dyno or wideband?
Is it really worth spending a few hundred dollars on the dyno tuning, or just get a wideband O2 do it yourself. Pros vs cons? Is it hard to tune on the street with a wideband? I just dont want to pay a few hundred bucks for dyno time, and my **** still doesnt run good, or latter decide to up the boost and have to pay more to retune once again.
That's a good point, i always though the same way. If you are good at tuning and know what you are doing, than the wideband is definitaly the way to go. However, not everyone has the knowledge of tuning. Therefore making it useless for self-tuning.
when they run your car on the dyno for tuning they normally hook up a wideband O2 to the car (if they do it correctly) and that is that, it is better to tune your car on a dyno than run 120+ down the road in 4th gear getting a good pull out of it
Most of the time, the off-the-shelf widebands are toys compared to the units that Dyno Shops own.
I'd suggest getting wideband for monitoring but have dyno tune. I couldn't see the point of adding any mods without dyno tuning. That just completely sounds bizarre to me.
I'd suggest getting wideband for monitoring but have dyno tune. I couldn't see the point of adding any mods without dyno tuning. That just completely sounds bizarre to me.
I have to say there isnt a more safe feeling than tuning WHILE on the dyno. Our original plan on saturday was to do some street tuning and then rip the dyno but unforseen problems prevented that.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd suggest getting wideband for monitoring but have dyno tune. I couldn't see the point of adding any mods without dyno tuning. That just completely sounds bizarre to me.
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its quite easy len.
IE. take a ls integra w/ a drag 3 kit. take away the fmu and inline pump, add rc 440's and hondata s200b.
What exactly would you tune on the dyno? Fuel and Ignition, correct?
Well, knowing you should retard ignition timing .75 degrees per psi. You can mathematically figure all your needed ignition values.
What do you have left?
Just fuel.
With a wideband, you can easily accomplish this on the street.
Naturally, with higher output cars, you'll want to be on the dyno, as it tells you more of whats going on.
But dyno tuning isnt always necessary if you have a portable wideband.
</TD></TR></TABLE>its quite easy len.
IE. take a ls integra w/ a drag 3 kit. take away the fmu and inline pump, add rc 440's and hondata s200b.
What exactly would you tune on the dyno? Fuel and Ignition, correct?
Well, knowing you should retard ignition timing .75 degrees per psi. You can mathematically figure all your needed ignition values.
What do you have left?
Just fuel.
With a wideband, you can easily accomplish this on the street.
Naturally, with higher output cars, you'll want to be on the dyno, as it tells you more of whats going on.
But dyno tuning isnt always necessary if you have a portable wideband.
not sure if this has ever happened to anyone else, but i tested a aem uego wide band vs a dynojet wideband, and the readings were off by a lot. it's not just the sensor that's important, its the controller software and calibrations too. i guess you get what you pay for.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SEFIxCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not sure if this has ever happened to anyone else, but i tested a aem uego wide band vs a dynojet wideband, and the readings were off by a lot. it's not just the sensor that's important, its the controller software and calibrations too. i guess you get what you pay for.</TD></TR></TABLE>
doubtful, your calibrations were most likely off.
from what i hear the aem's wideband is accurate. *shrug*
my techedge was from 0.1:1 to 0.2:1 at most different that dynojet's read out.
doubtful, your calibrations were most likely off.
from what i hear the aem's wideband is accurate. *shrug*
my techedge was from 0.1:1 to 0.2:1 at most different that dynojet's read out.
I don't know. I still couldn't do that Steve. The thought of not having the numbers to back you with your tuning. I mean, at the least go ahead and do street tuning to get the car running right and then spend a couple hours on the dyno fine tuning.
how do you think vics car was tuned? it was street tuned first, the very first pull it made 411 whp. i dont think i even changed the fuel curve on the dyno, only messed w/ ignition because of the race gas that we added later.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you think vics car was tuned? it was street tuned first, the very first pull it made 411 whp. i dont think i even changed the fuel curve on the dyno, only messed w/ ignition because of the race gas that we added later.
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So yes or no did you gain hp on the dyno?
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So yes or no did you gain hp on the dyno?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So yes or no did you gain hp on the dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope. not on pump gas. I actually pulled some timing back on the dyno to make not as much.
but of course we did on race gas because we didnt street tune on race gas.
So yes or no did you gain hp on the dyno?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope. not on pump gas. I actually pulled some timing back on the dyno to make not as much.

but of course we did on race gas because we didnt street tune on race gas.
If you do tuning on the street only, you won't know how much power you're making, plus when you add or remove fuel, you don't know if it adds or removes power from you setup. Sometimes even 13:1 fuel ratio can hurt hp.
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