Ha! Finally getting numbers out of this damn dyno!

Here goes: '96 GSR; stock insides; custom kit - T3/4 0.48 stage I exhaust; S-3 compressor. DSM 450cc injectors, VAFC (boost mod), 2.5" exhaust w/ test pipe, etc. etc. etc.

Running approx. 8 psi boost:



That table-flat torque curve tells me something's running out of steam; obviously I would have pulled higher HP if I ran it up to 8k.

Oh yeah and engine is in a CEL condition - primary O2 heater failure so it's running open-loop all the time and doing god knows what to the fuel and timing.

 

should change out that .48a/r housing for a .63a/r

 

Just as I thought.. although a flat torque curve is nice.. i think you'll have better numbers with a .63 A/R exhaust housing. But it's still fun to put down that hp on a street car. Try doing a comparison with a .48 and a .63 if you can get your hands on one.

 

I might just see if I can get the machinist here to open mine up (he makes custom compressor housings for the R&D guys here; I'm sure he could open up my turbine for me) but we've also got loads of random turbo parts laying around. I'm thinking about trying to bolt on this really cool looking KKK turbo that appears to be just a LITTLE bit smaller than a full T4...

 

Not bad.


[Modified by boost killz, 4:23 PM 1/25/2002]

 

Not great either - I figure at 8000 it would extend up to about 240ish (rumor has it mustang dynos measure a bit lower than dynojet but I don't know if that's true or not). With the CEL and all it's hard to tell what state of tune I'm in. I think I need a bigger fuel pump among other things and a 0.63 exhaust housing would probably free up a few ponies up top.

 

Your car runs open loop at WOT anyways An O2 cel only affects closed loop operation.

When I had no O2 sensor (fried it), my car hesitated a lot partial throttle... but WOT it pulled perfectly.

Dustin

 

yeah, get a .63 exhaust...and be happy...

 

what is the boost mod??? thanks

 

I rewired the VAFC to input the MAP sensor signal instead of the TPS signal - so the "narrow throttle" settings are actually "off boost" and the "wide throttle" is "full boost" and it adjusts fuel for everywhere in between. Works OK with a couple of caveats - one problem is that if you're not at wide open throttle the ECU still runs closed loop even if you're boosting. The other issue is if you're using a missing link or check valve you need a second MAP sensor; if you use a Safeguard or another electronic MAP signal limiter, all you need to do is run a MAP signal "unlimited" (0-5V) into the VAFC "TPS in" and then run the "limited" (0-3V) signal into the VAFC "MAP in". If this doesn't make any sense to you do a search for "VAFC boost mod" and read the old stuff about it.

 

I have a .63 ar that I might be interested in trading you. Would you be interested?

 

How are those Injectors? and how much did it cost you for the injectors and whatever fuel program you use to controll them, also give a little insight on how to install them.

 

i use dsm 440s work straight off the hondata.. the guy who tuned my car just used a resistor box , and some clamps? i think.

 

They've been great; all I use is a VAFC to control them (-40 to -50% at low throttle settings) and I spliced radio shack 10-ohm resistors into the injector wires so they won't fry the ECU. The clips are the same as any OBD-I car which are the ones that RC injectors use as well. I payed $45 for the injectors and like $30 for the wire clips; not a bad deal in my opinion.

 

dbman,

What was your A/F during that run? Try getting it to around 12.7. Also, what size compressor is it? The .63 will help in higher rpms. Good luck!