Finally boosted.. well almost...
Haha, obviously you don't know what a private road is
Maybe you don't know about many of the backroads around here; maybe you do.
And for that matter make sure your children don't play in the street!
Me? I play on my friend's private road(s) [with the neighbors joining in mind you], and at the local south county airport (Magnum Aviation). I have been tromping the area since I was a kid, I know where it is ok/safe to play, and where it is stupid.
Modified by JaredKaragen at 5:28 PM 9/25/2007
Maybe you don't know about many of the backroads around here; maybe you do.And for that matter make sure your children don't play in the street!
Me? I play on my friend's private road(s) [with the neighbors joining in mind you], and at the local south county airport (Magnum Aviation). I have been tromping the area since I was a kid, I know where it is ok/safe to play, and where it is stupid.
Modified by JaredKaragen at 5:28 PM 9/25/2007
Update: got all gaskets and parts required to do the swap minus the section of charge piping between the turbo and drivers side coupler.
I dropped the head off at the machine shop with a deposit of $200 to get it rebuilt, and it may need guides, but I will find out after disassembly.
I think when I get the kit and everything installed, I will run a bypass for the wg so it does not boost; or induce an air leak at the bov. Get a good base tune on the 450s then get into boost and work my way up. I was considering making my own springs for the wg so I can do the adjustment, and also concecutively tune each psi incriment up to my target, I feel this would be the best way to get a more complete and proper tune, but I am not sure yet. Maybe just a few hours of braked dyno time will be better than this, but I do have an airstrip taxiway that I can use to do some tuning as the airport here has an old unused one. My father had owned planes since I was a kid and I have been able to get the county documents for liability signed so that I can use this taxiway on a controlled basis.
If your in the area, no you can't do this. If you want you can do it like the olden days and go race the twatsonville pd on the airport runway over there!
I dropped the head off at the machine shop with a deposit of $200 to get it rebuilt, and it may need guides, but I will find out after disassembly.
I think when I get the kit and everything installed, I will run a bypass for the wg so it does not boost; or induce an air leak at the bov. Get a good base tune on the 450s then get into boost and work my way up. I was considering making my own springs for the wg so I can do the adjustment, and also concecutively tune each psi incriment up to my target, I feel this would be the best way to get a more complete and proper tune, but I am not sure yet. Maybe just a few hours of braked dyno time will be better than this, but I do have an airstrip taxiway that I can use to do some tuning as the airport here has an old unused one. My father had owned planes since I was a kid and I have been able to get the county documents for liability signed so that I can use this taxiway on a controlled basis.
If your in the area, no you can't do this. If you want you can do it like the olden days and go race the twatsonville pd on the airport runway over there!
Ok, head is back from the machine shop as of yesterday. New seals. A hot tank, and full 3 angle and reword of the head is done, so I will be bolting the motor together tomorrow and possibly doing the install into the night.
Possibly thinkin of making a video of clips during the work, twould b fun.
Anyways, lots to do at work tomorrow, and lots to do after, so I will keep it short and sweet.
More TBA
Possibly thinkin of making a video of clips during the work, twould b fun.
Anyways, lots to do at work tomorrow, and lots to do after, so I will keep it short and sweet.
More TBA
Big Update:
Short and sweet.
We started at 1AM this morning, and worked through the night untill 11:00AM
I built the D15B, cleaned and installed all the parts I could while it was outside the car.
Once the motor and everything I had was installed at 4AM, I worked at a snails pace double checking everything, and tightening everything up.
That left me only one small section of charge piping to make: the stretch between the turbo and FMIC on the D/S. After a few stops in town to pick up the last of the supplies (pipe, fittings, vaccum hose for the WG) we put it all together and fired it up. It ran like **** for the first bit: it turned out that my bade D15B rom I had made days ago got corrupted somehow. Once I figured that out, I hunted down the cause of the IACV CEL (14) and it soon dawned on me that I was a retard when modifying the dummy plug, I got it reversed.
