DCRB

After rollin with some dsm friends for the past year or so I've got the bug for boost.

It's my first ever build, so i'm wanting to start small, by small i mean back yard home made set up using dsm parts.

I've done some searching but haven't found too much on my set up, but will search more.

Here's what I want to do for now:

14b turbo @ 8psi stock waste gate
hf/std manifold w adapter plate
or
some cast manifold that is ac compatible
ebay (godspeed?) inter cooler "kit" (2.5" piping i'm thinking)
DSM 1g BOV
DSM 450's
Walbro 255 w adjustable fpr
Wide band o2 sensor for tuning

What my current set up is:

stock z6 head (resurfaced at least once)
stock a6 block (with stock bore)
z6 head gasket
arp head studs
skunk2 intake manifold w obd0 ls throttle body
chipped p28 on crome
ebay header.
stock replacement clutch
supposed lx cable trans but i have my doubts, it feels the same as my old si trans.
aprox 25k on motor, rebuilt almost 2 years ago in my garage, runs like a champ, has good compression across the board

For a map sensor, will a GM 3bar map sensor? or should i swap to an obd1 tb and get a hondata 4 bar direct bolt on map sensor?

Not sure about exhaust either, I'm going to build another d for bigger numbers (rods/pistons/cam/bigger turbo/etc.) so should I go with a 3" exhaust now? or get a 2.5"... I currently have a 2.25" stock ef9 exhaust on my sedan.

since i'm using stock internals, should i install a knock sensor as well to help prevent spark knock (pinging)?

with a good tune will I be able to reliably daily drive this set up? I'm not looking for big numbers yet, if i get 200 hp i'm happy with this motor, as i want to get used to driving a boosted car as its a total different experience from an na car.

thanks for the advice!

oh yeah the car is a 90 civic lx sedan, if it matters. wont be using ps although i'd LIKE to be able to rock ac again (currently not installed)

nealnanoHX

Ok first off I would look at a different turbo than the 14G. That turbo was way under sized for the 4g63 motor and is not very efficient over 15-18psi. If you want to use a DSM turbo on your D16 I would go with the a larger 16G, boost wont come on so early and it will make more power. Your stock D16 will be good for about 250-280whp. GM 3 bar is fine, I would get a better BOV and have a mani made for the turbo you choose. You will also want to upgrade the clutch as a stock on will not hold long. A 255LPH fuel pump, DSM 450CC injectors and a good tune and you are good to DD the car.

crvtectim

For 8 psi, your stock map sensor will be fine. Don't worry with the knock sensor because more than likely your tuner would disable that anyways if it were present. You should get a wideband O2 with a gauge so you can monitor afrs. And I agree with nealnanoHX on choosing a better turbo. You will also be fine to run 3" exhaust now for your future upgrades.

Blaze45

First off, I am glad that you have a desired goal of what you want to do with the car. Most people just do and don't think of and end result let alone budget. The 14B is a decent turbo to hit 200hp with on your setup. The only thing about this turbo is compressor discharge tube will not exactly fit well with power steering under the hood as you mentioned you would like to keep. You could have some nasty bends welded to the factor J pipe but that is up to you really.

Pertaining to the knock sensor, it is important to make sure that you have something that can monitor knock/det. The factory knock sensor with the Honda community doesn't seem to be widely used while the DSM community seems to rely on them heavily. Some people use det cans https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/det-cans-1555006/ others read plugs http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html if you are tuning on a dyno or the street these are both very very valuable tools/skills that can keep your engine running for the duration of your use for it. A wideband is a wise choice. Most widebands come with a bosch sensor but if you really plan on using it for an extended period of time it is worth picking up an wideband unit that runs an NTK sensor. From what I can tell they last longer and may be a bit more accurate. Perhaps somebody with more experience here can chime in.

Depending on how hard you are on the clutch, you may need to replace it with something that can handle the trq. Once again this really depends on the condition of the one in there and how hard you are on it on a daily basis. Action, ACT, Clutchmasters...

It has been said that the stock Honda MAP is good to 11psi, I think you can just stick with that if you don't plan on boosting much over 11-12psi. You don't need an adjustable FPR.

You may want to look into a traction bar to eliminate wheel hop as well as some decently strong motor mounts to keep things from moving around. These were 2 mod's that

3in exhaust is a good idea since you plain on upgrading but just make sure for now that your downpipe is smooth flowing and has no sharp bends. This really hinders spool as well as increases exhaust gas temps and back pressure which can toast your engine and rob you of power depending on how severe the bends are. Ask me how I know.

DCRB

thanks for the response.

its actually ac that i'd like to keep, however i suppose i can live with 460 (4 windows down 60 on the freeway haha). i've already blown up my power steering rack from vtakin too much, guess the 20 year old pump didn't like seein 7500 daily... so i'm swapping in a manual rack

my clutch is a stock replacement "valeo" clutch from my local parts store with my stock 20 year old flywheel... ya not a good combo but i was on a budget. i don't drive hard like power shifting and bangin gears like i GOTTA win each race (lolz) i just drive normal n hit the whole rpm range of my motor.

I don't have a problem rocking a 16g, i figured that would be a good turbo so i can keep good in town mpgs butone of my dsm buddies is looking to upgrade to an evo 16g and he's currently rocking a small 16g from a galant vr4 so i'd swoop that up from him, i figured 14b though just because they're cheaper (80 avg price vs 200 avg price around here).

traction bar is a must, i'm looking at the inovative ones since they're lowered car friendly and don't hang low

Blaze45

If you loop the PS line with a breather you don't need to swap in a manual rack. I personally have never messed with flywheels because they are weighted for the engine from the factory and if you plan on keeping the motor together for a long period of time and you go with one that weighs less, I would imagine that the harmonics of the engine would change instigating the need for some sort of balance...?

I asked this question in the NA forum with no response really. You can go lighter if you want but a resurface on the flywheel with a different clutch is always a good bet. It really depends on the motor and what you are going to do with it. Sounds like you are off to a good start. Good luck.

A BeastyDC4

log, t3to4e 50 trim 3"dp, 3" exhaust, decent charge pipes and intercooler done deal. good for daily and plenty of potential for growth