EJ1 wilcox

I am encountering a weird problem with my car. It's a d16z6 turbo, the turbo is a garrett T3 (.42/.48), it was completely rebuilt and I've only put about 20 miles on it.

Here's what's happening... The other day as I was going into boost I heard kind of a turkey gobble sound and the boost went to zero even though I was still at WOT.

So I figured it was either a boost leak, or my bov is messed up. I went home and checked everything and there weren't any boost leaks etc. So I figured it must be my bov (DSM). Today I made a block off plate and bolted it to the bov flange to see if I could built boost and thus know that the bov is the problem.

Well, I went for a drive and the exact same thing was happening, I would start going into boost and hear the turkey gobble sound before I reached even 5 psi and the boost would drop to zero. This ruled out the bov at least. lol

You are probably thinking that it's maybe a broken wastegate spring right? Well, I checked that too. Plus I'm running an open dumptube so I would be able to hear if it was the wastegate opening up too early.

So I took the filter off the turbo and spun the wheel with my fingers a few times just to make sure it's working properly. There isn't any shaft play but when I spin the wheel it kind of feels like it gets bound up some times. Like it will spin perfectly a few times then get harder to spin, then go back to spinning fine. Weird huh?

It's unusual because I would think that if there was some problem with the turbo then it wouldn't spin at all or there would be wheel to housing contact, neither of which are happening.

What I'm thinking is that the wheel is binding up at a certain psi and that turkey gobble sound I'm hearing is compressor surge as the boost backs out through the stopped comp wheel.

I can't think of anything else. What do you think? Ever experienced this sort of thing before??

Help!!

Bailhatch

maybe the nut came loose so as the temp changes the wheel will start slipping or something?

raceACCORDingly

wheel not balanced correctly?

EJ1 wilcox

I checked the comp nut and it's on there tight. It should have been balanced correctly by the company that rebuilt the turbo.

Is it possible that when I clocked it that I tightened the bolts down to tight causing there to be not enough clearance between the housing and wheel? Then when it heats up and expands it causes contact and stops the wheels??

I'm going to loosen all of the bolts that hold the housings on and then just snug them up (before I really cranked them down). I hope that helps!!

EJ1 wilcox

Turns out the turbo is bad. One of the wheels (maybe both) are contacting the housing and not stopping the wheel, but grinding it against the housing enough to kill the boost.

It is only happening while there is a load on the engine because the exhaust gas pushes on the wheel just enough to cause contact with the housing, then it slows down, pushes oil past the seal, and I lose boost.

I'm pulling the turbo off tomorrow and sending it back to Blaast performance, the rebuild is still under warranty. They better fix it up under warranty anyways, it's only got less than 30 miles on it.

Anyways, off comes the turbo tomorrow morning!

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ1 wilcox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I checked the comp nut and it's on there tight. It should have been balanced correctly by the company that rebuilt the turbo.

Is it possible that <U>when I clocked it </U>that I tightened the bolts down to tight causing there to be not enough clearance between the housing and wheel? Then when it heats up and expands it causes contact and stops the wheels??

I'm going to loosen all of the bolts that hold the housings on and then just snug them up (before I really cranked them down). I hope that helps!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


Thats definately your problem. 99% of the 50 trim t3's out there (.42/.48's) use a brittle carbon seal between the cover and backplate. 90% of the time the bolts are put on tight enough to get the seal to stick, and it breaks apart when moving/removing the cover. My guess would be its now 2x thick in some places, and 0x thick in another, making the cover uneven, and touching the wheel like you noticed. This would lead to [some, if not all]: wheel/housing contact, slow spool, zero boost, or big boost leak. Just beware, if this is the case, it may be considered user error not rebuilder error, which probably isnt' covered by the warranty.

Here's a new seal, this company has rocked my socks with many parts already:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...QrdZ1