Once I fixed the problem she started up like a dream, well a rough running dream. I got a stable base AFR (idle only) and driving home I had a lean AFR (staying below 2.5KRPM and in vaccum). I haven't had a chance to do any tning as my concentration is not so good after being awake for 32 hrs.
It then dawned on me when I almost got home that I did nothing with the battery offsets for the injectors, and a whole slurry of remedys that I have yet to do. I am just too damned tired.
I have pics, but you have to wait; as a vid is in the works to be released with them
More TBA.
Short and sweet.
We started at 1AM this morning, and worked through the night untill 11:00AM
I built the D15B, cleaned and installed all the parts I could while it was outside the car.
Once the motor and everything I had was installed at 4AM, I worked at a snails pace double checking everything, and tightening everything up.
That left me only one small section of charge piping to make: the stretch between the turbo and FMIC on the D/S. After a few stops in town to pick up the last of the supplies (pipe, fittings, vaccum hose for the WG) we put it all together and fired it up. It ran like **** for the first bit: it turned out that my bade D15B rom I had made days ago got corrupted somehow. Once I figured that out, I hunted down the cause of the IACV CEL (14) and it soon dawned on me that I was a retard when modifying the dummy plug, I got it reversed.
Once I fixed the problem she started up like a dream, well a rough running dream. I got a stable base AFR (idle only) and driving home I had a lean AFR (staying below 2.5KRPM and in vaccum). I haven't had a chance to do any tning as my concentration is not so good after being awake for 32 hrs.
It then dawned on me when I almost got home that I did nothing with the battery offsets for the injectors, and a whole slurry of remedys that I have yet to do. I am just too damned tired.
I have pics, but you have to wait; as a vid is in the works to be released with them

More TBA.
Ok, Now that I have had pleanty of sleep:
Tuned, and All I am having is idle issues. A slight miss, need to diagnose it.
I finally had it tuned to be able to actually do some pulls in 3rd and so-on, definately running great. Definately wants a dumptube (next on list is a flange).
Here are 2 pics from the cameraphone. Gog away.

Tuned, and All I am having is idle issues. A slight miss, need to diagnose it.
I finally had it tuned to be able to actually do some pulls in 3rd and so-on, definately running great. Definately wants a dumptube (next on list is a flange).
Here are 2 pics from the cameraphone. Gog away.

Last edited by JaredKaragen; Apr 26, 2010 at 01:02 PM.
Another day, touching stuff up, ordered the flange needed, contimplating paying 125 shipped for a WRX turbo TD04L with both flanges.
Anyways, lots of tuning ahead. no comments on new setup?
Anyways, lots of tuning ahead. no comments on new setup?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's big, it's not too heavy, but heavy, and it has a shitload of power. Exactly what I am used to as I learned to ride in the sand on a YZ426F... discontinued because too many people were killing themselves... too much power.
More TBA</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf are you talking about they got rid of the 426 and now make the 450. unless there is something im confused about
It's big, it's not too heavy, but heavy, and it has a shitload of power. Exactly what I am used to as I learned to ride in the sand on a YZ426F... discontinued because too many people were killing themselves... too much power.
More TBA</TD></TR></TABLE>
wtf are you talking about they got rid of the 426 and now make the 450. unless there is something im confused about
Easy: the 426 was discontinued because too many people were dying. Do some research.
The 450 has a **** powerband compared to the 426; don't believe me? Come to pismo, you will see.
As for the project: Thanks for the words of encouragement.
I got a good rough tune on the car; It's fater than my buddies GTI (with mods).
I religously check for cracks on this thing, and I found one 2 days ago forming on the flange the turbo bolts to. I watched and by yesterday it was 2x bigger, so last night we pulled the turbo and manifold off.
The braces on the mani broke clean off and one fell off when I put the slightest amount of force on it, and the turbo was blowin oil past the hot seal, and possibly the cold seal. I took it apart, it was leakin at both, and the hot side was fucked beyond repair. The turbines are still good, but the exhaust turbine is not worth cleaning up at this point, I will keep the compressor wheel.
