What is the difference b/w Street and dyno tune?

 
Old 06-15-2004, 04:55 PM
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Default What is the difference b/w Street and dyno tune?

ive tried to search, cant get a solid answer.
i know some people street tune due to the fact that they
dont have access to dyno. but i called up this one shop that
is real good in my area, they say they will do a street tune, and when
they are done they will do a dyno tune.

can someone explain the difference and why you would do both?
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:57 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong:

Street tune - make runs on the road, datalog, make changes, make more runs.

Dyno tune - strap it down, run it, load the engine with the dyno, datalog, make adjustments.
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Old 06-15-2004, 05:04 PM
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I was thinking

Most dyno cant tune at partial load they also dont have realistic forces applied such as wind/drag/traction. you get a good tune for WOT.

street tuning should always be able to tune at any load.

This assumes you have datalogging equipmenent, wideband, etc....
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Old 06-15-2004, 05:49 PM
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Default Re: (Sinner)

is any one of these methods better than the other?
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Old 06-15-2004, 06:02 PM
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Default Re: (-iLLuZioN-B18C1)

well i had boosted-hybrid dyno tune my car and with his dynopack dyno you can load the motor and do all the tunning on the dyno. i like the dyno much better than the street tunning, its just to unsafe to be wideopen in 4th and going like 140mph or so and trying not to get pulled over or hurt somone.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:15 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i had boosted-hybrid dyno tune my car and with his dynopack dyno you can load the motor and do all the tunning on the dyno. i like the dyno much better than the street tunning, its just to unsafe to be wideopen in 4th and going like 140mph or so and trying not to get pulled over or hurt somone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

street tuning is great IMO because your tuning for exactly whatthe car will see.. the real wind speeds, real temp, hood is closed so your getting how the car will really pull taking in all that hot air.. so a good street tune may yield lower numbers on the dyno.. but at least its how your car WILL drive.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:28 PM
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I have taken every car out onto the street that I have tuned on the dynapack lately and logged the air/fuel ratio. The partial throttle loading is within 0.1-0.2:1 a/f of what I tuned it on the dyno. I tune for 11.5:1 on the dyno under boost, and on the street it leans out to 11.8~12:1. If you are compotent and take notice of these changes you can tune accordingly.

As far as the under hood temperature and coolant temperatures goes, I can regulate them very close to what is encounter on the street. I have a 4 fan set-up. Two 13,000 cfm fans blowing crossflow onto the engine bay, 15,000 cfm fan blowing onto the intercooler/radiator and a 5,000 cfm fan underneath the car. Its not going to give the exact aerodynamic airflow/loading that the car encounters, but I have taken note of the air/fuel changes and I can tune accordingly. Repeatibility and consistency are the largest factors when doing all the tuning on a dyno. I keep the coolant temperature between 185-190 degrees, and IAT's between 80-105 degrees pretty accurately which is what I log on the street.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:37 PM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have taken every car out onto the street that I have tuned on the dynapack lately and logged the air/fuel ratio. The partial throttle loading is within 0.1-0.2:1 a/f of what I tuned it on the dyno. I tune for 11.5:1 on the dyno under boost, and on the street it leans out to 11.8~12:1. If you are compotent and take notice of these changes you can tune accordingly.

As far as the under hood temperature and coolant temperatures goes, I can regulate them very close to what is encounter on the street. I have a 4 fan set-up. Two 13,000 cfm fans blowing crossflow onto the engine bay, 15,000 cfm fan blowing onto the intercooler/radiator and a 5,000 cfm fan underneath the car. Its not going to give the exact aerodynamic airflow/loading that the car encounters, but I have taken note of the air/fuel changes and I can tune accordingly. Repeatibility and consistency are the largest factors when doing all the tuning on a dyno. I keep the coolant temperature between 185-190 degrees, and IAT's between 80-105 degrees pretty accurately which is what I log on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>


so it sounds like tuning on dyno is what you recommend since you can almost mimic real street driving?
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:50 PM
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Default Re: (-iLLuZioN-B18C1)

