<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the more i thought about it today, the more i was amazed about these. think about how much weight and strain must be put on the outer most bearings on the dynapacks. between supporting the weight of the car, and turning at 100+ mph, its amazing they can hold up. just a thought, patiently awaitning the vids.
Landon</TD></TR></TABLE>

Each hub can support around 1000lbs each. Most of the cars I will have on the dyno will weight about 25-50% less than the maximum rating. After speaking to the dynapack rep that came to give me training seminar, the machines are way over engineered. My machine is rated for 800whp, but it can easily do alot more than that. They engineer them with a high factor of safety to ensure zero problems/issues with them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok since it seems liek theres some knowledgable dyno people in here.
anyone know if i can use our smog dyno to do part throttle tuning? definatly not full throtel cuz it doesnt use water brakes it uses like pads basically. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Its possible to be able to use the dyno for partial throttle tuning. If it can provide adjustable loading, or hold the engine at a fixed rpm you can manipulate the throttle to vary rpm or loading in either case. If you can do that, you can tune partial throttle "steady state" tuning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pip9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, nice jeff. So does that mean my car going to be tuned on this on sat? or are we still going down to reading? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, i will be using my own dyno from this point on. I will PM you after this post. After doing tuning this afternoon on the dynapack, I'll never go back to a roller dyno again.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

badass jeff. i cant wait for you to be one of the countrys best known tuners!

ill be sure to send everyone within 10 hours drive to you</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Geoff! If you are in NJ again, stop by the shop and check things out. The full race guys are always welcome (all 11 of them ).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lexvdub1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey jeff this is the hatch that you'll see on the 19th of june

car and engine bay without the drag 3

turn those machines on, i'll be there bright and early
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cool, cant wait to have you at the shop!

 

what are your going rates for tuning? I need to get my Si tuned once the turbo kit gets here and installed.

 

Here are some pics:



A picture of the hub bolted up to the machine. Its impossible for the car to move while making runs, we actually were pushing on the boxes to see what would happen at low rpm levels and nothing did. The weight of the car makes the hub boxes completely stationary.



Here is another picture of the hub box bolted to the wheel hub.



Here is a shot of my turbo hatch on the dyno. Takes about 10 mintues to get the car onto the dyno, and another 10 minutes to get it off. Set-up is painless.



Here are the inlet/outlet water lines that cool the hydrolic oil tanks within the hub box. I made quick disconnects at all the joints, a big time saver.



Here is the screen shot of the "load" option within the software. You start out holding a desired rpm, and you start applying the load. You can increase/decrease the load as desired to fully tune a map.



Here is the screen shot of the "speed" option within the software. You enter the desired rpm level you want to maintain the engine, and the hydrolics hold the engine at that rpm no matter how much throttle position. You can make "sweeps" through the fuel/timing maps to tune sections. Makes partial throttle tuning much easier and faster than street tuning.

The vid will be up in a sec.

 

Looks like its going to be worth the 4 hours drive

hopefully i can get one of my buddies to ride up with me. Long ride with no radio and no a/c...

 

Ok, made the video... check it out!


-Phil

edit: rehosted by eluder200k http://cs.widener.edu/~epanek/jeffs_dynapack.mpg

Thanks!


Modified by pkoury at 5:24 AM 6/10/2004

 

Now Jeff what will be the difference with the results between the Dynapack and a Dynojet. Will they be lower than what we have been previously seeing with the Dynojets? WHP and WTQ wise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R714 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now Jeff what will be the difference with the results between the Dynapack and a Dynojet. Will they be lower than what we have been previously seeing with the Dynojets? WHP and WTQ wise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I smell somewhat of a long explanation hearing what I heard in the training session today coming from Jeff.

 

thats cool how it completely stops after you have reached your desired rpm

 

thats pretty cool, tune away man

 

Nice Vid Phil... congrats Jeff..

 

a great investment Jeff

 

Thanks Dan... Yes it was a very good investment and is an awesome dyno.

 

enjoyed the video

having your own dyno is this shiznitzzz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pip9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> hopefully i can get one of my buddies to ride up with me. Long ride with no radio and no a/c... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just put a small boom box in the back and your good to go
I would DIE without my cd player.......................................for real!

