emergency FPR psi question!!!
12-20-2003, 09:07 PM
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emergency FPR psi question!!!
my Aeromotive FPR is jacked so i took it off. i replaced it with a Vortech that sucks *** too, as it it won't let me ADJUST it. anyway, at least the car runs now. my question is:
i can't get the psi to change from 80 psi. it was tuned at 53. will it be okay until i can get a new diaphragm for my Aeromotive?
i'm thinking it'll just run a bit rich for a while?
i can't get the psi to change from 80 psi. it was tuned at 53. will it be okay until i can get a new diaphragm for my Aeromotive?
i'm thinking it'll just run a bit rich for a while?
12-23-2003, 02:56 PM
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Re: emergency FPR psi question!!! (Mista Bone)
sorry it took me so long to reply, guys, been going back and forth with brett from Aeromotive.
model number: 13116, and, yes. it fits the stock honda rail.
i don't think it was a problem with the part, so much as the assembly. when i bought it and installed it, i found the brass set screw in the back to be loose, so i tightend that down. i didn't bother to check the rest. soooooooo, i'm driving around one day and start to smell fuel, also my car is dying like it's out of gas. so i pop the hood and see/smell gas EVERYWHERE! i turn the key on to find gas fanning out of the FPR where the top bolts to the base with the four allen bolts. apparently, they were not tight. this exposure to fuel is what we believe ruined the diaphragm. luckily, nothing else seemed to get hurt and there was no fire. the problem i was having afterward was the FPR was stuck at about 80 psi of pressure. when i adjusted the diaphagm ( i thought maybe it was stretched too tight and not adjusting properly)it would then start holding fuel pressure between 54psi and 65psi. it was unpredictable. when it would spike up, i was unable to lower the pressure. the diaphragm now seems to be a bit stiff and more like plastic than rubber. i'm confident replacing it will solve my problem.
it also seem as though Aeromotive is gonna help me out a bit.
here's what's up so far:
email from brett:
"The diaphragm may curl slightly at the edges if it has been exposed to gasoline and then the cap removed, but this will have no effect on it’s performance. Unless you have fuel coming out of the vacuum port, it’s fine. If you do have fuel coming out of the vacuum port, I’ll send you another diaphragm. *
*
* i did have fuel coming out of the vacuum port*
Finally, I have a hint of what the problem is, you mentioned that the pressure did not seem to want to adjust. The cause of this is most likely simple and you can fix it yourself. Remove the vacuum/boost nipple from the regulator cap, plug the line to the manifold, start the engine and see if pressure will adjust. If so, the vacuum boost port, drilled and tapped into the cap, may have been machined a hair too deep. Because this is a 1/16” NPT thread, it is tapered. If drilled too deep, it could permit the vacuum boost nipple to thread in so far that it contacts the spring in the cap. This would bind the spring and make adjustments to the stud on top ineffective to change fuel pressure.
* i checked this and all clearances look to be fine*
If this is the problem, you can modify the end of the vacuum fitting by grasping it firmly in a bench vice, with the threaded end pointing up, then with a hand grinder, grind off 2-3 threads. You can then dress the outside edge with a file and thread it back into the cap. If you mess up, I’ll send you another nipple, but because pipe threads are tapered (smaller at the starting end) it should still start easily into the cap once modified.
If you can’t or don’t want to modify the fitting, at least remove it and make sure that’s the problem, then let me know."
so, brett has been tons of help. the vacuum fitting seems to be fine. i took it apart and threaded it in.. it doesn't look to come anywhere near the spring. the FPR worked BEAUTIFULLY before the leak... but after the FPR coming loose and leaking gas, the diaphragm looks AWFUL. it's all bunched/curled up. looks like a raisin. from what brett says he will send me another.
MAJOR TO AEROMOTIVE FOR THE CONTINUED HELP
i'll let ya'll know how it goes and what we find out.
model number: 13116, and, yes. it fits the stock honda rail.
i don't think it was a problem with the part, so much as the assembly. when i bought it and installed it, i found the brass set screw in the back to be loose, so i tightend that down. i didn't bother to check the rest. soooooooo, i'm driving around one day and start to smell fuel, also my car is dying like it's out of gas. so i pop the hood and see/smell gas EVERYWHERE! i turn the key on to find gas fanning out of the FPR where the top bolts to the base with the four allen bolts. apparently, they were not tight. this exposure to fuel is what we believe ruined the diaphragm. luckily, nothing else seemed to get hurt and there was no fire. the problem i was having afterward was the FPR was stuck at about 80 psi of pressure. when i adjusted the diaphagm ( i thought maybe it was stretched too tight and not adjusting properly)it would then start holding fuel pressure between 54psi and 65psi. it was unpredictable. when it would spike up, i was unable to lower the pressure. the diaphragm now seems to be a bit stiff and more like plastic than rubber. i'm confident replacing it will solve my problem.