We are leaving for pick-n-pull in a few to get another turbo.
The manifold has been re-welded, I am not sure how long it will hold this time, but whatever.
ok, more TBA!
The 450 has a **** powerband compared to the 426; don't believe me? Come to pismo, you will see.
As for the project: Thanks for the words of encouragement.
I got a good rough tune on the car; It's fater than my buddies GTI (with mods).
I religously check for cracks on this thing, and I found one 2 days ago forming on the flange the turbo bolts to. I watched and by yesterday it was 2x bigger, so last night we pulled the turbo and manifold off.
The braces on the mani broke clean off and one fell off when I put the slightest amount of force on it, and the turbo was blowin oil past the hot seal, and possibly the cold seal. I took it apart, it was leakin at both, and the hot side was fucked beyond repair. The turbines are still good, but the exhaust turbine is not worth cleaning up at this point, I will keep the compressor wheel.
We are leaving for pick-n-pull in a few to get another turbo.
The manifold has been re-welded, I am not sure how long it will hold this time, but whatever.
ok, more TBA!
Another update:
New turbo leaking again; I am going to install a restrictor (home made) and see if it stops burning oil, if not, I will pull the kit untill I can get a good T3 on it.
Runs like a champ though. No other issues other than the oil burning from the turbos.
I had a mishap the other day... took an MX carb full force to the face.... Happened kinda quick, but needless to say, it split my upper lip pretty bad and I got 3 stitches. No big deal; it just hurts to eat, etc.
Video footage is slowly being made, I still have a bit to film before I begin to start downlinking it to my server for editing/processing. So your just gonna have to hold off till then
New turbo leaking again; I am going to install a restrictor (home made) and see if it stops burning oil, if not, I will pull the kit untill I can get a good T3 on it.
Runs like a champ though. No other issues other than the oil burning from the turbos.
I had a mishap the other day... took an MX carb full force to the face.... Happened kinda quick, but needless to say, it split my upper lip pretty bad and I got 3 stitches. No big deal; it just hurts to eat, etc.
Video footage is slowly being made, I still have a bit to film before I begin to start downlinking it to my server for editing/processing. So your just gonna have to hold off till then
Ya, another thing to add: the smoke is pretty funny part of the time; people telling me my motor is blown and other such things; cool thing is nobody wants to tailgate me!
Alot of the oil burning is what is still left in the exhaust, but it is steadily increasing like the last turbo; so it is close to time; I am getting ready to just fork the $200 for a chinese turbo; take my chances that way.....
The videos will probably show the smoking, but I will probably do a pull or 2 against a few buddies.
Alot of the oil burning is what is still left in the exhaust, but it is steadily increasing like the last turbo; so it is close to time; I am getting ready to just fork the $200 for a chinese turbo; take my chances that way.....
The videos will probably show the smoking, but I will probably do a pull or 2 against a few buddies.
If you're gonna fork out $200 you might as well fork out a lil more and get new or rebuilt garrett, instead of buying a chinese turbo that has a 50/50 chance of working reliably?
Agreed, I have already spent enough on junkyard turbos, but I am also debating on getting a td04l and welding a flange for it on my manifold, 125 shipped for a basically new stock wrx turbo, but I would need to mod my dp and mani
Update:
I am holding off on the TD04L; I scored a T3/T04E for a price I will not disclose, lets just say cheap as ****, and in my hand, BNIB. It may be a chinese turbo, but honestly, it can easily be rebuilt with Garrett internals. I plan to buy a new turbine shaft/wheel set (pre balanced) and swap it out with a rebuild kit when it begins to have play or leak.
Holy ****, yeah. Spool exactly where I expected it to be, between 4.6K and 5.5K. It spools way faster (when actually spinning up) then the .42/.48 I was running; though with the .42/.48 it was nice having it spool around 3.5-4K.