This looks great Jeff
I am still puting that inovative wideband you sold me to good use. I will have to come up when I get my car out of the paint shop with the new bling bomex full kit I got 4 me ek. I would love for you to tune my baby. I am ditching my current setup and will have an all new setup for you to tune verry soon. I will be in touch viaM
Thanks and Congrats

 

sweet!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2R714 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now Jeff what will be the difference with the results between the Dynapack and a Dynojet. Will they be lower than what we have been previously seeing with the Dynojets? WHP and WTQ wise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not Jeff ...but I do have some experience with the Dynapack.

"Generally", the Dynapack will generate higher numbers as compared to a Dynojet based on the fact that there is no rotational loss from the wheels/tires/traction/etc. It reads directly off the hubs. The good thing is that it can detect very subtle changes to a higher degree than a Dynojet. But a feature of the Dynapack is the ability to compensate for many variables, like load/gearing/etc. So depending on the tuner and how they set up the correction factors, there's no significant differences in terms of measurement.

The only "drawback" that I can think of (and it's not that significant really) is that your numbers won't be a true reading when you're actually on the street since you have to take into account the wheel weight/traction/airflow conditions/etc etc. Don't get me wrong, the tuning capacity is tremendous. But It's virtually impossible for a dyno to replicate how your car reacts on the streets, but then again, tuning on any dyno is better than trying to go 90-120mph on some highway while adjusting your fuel/ignition tables on a laptop!

 

Good ****

 

It's good when people know what they're talking about. Thanxs Finest

 

Easton, PA? Lemme know when you are ready for some philly customers. Do you know how to tune with Crome? If so, a trip to you seems warranted. Congratulations.

 

Yes, Jeff can tune Chrome. Here's a link to a car he's recently tuned with Chrome:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=848005

 

I am very excited about this whole thing and it's not even my dyno!

 

The locals have told me many times that you put out lower numbers on this dyno. It does not make sense to me why that would be (bypasses wheel friction) and I haven't tried another dyno to compare my results.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boofster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The locals have told me many times that you put out lower numbers on this dyno. It does not make sense to me why that would be (bypasses wheel friction) and I haven't tried another dyno to compare my results.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dynapacks can read higher or lower depending on exactly what is enabled in the software. The software has a feature where you can enter the drivetrain loss, for a honda its typically 15%. In doing so the software can read in flywheel torque/power readings. This will make the numbers higher, but to be honest its for those who have the mentality that "mine is bigger than yours". Its virtually impossible to know the exact drivetrain loss, so its best to leave the percentage adjustment alone.

On the autoplot feature you enter the desired starting and stopping rpm for which the full throttle run will be performed. In the autoplot mode you must enter a time for which the run will be performed. If you enter a smaller time, less load is placed onto the hubs and the engine is able to accelerate very quickly. The numbers will read lower if this situation occurs. If you lengthen the amount of time for the engine to accelerate from the starting/stopping rpm points, more load is placed onto the engine and the readings will be higher. If you find the amount of time it takes to travel from starting/stopping rpm in a given gear with traction (I do all the full throttle tuning in 4th) on the street, that amount will be the loading placed onto the engine. You can fairly accurately simulate the same loading conditions. It would take a wind tunnel to simulate the airflow amounts seen in 4th gear pulls, so its unrealistic to tune around. I run the engines a bit richer knowing that some leaning out will occur in real world conditions, and that is all that you can do with dyno tuning.

The only other reason that the dynapacks could potentially read higher than a dynojet is the way it calculates power/torque. On a dynojet while the car accelerates it measures the time to accelerate from the starting/stoping rpm. From the length of time it takes it calculates horsepower. Knowing the horsepower, and rpm of the roller, torque can be calculated. There is a margin of error associated with calculating horsepower from time. The dynapacks measure torque directly from the hub, then calculate horsepower knowing the hub rpm level. There is less error associated with this method and in doing so the results are a tad higher (nothing major at all).

For what its worth I dyno'd my hatch on a dynojet about 4 weeks ago. It made 316whp/212 ft-lbs@ 9lbs. On the dynapack it made 304whp/205 ft-lbs @9lbs with no other changes, both SAE correction factors. In my case it read lower, but i wasnt messing with the drivetrain loss factor and the autoplot time was around 10 seconds long (about average time). The numbers are going to heavily depend on what the dyno operator/tuner is doing with the dynapack. I go for consistency and accuracy, I want the results repeatable.

 

I like your no bullshit approach on things..

 

Dynapack New Zealand

great dynos