Different solutions would work on different people but not all....

I was also in the same position, tried double nuts, different types of nuts, lock washers, wired nuts, high temp loctite (I don't care how high temp they are but any **** will burn right off in there), torque and retorque after heat cycles/ when its hot..... u name it, none worked for me. I had bolts coming off left right and center when I drive it hard. Just too much vibration in there loosening them all up. Right now I have studded them and used these special nuts that lightly cuts into the studs as you tighten them up and so far has held up.

Have you looked into those 'Pro 8' (can't remember the exact name or web site, sorry!) nuts that 'locks' into place once you tightened them down? There is no way in hell that its possible for these to come loose.

Oh, forgot to add I have a Maxrev mani...

 

i've had them bolts fall out loose or snap quite a few times by now.. but i had better luck when i don't overtorque them and retorque them few times after, then it stays for a while. i use grade 10 bolt with flat washer and lock washer in between. i'm sure if i use a stud with locking nut, it will definately hold.. just haven't had a chance to get one yet.

 

I had tried everything and had bolts fall out.

I now torque the bolts than put a small tack on one corner of each bolt.

Done 20+ Inline Pro manifolds since ,,,,no problems now.

 

the best way to fix this is to get bolts with holes in the cap, and use lacing wire to lace them, holding the bolts inplace, thats what we do on military vehicles

 

Hit the threads on the bolt w/ a hammer... then the bolt will crossthread hehe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the best way to fix this is to get bolts with holes in the cap, and use lacing wire to lace them, holding the bolts inplace, thats what we do on military vehicles</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea you can do that or get a safety wire drill fixture and drill your own.

 

I used the stainless inlinepro manifold and their stud kit. Two turbos and two motors later manifold and stud kit are still just super-duper fine.

swlabhot: You are refering to "Stage-8" Locking hardware bolts and clips. They usually make stuff for domestics, not sure if they were making metric stuff yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hit the threads on the bolt w/ a hammer... then the bolt will crossthread hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use that same trick too but I also spray water on the manifold and let it rust for extra grip...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboSmart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I use that same trick too but I also spray water on the manifold and let it rust for extra grip... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Too bad the manifold's STAINLESS. :-P


I ended up ordering a kit with these:



Safety wire washers with tabs to hold the bolt head.

We'll see hopw it works. For $20, it's not a bad buy, either.

 

We have ran into the same problems with alot of our customers cars that had inline pro manifolds. Hold a straight edge on the manifold to check for warpage. Ive had one that was as much as .030" off. We got them milled and seem to work out good. Also try using a gasket between the manifold and turbo after you get it milled. Inline says not to, but we do and its worked out.

 

I've used a gasket everytime. I'd done the straight edge trick, and there was no warpage of the flange on any axis, straight across, deep, or diagonal. It's flatter than a pancake.

Safety wire kit should be in soon. It's a $20 solution, so I should be please... I hope.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jeremyG2teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any verdict on the safety wire method?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, it works. That's why the military uses it on everything.

 

if you don't have a flex section on your dp or right after it...you will run into this problem alot on any mani..setup...i've even seen people break dp's because they had no flex section...just my two cent's...stud's should work as well if the mani and housin r decks

 

Yeah, airlines use it too, but they use a bolt with a hole and the end and stick a wire thru that with a nut with grooves in it to catch the wire. I used to work at usairways, my father still does. I'm going to see if he can grab me a few.

 

i used to have a decent amount of work done at this one shop, and every time theyd take the manifold off my car, id break one or two bolts AT LEAST in the next months time.

but for some reason, i work on it myself, and they never break...

 

hey man, i had the exact same problem, posted on here, all the **** people suggested, i tried and didnt work. finally, i took it over to the guy who built my motor, and he made sure both surfaces were true, the manifold and turbine housing. i was using shitty thick gaskets before tha'd keep burning up, so he pulled out some old *** 300ZX turbo, took out the gasket, and the LOCK TABS off of it (THATS THE TRICK) so the nuts on the studs cant back off at all. then tightened every bolt down good, and i havent had a problem since, its been about 3 months now. if you can get your hands on a solid metal gasket, and lock tabs, youre set, take my word for it, b/c NOTHING else worked for me.


Mike@TSR knows what **** i had to go through, haha

 

I'm a lazy bum with two other vehicles. Honda's been sitting for a month. Got the safety wire kit in a while back, too. lol

I'll hopefully get off my *** and work on it this week.