Anyways, no more oil burning, just a new bigger problem:
The fitting on the oil pan (I got the oil pan with the fitting installed for free when I bought my D15B) is leaking. The teflon/plastic oring/washer on the outside formed a crack, and my car now gushes oil from the return line area. I lost 1Qt on a 6 mile journey home. After I got home, I cut the whole end off a tube of silicone gasket and cleaned the drain line area and gave it a temporary "patch" but it still leaks alot. I plan to pull the oil pan and clean everything up tonight after work and I get a chance to pick up the oil/filter.
Good news is I am burning no more oil. HAHA.... now I just leave it in a nice stream behind me (If I do under 30, you can follow the trail). But lucky for me work is less than a mile away.
All in all, good news all the way around.
And for all you fun lovin peeps, I went up against my buddy with a built and S/C'd 98 Camaro Z28. I lost by one length (before leaks were present); I was literally a few inches behind his bumper. I would consider that not bad at all being that I am on 6.5PSI. This was on a private road in town. The neighbors always love to race us out there, they will bring out their ferraris, etc... good for a laugh on both of our ends
The second instance is on my way to the shop to meet my friend and buy the turbo/install it, a White 96-00 civic drove by me the other way revving his motor, and flashed his emergency lights twice, so I did the same, but did nothing to change my course and where I was going. He finally caught up to me when I turned onto the road the shop is on (another straight stretch), and he pulled up in the wrong lane next to me (I stopped just after pulling onto the road) and yelled "One point five!", he in turn yelled "Dude, I'm gonna SMOKE you!", I laughed and looked forward. He said "On three" revved 3 times, then started pullin away. I casually started going in 1st, letting him feel good, then at 5K, mashed the gas, ripped thru first catching up, then dropping 2nd hard and roasting the tires as I shot past him. I didn't even get through 2nd gear before he let off, pulled an ebrake and booked it out of there.
That one will make me laugh and bring a smile to my face for days to come.
God damned ricers.... HAHA!
I am holding off on the TD04L; I scored a T3/T04E for a price I will not disclose, lets just say cheap as ****, and in my hand, BNIB. It may be a chinese turbo, but honestly, it can easily be rebuilt with Garrett internals. I plan to buy a new turbine shaft/wheel set (pre balanced) and swap it out with a rebuild kit when it begins to have play or leak.
Holy ****, yeah. Spool exactly where I expected it to be, between 4.6K and 5.5K. It spools way faster (when actually spinning up) then the .42/.48 I was running; though with the .42/.48 it was nice having it spool around 3.5-4K.
Anyways, no more oil burning, just a new bigger problem:
The fitting on the oil pan (I got the oil pan with the fitting installed for free when I bought my D15B) is leaking. The teflon/plastic oring/washer on the outside formed a crack, and my car now gushes oil from the return line area. I lost 1Qt on a 6 mile journey home. After I got home, I cut the whole end off a tube of silicone gasket and cleaned the drain line area and gave it a temporary "patch" but it still leaks alot. I plan to pull the oil pan and clean everything up tonight after work and I get a chance to pick up the oil/filter.
Good news is I am burning no more oil. HAHA.... now I just leave it in a nice stream behind me (If I do under 30, you can follow the trail). But lucky for me work is less than a mile away.
All in all, good news all the way around.
And for all you fun lovin peeps, I went up against my buddy with a built and S/C'd 98 Camaro Z28. I lost by one length (before leaks were present); I was literally a few inches behind his bumper. I would consider that not bad at all being that I am on 6.5PSI. This was on a private road in town. The neighbors always love to race us out there, they will bring out their ferraris, etc... good for a laugh on both of our ends

The second instance is on my way to the shop to meet my friend and buy the turbo/install it, a White 96-00 civic drove by me the other way revving his motor, and flashed his emergency lights twice, so I did the same, but did nothing to change my course and where I was going. He finally caught up to me when I turned onto the road the shop is on (another straight stretch), and he pulled up in the wrong lane next to me (I stopped just after pulling onto the road) and yelled "One point five!", he in turn yelled "Dude, I'm gonna SMOKE you!", I laughed and looked forward. He said "On three" revved 3 times, then started pullin away. I casually started going in 1st, letting him feel good, then at 5K, mashed the gas, ripped thru first catching up, then dropping 2nd hard and roasting the tires as I shot past him. I didn't even get through 2nd gear before he let off, pulled an ebrake and booked it out of there.