it also seem as though Aeromotive is gonna help me out a bit.
here's what's up so far:
email from brett:
"The diaphragm may curl slightly at the edges if it has been exposed to gasoline and then the cap removed, but this will have no effect on it’s performance. Unless you have fuel coming out of the vacuum port, it’s fine. If you do have fuel coming out of the vacuum port, I’ll send you another diaphragm. *
** i did have fuel coming out of the vacuum port*
Finally, I have a hint of what the problem is, you mentioned that the pressure did not seem to want to adjust. The cause of this is most likely simple and you can fix it yourself. Remove the vacuum/boost nipple from the regulator cap, plug the line to the manifold, start the engine and see if pressure will adjust. If so, the vacuum boost port, drilled and tapped into the cap, may have been machined a hair too deep. Because this is a 1/16” NPT thread, it is tapered. If drilled too deep, it could permit the vacuum boost nipple to thread in so far that it contacts the spring in the cap. This would bind the spring and make adjustments to the stud on top ineffective to change fuel pressure.
* i checked this and all clearances look to be fine*
If this is the problem, you can modify the end of the vacuum fitting by grasping it firmly in a bench vice, with the threaded end pointing up, then with a hand grinder, grind off 2-3 threads. You can then dress the outside edge with a file and thread it back into the cap. If you mess up, I’ll send you another nipple, but because pipe threads are tapered (smaller at the starting end) it should still start easily into the cap once modified.
If you can’t or don’t want to modify the fitting, at least remove it and make sure that’s the problem, then let me know."
so, brett has been tons of help. the vacuum fitting seems to be fine. i took it apart and threaded it in.. it doesn't look to come anywhere near the spring. the FPR worked BEAUTIFULLY before the leak... but after the FPR coming loose and leaking gas, the diaphragm looks AWFUL. it's all bunched/curled up. looks like a raisin. from what brett says he will send me another.
MAJOR
TO AEROMOTIVE FOR THE CONTINUED HELPi'll let ya'll know how it goes and what we find out.
12-23-2003, 03:31 PM
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further update: brett @ aeromotive is sending me out a new diaphragm (he lauged after seeing the picture of my current one).
now THAT is customer service! time to go shopping on their website!
now THAT is customer service! time to go shopping on their website!
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12-23-2003, 11:35 PM
#8
D Tranny Guru
Re: (kaj)
atleast they got back with you.
They (aeromotive) never returned my calls or my emails.
I planned on trimming the brass fitting when I reinstall the FPR in the spring.
I also turned the "hat" 180 degrees to point the fitting towards the passenger side.
Damn, look at those weird injectors
Ford?
They (aeromotive) never returned my calls or my emails.
I planned on trimming the brass fitting when I reinstall the FPR in the spring.
I also turned the "hat" 180 degrees to point the fitting towards the passenger side.
Damn, look at those weird injectors
Ford?
12-24-2003, 03:00 PM
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Re: (Mista Bone)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mista Bone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">atleast they got back with you.
They (aeromotive) never returned my calls or my emails.
I planned on trimming the brass fitting when I reinstall the FPR in the spring.
I also turned the "hat" 180 degrees to point the fitting towards the passenger side.
Damn, look at those weird injectors
Ford? </TD></TR></TABLE>
your vacuum port is brass? mine is crome-plated steel. you're talking about where the vacuum line attatches, right? mine is VERY close to the spring when tightened, but does not quite go near the spring.
nice FPR other than the fact that the bolts were loose. ugly as hell, though.. unless you REALLY like Van Halen.
They (aeromotive) never returned my calls or my emails.
I planned on trimming the brass fitting when I reinstall the FPR in the spring.
I also turned the "hat" 180 degrees to point the fitting towards the passenger side.
Damn, look at those weird injectors
Ford?
</TD></TR></TABLE>your vacuum port is brass? mine is crome-plated steel. you're talking about where the vacuum line attatches, right? mine is VERY close to the spring when tightened, but does not quite go near the spring.
nice FPR other than the fact that the bolts were loose. ugly as hell, though.. unless you REALLY like Van Halen.
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