You can only tune on a dyno that allows for steady-state tuning to be performed. The dynapack dyno can simulate load, or hold the engine at a fixed rpm while you manipulate the load with the throttle. I only perfer doing the tuning on the dyno since I can tune the car in a fixed enviroment, and be able to monitor the changes. I have noticed that all the tunes that i have done in the steady-state operation yield incredibly smooth fuel/timing maps since I can accurately tune each fuel/timing amount. This is something that is almost impossible with actual street tuning. To hold the engine at a fixed rpm, or load point is dangerous from a driving standpoint and to simulate loading much time must be spent driving up hills.
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:38 PM
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Default Re: (boosted hybrid)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have noticed that all the tunes that i have done in the steady-state operation yield incredibly smooth fuel/timing maps since I can accurately tune each fuel/timing amount. This is something that is almost impossible with actual street tuning. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Bullshit. while steady state dyno tuning is extremely helpful, and probably more safe than street tuning, It will not yeild 'smoother' maps than street tuning will. you can accurately tune a car on the street as well.
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:00 PM
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Is that normally the case that your dyno tuned a/f ratio will lean out my as much as .5/1 on the street? So if you had 12.5/1 ratio you could be in trouble?
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Old 06-16-2004, 05:04 AM
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mase &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bullshit. while steady state dyno tuning is extremely helpful, and probably more safe than street tuning, It will not yeild 'smoother' maps than street tuning will. you can accurately tune a car on the street as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I can tune a car accurately on the street as well, but after using the steady-state loading on the dynapack, I realized I can tune each fuel and timing cell and watch my horsepower/torque increase or decrease on the fly. Instead of using the butt dyno to determine if the changes are increasing or decreasing the power/torque at each fuel/timing cell, the dynapack reads out in real time horsepower/torque corresponding to any changes I make in those cells. I have found that I can pick up 2-6ft/lbs of torque in the low throttle conditions which yield an increase in throttle response and driveability. Many of the fuel and timing changes contradict what I used to do while street tuning. The changes that I make yield an incredibly smooth fuel/timing map that you can feel in the driveability of the car much more so than street tuning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that normally the case that your dyno tuned a/f ratio will lean out my as much as .5/1 on the street? So if you had 12.5/1 ratio you could be in trouble?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, this is one of the most important things I learned a few years ago from a dyno tune to a street tune. The lean condition becomes increasingly apparent as the engine loading (higher gear), aerodynamic loading (mph), and airflow increase. I do all the tuning in fourth gear for numerous reasons, one of which is to have the engine operating close to its highest gear loading. I have made a decision about 6 months ago to tune every engine at 11.5:1 a/f to keep the a/f as close to 12:1 on the street as possible. While on the dyno, I only see a 2-5whp loss as compared to running the engines at 12:1 a/f.
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:41 AM
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Default Re: (boosted hybrid)

Very interesting didn't know that.
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Old 06-16-2004, 10:03 AM
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Default Re: (turbozxi)

Theres a big difference between a intertia dyno and a load cell dyno.
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Old 06-16-2004, 10:55 AM
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so by criticing this entire post. 12/1 afr is the ideal for the street?

i was just street tuned and mine runs a flat 12.5/1 afr....thats in a pretty cool temp(tuned at night). so during the day is runs a bit richer i believe (air less/more dense, etc).

or should I be tuned for 12:1?

I guess my question is, am i safe at 12.5:1...or would i be better at 12:1
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Old 06-16-2004, 11:21 AM
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Default Re: (patdemps)

Richer is always safer, so 12:1. But you can run 12.5 to 1 if you really want, just be careful on the gas you use etc...
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Old 06-16-2004, 06:19 PM
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Default Re: (patdemps)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by patdemps &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so by criticing this entire post. 12/1 afr is the ideal for the street?

i was just street tuned and mine runs a flat 12.5/1 afr....thats in a pretty cool temp(tuned at night). so during the day is runs a bit richer i believe (air less/more dense, etc).

or should I be tuned for 12:1?

I guess my question is, am i safe at 12.5:1...or would i be better at 12:1</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you dont knock, and your egt levels are reasonable running at 12.5:1 on the street is safe. The problem is actually detecting knock. If you are not using an EMS such as AEM that has the capability to utilize the stock knock sensor, sort of dynoing the car and see spikes in the torque/hp curves (knock is large pressure fluctations that shows itself in the torque/power curves) its virtually impossible to detect knock.
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