That one will make me laugh and bring a smile to my face for days to come.
God damned ricers.... HAHA!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all the right equipment as in chipping supplies, orstich, wideband, etc etc.
Who else do you know that got a car, replaced the motor and computer and turbo'd it all for less than $600? it may not be all put together yet, but so far things are promising is all
</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAHA
I'M LOVING IT
Who else do you know that got a car, replaced the motor and computer and turbo'd it all for less than $600? it may not be all put together yet, but so far things are promising is all
</TD></TR></TABLE>HAHAHA
I'M LOVING IT
Thanks 4 it... yeah, alot of people that talk **** simply ignore the simple facts of how simple, easy, and cheap this all was basicaslly saying "It done gonna blow up!!!!!!!!".
Anyways update: got a new turbo, brand new taiwanese T3/T04E, and the price is right... believe me when I say that... or else I wouldn't have bought it. My friend had it in a box for a while, and when he bolted it to his Miata a while back, he saw it didn't spin, so pulled his kit off. He admits he is a retard (but he's still a mechanic) and asked me the 123,abc's of turboing a car and was kicking himself in the *** for not doing it right.
Anyways, the car runs awesome now.... no burning oil.
Only problem is the other day one of the sealing washers on my return line fitting broke in 2 places and the car was gushing oil from it. I patched it up with sealant, and it should be good for a while... It didn't leak at first, but after a drive, the oil pan was shiny from oil, so I can deal with the fact that the oil pan is oily, but my car doesn't leave a 1 foot around puddle when I pull over, it barely drips if much at all. I need to get a brand new oil pan, and tap it accordingly.
All in all, things are going good... just the usual bay area ricer encounters, thinking I will race them, where in all actuality I just end up continuing where I am going, but I end up ditching them in the process (Uvas or Day Rd works great) to keep their tailgating asses away
1,500miles boosted, running strong!
Anyways update: got a new turbo, brand new taiwanese T3/T04E, and the price is right... believe me when I say that... or else I wouldn't have bought it. My friend had it in a box for a while, and when he bolted it to his Miata a while back, he saw it didn't spin, so pulled his kit off. He admits he is a retard (but he's still a mechanic) and asked me the 123,abc's of turboing a car and was kicking himself in the *** for not doing it right.
Anyways, the car runs awesome now.... no burning oil.
Only problem is the other day one of the sealing washers on my return line fitting broke in 2 places and the car was gushing oil from it. I patched it up with sealant, and it should be good for a while... It didn't leak at first, but after a drive, the oil pan was shiny from oil, so I can deal with the fact that the oil pan is oily, but my car doesn't leave a 1 foot around puddle when I pull over, it barely drips if much at all. I need to get a brand new oil pan, and tap it accordingly.
All in all, things are going good... just the usual bay area ricer encounters, thinking I will race them, where in all actuality I just end up continuing where I am going, but I end up ditching them in the process (Uvas or Day Rd works great) to keep their tailgating asses away
1,500miles boosted, running strong!
ok, maybe time for a few little updates:
The car runs awesome; My JAW took a **** on me though... I need to rewire it, or it is something in the controller (something makes me thing bad solder as a first guess, cause I didn't solder it). So... that in mind tuning came to a halt, but it is pleanty in the safe zone.
The manifold has broken on me twice now: the first crack I caught in time, the second; WG fell off completely and instantaneously while cruising at 65 on the FWY. Bolth have been rewelded and re-braced... beefed up too. So far, so good but there is better news:
I struck a deal with one of the site's peeps; name anonymous but he can chime in if he feels fit: I am trading in my manifold in exchange for a discount on a brand new manifold. I will also be getting a matched DP for my setup as well. Very cool. I won't say the discount, or the amount I am paying; but I can't refuse.
