So after battling this solid cel problem I decided to take my spare ecu and hook it up to see if the cel would stay on if I turned the igniton on. It's just a stock p05 ecu so I didn't start the car at all.
I turned the ignition on and the cel came on and stayed on. I turned the key a few times and the same thing...When I unplugged the ecu I saw some smoke from where the plugs were and could smell something burnt (electronic burnt smell)...
I opend up the ecu and there was a little bit of smoke, the horrible smell but couldn't see anything visibly burnt....So now i'm thinking that my orignial ecu is fried.
That would explain the poor idle, super rich exhaust and the cel, but i don't think my car would even idle if the ecu was toast...I'm running 750cc injectors so they would just flood the engine wouldn't they?
Anyways now I have to look into why my ecu would be burning up when I turn the ignition on....any idea's where to start? I hate electrical problems...How do I find out if my ecu is ok? Thanks for any help....

 

u probably fried the IAT sensor cuz u swaped the plug connection for the IAT sensor and the purge soleniod i nthe engine bay.

also did u check to see what code it is throwing or is it a solid cel?

 

It's a solid check engine light so I am unable to pull a code.


so by swapping those plugs it would cause this? It would cause the ecu to smell burnt and smoke (the p05 smoked) the p72 just smells a little burned.
Do you happen to know the wire colors of each plug so I can verify if I have them swapped? Thanks

 

Take the lid off the ecu and take a picture of the top and bottom of the ecu. Near the ECU plugs.

 

I will go do that....

 

Oh and update:
The AIT and purge plugs were swapped. I had them hooked up wrong.
I don't have a purge solenoid....I have the plug but no solenoid.
I removed the plug from the AIT sensor and the cel went off I havent started the car yet.
I swapped the AIT sensor from another motor that I have and hooked the plug back up and the cel comes back on solid again???So i'm thinking maybe the wiring for that sensor is shorting out?????(idea's??)...
I did however pull a code when the cel went off.
it would flash then pause 5 seconds, flash, pause 5 seconds ....So would that be a code 10 IAT sensor since it was unplugged?
Thanks for the help so far, i'm making progress...

 

Yep. The problem was that plug.

 

This is your problem.

 

Your ait sensor is cooked well done....
Get another ait sensor & plug it into the actual ait plug

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is your problem.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

So what do I do now? How can I get this fixed?

 

I believe that is the a transitor that goes to the purge control stuff that you don't even have hooked up. You should be ok with just plugging in a new IAT sensor and going at it. You could also just desolder that burnt piece and put a new one in if the traces underneath it are still in tact.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe that is the a transitor that goes to the purge control stuff that you don't even have hooked up. You should be ok with just plugging in a new IAT sensor and going at it. You could also just desolder that burnt piece and put a new one in if the traces underneath it are still in tact.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where would I get a new transistor?
I tried two sensors from my old motors, each time I plugged the new sensor in it would cause a solid cel light. If I left it unplugged it would do the flash sequence 1 long flash with about a 5 second pause and repeat...Thanks for your help so far..

 

You would get a new transistor from a spare board or a parts board.

 

I did that once, plug the purge on the iat. I dont think its a big deal if you dont use the purge solenoid. Had my ecu with that burned transistor for 3 years now without any problems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe that is the a transitor that goes to the purge control stuff that you don't even have hooked up. You should be ok with just plugging in a new IAT sensor and going at it. You could also just desolder that burnt piece and put a new one in if the traces underneath it are still in tact.</TD></TR></TABLE>

IME, there's a 50% chance of ECU fuckage beyond the transistor. I have seen a few that popped the trans and still worked fine, but those are rarities.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your ait sensor is cooked well done....
Get another ait sensor & plug it into the actual ait plug
</TD></TR></TABLE>

IAT, you mean? It doesn't always fry the IAT. In fact, every time I've pulled a burnt up IAT out, there was no ECU damage. Not saying it doesn't happen, but one or the other usually goes out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16ahybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where would I get a new transistor?
I tried two sensors from my old motors, each time I plugged the new sensor in it would cause a solid cel light. If I left it unplugged it would do the flash sequence 1 long flash with about a 5 second pause and repeat...Thanks for your help so far..</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is because the two ECUs you have to test with are toasty. Fix, or replace.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

IME, there's a 50% chance of ECU fuckage beyond the transistor. I have seen a few that popped the trans and still worked fine, but those are rarities.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with that. There is usually pretty obvious ECU fuckage after you pull her out.

 

So probably my best option is to find a socketed ecu to swap my hondata stuff over too?
Whats all involved in doing that? I wish I learned this when I bought the hondata so I would know all this already.....
Is it as simple as removing the hondata s100 chip and plugging it into another ecu that's already socketed or socketing a ecu myself???
I only have the s100 version...
I would rather do what I need to get this running, as of right now i'm unable to proceed with the car until I get it running good..thanks so much for your guys help it's one thing I can cross off my list of concern's....

 

i have seen the traces burnt completely up, a buddy of mine ran new wire for the traces and and some other cool stuff i cant remember and it worked again.