<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muad’Dib &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we've already played around with it, homie. you were just too busy drinking beer all the time to notice it. </TD></TR></TABLE>


what i wasent listening

 

There are two local Dynojets that already read +/- 10% of each other...LOL

As much as industry standards, that is completely thrown out the window these days.

The more I read about people's feedbacks, results, numbers, etc.. I can grab 5-10 examples of each type of dyno reading 10-15% different within the same brand and type of dyno... Excellent sources are Supra forums with Supra owners visiting like every dyno they find across the country...lol Perfect Dyno queens to help us get a better idea.

Too many things can affect numbers... I know if I left my shop door closed in the winter months, my numbers are 5% lower versus the doors being wide open for a few minutes...LOL I am sure these changes are more dramatic when we compare different shop conditions across the nation.

Dyno are used for tuning, and for the tuning department, I have to say Dynapack takes the win. I can load supercharged Vettes on it and I don't care how much torque or how little rubber it has, it isn't spinning, period. I can hear the engine so nicely without any roller or tire noises, and I don't have to give a crap about people's side exit exhaust or wastegate dumps melting any straps because a Dynapack doesn't use any... All it uses is 7A @ 115 volts and run some water through it with a garden hose to cool it down every few hours. And when you get enough practice, it only takes 10-15 mins to set up a car

 

DP's are cool and all, but dang the hassle of setting it up...
-get your 1/2" air gun and either 19mm or 21mm...maybe wheel lock out of gloove
-jack up car(gotta be exact right height of the two paks)
-put jack stands on case car falls----yikes!!!!
-take off lug nuts
-take off wheels
-now gotta check if it's the same height as the two paks
-move the paks to fit on the hubs of the car and tighten together
-take jack stands off
-lower the jack
-now test and make sure all is go


I believe that's how it's done...

10-15minutes----------hmmm try 16-21minutes PER HONDA per mechanic. and damn kneeling down too...goosh(well our dyno is above ground..so don't really need to kneel so much)!!! multiply by 1.2 if it's 5 lug nuts each tire...by 1.35 if it's 6 lug nuts each tire..... if it's 8 or more tell him to go to the nearest diesel dyno with HUGE ventilations and BIG fans....hence the black smoke... hehe lmao

Anyways we use a dynocom which is comparable to dynojets.... works great!!! I've had no customer complaints about low or high numbers.. all our setups and customer cars run the time consistent with the power we make for them..... and no we don't have to take off the wheels Time is money whether 16 minutes or 21 minutes....even 10-15minutes


Modified by BEEYOND at 8:04 AM 12/13/2007


Modified by BEEYOND at 8:06 AM 12/13/2007


Modified by BEEYOND at 8:08 AM 12/13/2007

 

I think the having to take the wheels off is the lamest excuse in the book for not liking the dynapack. lol Yeah, it's an extra step, but well worth the advantages you get from driving directly from the hub. It's not like you just drive up on a dynojet and start tuning, you still have to strap the car down. Sometimes it's easy and takes 2 minutes, sometimes it's not and takes quite a bit longer. Unless you're doing dyno days with 20 cars at 3 pulls a piece, the setup time is a small part of the job and not worth haggling over.

If i bought a dyno tomorrow, i'd buy a dynapack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the having to take the wheels off is the lamest excuse in the book for not liking the dynapack. lol Yeah, it's an extra step, but well worth the advantages you get from driving directly from the hub. It's not like you just drive up on a dynojet and start tuning, you still have to strap the car down. Sometimes it's easy and takes 2 minutes, sometimes it's not and takes quite a bit longer. Unless you're doing dyno days with 20 cars at 3 pulls a piece, the setup time is a small part of the job and not worth haggling over.

If i bought a dyno tomorrow, i'd buy a dynapack.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

lmao... i was screwing around toner....