I just ordered a -3AN plug for my oil line so that I do not need to remove the line from my car; and the only other thing I will need to do is make a breather can for the 10AN return line >=D
Intake: When I put the T04E on, the intake I was running would not fit, and I did not want to run a reducer coupler on my inlet. With this in mind, I put a 3" coupler on my APC intake, and pushed, and got the coupler to fit on, and suprisingly enough, the intake works perfectly, and shoots for the correct spots; u will see in the pics... hella ghetto-cheap style, but it is functional, metal, and works awesome. And for you skeptics: I am running my 1/2 rad, with the FMIC, and that 3" pipe behind the fan, and no heat issues whatsoever. Granted, the intake pipe gets warm, but if you feel the other side of the FMIC after driving; it is ice cold not warm like the other side.
The intercooler setup had to change: Too many ricers in this area; and stupid ones at that! To date 4 people have been pulled over for trying to race me without thinking or looking; I find it humorus and laugh as I drive by. In that, I decided to paint my front charge pipes, along with the FMIC with a flat ceramic (1200 degree) paint. It looks superb, and definately made it more incognito. Plans to replace with a FMIC the size of the 1/2 radiator are in the works.
The T3/T04E is giving good results; but a bit laggy IMHO for wanting to zip around; but I think this will be different on the motor I am building and the power I will be shooting for. It makes it more economical though, staying out of boost alot more, but I did like the spool at 3-3.5K... Now a little higher, it just gives a slight delay and snaps into power which really turns the heads.
Anyways, here are some photos, and I have included a few extras of other projects and such just because













The car runs awesome; My JAW took a **** on me though... I need to rewire it, or it is something in the controller (something makes me thing bad solder as a first guess, cause I didn't solder it). So... that in mind tuning came to a halt, but it is pleanty in the safe zone.
The manifold has broken on me twice now: the first crack I caught in time, the second; WG fell off completely and instantaneously while cruising at 65 on the FWY. Bolth have been rewelded and re-braced... beefed up too. So far, so good but there is better news:
I struck a deal with one of the site's peeps; name anonymous but he can chime in if he feels fit: I am trading in my manifold in exchange for a discount on a brand new manifold. I will also be getting a matched DP for my setup as well. Very cool. I won't say the discount, or the amount I am paying; but I can't refuse.
I just ordered a -3AN plug for my oil line so that I do not need to remove the line from my car; and the only other thing I will need to do is make a breather can for the 10AN return line >=D
Intake: When I put the T04E on, the intake I was running would not fit, and I did not want to run a reducer coupler on my inlet. With this in mind, I put a 3" coupler on my APC intake, and pushed, and got the coupler to fit on, and suprisingly enough, the intake works perfectly, and shoots for the correct spots; u will see in the pics... hella ghetto-cheap style, but it is functional, metal, and works awesome. And for you skeptics: I am running my 1/2 rad, with the FMIC, and that 3" pipe behind the fan, and no heat issues whatsoever. Granted, the intake pipe gets warm, but if you feel the other side of the FMIC after driving; it is ice cold not warm like the other side.
The intercooler setup had to change: Too many ricers in this area; and stupid ones at that! To date 4 people have been pulled over for trying to race me without thinking or looking; I find it humorus and laugh as I drive by. In that, I decided to paint my front charge pipes, along with the FMIC with a flat ceramic (1200 degree) paint. It looks superb, and definately made it more incognito. Plans to replace with a FMIC the size of the 1/2 radiator are in the works.
The T3/T04E is giving good results; but a bit laggy IMHO for wanting to zip around; but I think this will be different on the motor I am building and the power I will be shooting for. It makes it more economical though, staying out of boost alot more, but I did like the spool at 3-3.5K... Now a little higher, it just gives a slight delay and snaps into power which really turns the heads.
Anyways, here are some photos, and I have included a few extras of other projects and such just because














Last edited by JaredKaragen; Apr 26, 2010 at 01:04 PM.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaredKaragen »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The car runs took a **** on me though...
