aem pems 30-1020
rc 750's
etc etc etc... the list is huge but my fuel and my wideband was reading 11 flat when I was doing the runs. I poped the valve cover off and there are no signs of radiator fluid so I'm thinkin the head gasket is still intact. I popped the driver side wheel off and looked in and the seal from the plastic cover over the crank is popped out. I'm almost positive it is a crank seal or possibly my oil pump. THere was no boom and no detonation so I'm thinking I'm still in the clear and that crank seal just popped out to remind me to do the h23 manual tensioner on my **** auto tensioned h22a4

 

nice man! sounds like you might be ok

sorry I thought you were one of those first time boosting turbo kit on stock motor type of dudes, lol. although I WISH I only sank $7k into my car

 

What? How the hell are we supposed to do street tuning then. If some one is running on street tires with lets say 350+hp they might not have enough traction in third to floor it, so we can't get traction in gear 1, 2 and 3 and we cant use 4th cuz the car might blow up? That's ridiculous! My car was street tuned by doing 4th gear pulls, I have no idea how many 4th gear pulls I have made since then, and I have no problems at all.

 

put oil in it and start at her up. if there is a leak it will leak at idle. check all the seal on that side of the block cam seals oil pan crank seal and the honda bond around the oil pump

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by c61lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my setup is worth over 7g's.

Full street tuned
aem pems 30-1020
rc 750's
etc etc etc... the list is huge but my fuel and my wideband was reading 11 flat when I was doing the runs. I poped the valve cover off and there are no signs of radiator fluid so I'm thinkin the head gasket is still intact. I popped the driver side wheel off and looked in and the seal from the plastic cover over the crank is popped out. I'm almost positive it is a crank seal or possibly my oil pump. THere was no boom and no detonation so I'm thinking I'm still in the clear and that crank seal just popped out to remind me to do the h23 manual tensioner on my **** auto tensioned h22a4 </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha my friend has problems with that auto tensioner on his new h22. He ended up shredding a timing belt .

 

Sorry good luck


Modified by dan_w_82 at 12:56 AM 2/16/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan_w_82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm glad I read this topic....I'm getting ready to install my turbonetics t3/t4 with stock internals starting at 7psi. I just ordered the zeitronix wideband and my Uberdata kit Sunday night. Will it be safe for me to boost in 4th or 5th gear without datalogging? I will have my basemap and tune to the Wideband. "Street tuned"

obd1 B18b
turbonetics t3/t4 turbo
tial 38mm wastegate
RFL BOV
BMC LOG Manifold
Boost controller
Turbo timer
Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband
Uberdata 1.66 with no datalogging "for the time being till I get a laptop that works"

Just incase my setup makes a difference or not I posted it cause normally thats the first thing people ask. </TD></TR></TABLE>

THREAD JACK!

Don't datalog in 4th until you get all the A/F's right and are doing fine in 3rd. Any more questions/thread jacks take them to Uberdata forums

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dan_w_82 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm glad I read this topic....I'm getting ready to install my turbonetics t3/t4 with stock internals starting at 7psi. I just ordered the zeitronix wideband and my Uberdata kit Sunday night. Will it be safe for me to boost in 4th or 5th gear without datalogging? I will have my basemap and tune to the Wideband. "Street tuned"

obd1 B18b
turbonetics t3/t4 turbo
tial 38mm wastegate
RFL BOV
BMC LOG Manifold
Boost controller
Turbo timer
Zeitronix ZT-2 wideband
Uberdata 1.66 with no datalogging "for the time being till I get a laptop that works"

Just incase my setup makes a difference or not I posted it cause normally thats the first thing people ask. </TD></TR></TABLE>

don't wanna be a ***** but let's try to stay on topic here. Thanks

 

Yep very true sorry about that I just thougth I could throw in a lil something since it's on topic about 4th gear BLOW UPS. No nead to get upset sorry didn't realize it till after I posted. It's deleted now. Thanks for letting me know and good luck.

Ohh and I thought it would be a H-T post since it's mainly about the boost/honda motors blowing up since it happens with many types of managements. Just a thought let me know bfore I post and it should be somewhere else..........


Modified by dan_w_82 at 1:08 AM 2/16/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leadfoot78 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we can't get traction in gear 1, 2 and 3 and we cant use 4th cuz the car might blow up? That's ridiculous!</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do 4th gear pulls in all the cars i tune. if its properly tuned, it will be fine. if not, then obviously you will have failure</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup always tune it in 4th since it is 1:1 or closest to 1:1 gear ratio, more load than 3rd is good so it is safe unless you plan on ending the 1/4 mile in third gear.

 

sometimes I realy wounder where people come up with this shiaat.

I hit 7800-9000 rpm in 4th on the track easy...besides that in a top speed contest I rolled to 8600 rpm in 5th on 9psi on a stock internal B18C ITR....11.5:1 baby!

but then again alot of people dont have the extensive tunning that I have had on my hondata/wideband setup.

and I already know...Im using my stock compression as an experiment. once the ringlands go Ill do my rebuild. Its all about the tune when it comes to FI