It looks superb.........
The manifold has broken on me twice now:
hella ghetto-cheap ...
...which really turns the heads.
Too many ricers in this area; and stupid ones at that!!!!

</TD></TR></TABLE>
That should sum it up. I can't believe this car made it 5 months, much less 11 pages worth.
The car runs took a **** on me though...
It looks superb.........
The manifold has broken on me twice now:
hella ghetto-cheap ...
...which really turns the heads.
Too many ricers in this area; and stupid ones at that!!!!

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That should sum it up. I can't believe this car made it 5 months, much less 11 pages worth.
haha, ya, always good for a laugh.
The 2 new tires get put on tomorrow, as well as all the bushings in the frontend are being replaced; rack, a-arms, etc. so the handling will be back to par.
As for the rear, I am trying to find someone in the bay area that has a complete rear disc swap for an EG/EJ (92-95 civic or 94-01 teg) at a _reasonable_ price if not cheap. Once I get the rear disc kit, I will put all the rear bushings in and bolt in the rear disc swap [alignment too of course] and be done with the suspension for a long while; untill the body is finally straight and primered.
Work is slow; lots to do so I must go about my business; but yep Fun fun, and the manifold was worth $100. no complaints; just supporting info for the peeps out there. BUT: If I had re-welded everything on the mani before the initial install I would not have had any cracking issues.
every crack has been at the outer edge around the collector. all of the flange side welds are fine and have not had any problems.
I am however getting my new mani/DP ordered in a weel or so, so things are moving forward; I just need to keep things rolling.
Another update omitted (I think) is the red is gone; no more red cab light, no more red dash trim, it's all black now. Only things left is to replace the door panels (small tears/damages), the rear PS panel, the cup holder (broken) and ash tray (still painted red). I didn't feel like spending more than $30 at pick n pull last time or I would have them already.
I have a lead on a cheap *** car: a 94 Del Sol; $500 it has a blown HG. I may put the smog motor back in the ricer and switch cars, but I am undetermined at this point; plus, I don't want one with a non OEM paint job; there may be shitty bondo behind a [most likely] mako paint job that normally won't last more than 1-2yrs. I want to spend the cash to get some good paint/clear/etc and get it done by a good friend who does fantabulous work.
Anyways; ya. Back to work!
The 2 new tires get put on tomorrow, as well as all the bushings in the frontend are being replaced; rack, a-arms, etc. so the handling will be back to par.
As for the rear, I am trying to find someone in the bay area that has a complete rear disc swap for an EG/EJ (92-95 civic or 94-01 teg) at a _reasonable_ price if not cheap. Once I get the rear disc kit, I will put all the rear bushings in and bolt in the rear disc swap [alignment too of course] and be done with the suspension for a long while; untill the body is finally straight and primered.
Work is slow; lots to do so I must go about my business; but yep Fun fun, and the manifold was worth $100. no complaints; just supporting info for the peeps out there. BUT: If I had re-welded everything on the mani before the initial install I would not have had any cracking issues.
every crack has been at the outer edge around the collector. all of the flange side welds are fine and have not had any problems.
I am however getting my new mani/DP ordered in a weel or so, so things are moving forward; I just need to keep things rolling.
Another update omitted (I think) is the red is gone; no more red cab light, no more red dash trim, it's all black now. Only things left is to replace the door panels (small tears/damages), the rear PS panel, the cup holder (broken) and ash tray (still painted red). I didn't feel like spending more than $30 at pick n pull last time or I would have them already.
I have a lead on a cheap *** car: a 94 Del Sol; $500 it has a blown HG. I may put the smog motor back in the ricer and switch cars, but I am undetermined at this point; plus, I don't want one with a non OEM paint job; there may be shitty bondo behind a [most likely] mako paint job that normally won't last more than 1-2yrs. I want to spend the cash to get some good paint/clear/etc and get it done by a good friend who does fantabulous work.
Anyways; ya. Back to work!