 

know what suxs too guys??? when customer tries to blame you for **** you didn't even do. try taking off $4000 wheels and get blamed for a little scratch that you never did. I know there are waivers etc etc that customers sign, but believe me...it suxs to argue with customers about things of this nature. just saying it's better to hassle with less...makes life easier and we know the SC world is hard enough...!!!


really though...if i had the money i'd get either a superflow or DD Only because diesels works great off of them....and yes diesels are big time popular nowadays

 

You can't tune any gangster cars with 2-3 lug nuts on a dynapack lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't tune any gangster cars with 2-3 lug nuts on a dynapack lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>


HOOLLLY **** you are right... ROFLMAO........
I forgot about the brothers' rides!!!

even with our roll on i wouldn't dyno a 2 lug nut car....LMAO I've done 3 lugs!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by servion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Xenocron, is that the new windows DD software? How is it compared to the older dos stuff? (we're still stuck on the dos stuff, its a steep upgrade) It sounds pretty cool!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont have a comparison to the older stuff because I bought mine digital...I am still on the first version and it has a couple of quirks, but I can still get the job done. Its nice to be able to save graphs and email them.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On topic, we've seen between 12% to 16% lower uncorrected numbers from our dyno dynamics and a couple of other dynojets in our same area (usually around 15%).</TD></TR></TABLE>

The reason I use "Shootout mode" is because it puts out higher numbers (what everyone wants) and the first version of software doesnt let you put HP and TQ on the same graph if it isnt in shootout mode. This is corrected in the new version (so i am told).

I tuned a Boosted car yesterday that made 300 in regular mode and 350 in shootout mode.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What ramp rate did you guys use on the dyno dynamics, and what was the run length on the dynapack? The ramp rate can make a big difference in peak #'s. Also, what were the correction factors?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There is an integrated weather station that inputs the corrections, should be displayed (probably unreadable)...there is no more correction factor on the new windows units so I cant make endless changes.

Ramp rate was 20 km/s...or "8F" in shootout mode. I have found with larger power setups, the "4F" ramp rate of 15 km/s isnt fast enough and the dyno flips out a little.

The pulls done on my dyno were done in 3rd gear as well...as the stupid speed limiter was left at 127 mph on my dyno...this needs to be changed

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If i bought a dyno tomorrow, i'd buy a dynapack.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

When I shoped for my dyno, I hammered it down to the Mustang (~$33k), DD (~$41k) and the DP (~$62k).

I choose the DD for a number of reasons.

#1 Mobility. I got the mobility wheels and I can push it anywhere in my shop. I can load it in a truck and take it to the local track if I want. No water hook up or tank to lug around or setup. One single 220v plug and everything else is integrated together.

#2 Cost. It was the middle of the two and included everything. The DD was way more shipping, and it costs $3k plus to have someone come out and set it up and train you on it. The DD rep is in my area, came out the day after I received my stuff and set it up and did the training in one day. The actually missed the build date and brought me the dyno themselves from Kentucky for free as well...I though that was very big of them.

#3 Tunabililty. On every Dynapack I have used, EVERY car that came off the hubs needed to be tweaked on the street. I really felt like it didnt replicate load like I wanted it to. Sure you can get used to this and tune around it...but that turned me off...and DP owners confirmed that fact for me when talking to a couple of them in the past. Every Mustang I have been on the AFRs were dead on from the rollers to the street. When I demo'd the DD, I had the same experience...but miss the VEHICLE SIMULATION mode of the Mustang.

Also, with the fact that the hubs on the DP have no mass it makes it EXTREMELY hard to nearly impossible to hit part throttle low load sections on the dyno. These needs to be done on the street. The DD is a perfect mix with small enough low mass rollers to see things like DET or Misfires in the graph but enough to hold some inertia in low load section and be able to hit ALL cells in the graphs.

DP has always had nice software, and the Dynojet Run Viewer Stuff was kickass as well. DD is still working on their new software and its up there as well. If I didnt have the choice for Digital, I probably would have gone with the Mustang...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BEEYOND &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DP's are cool and all, but dang the hassle of setting it up...
-get your 1/2" air gun and either 19mm or 21mm...maybe wheel lock out of gloove
-jack up car(gotta be exact right height of the two paks)
-put jack stands on case car falls----yikes!!!!
-take off lug nuts
-take off wheels
-now gotta check if it's the same height as the two paks
-move the paks to fit on the hubs of the car and tighten together
-take jack stands off
-lower the jack
-now test and make sure all is go


I believe that's how it's done...

10-15minutes----------hmmm try 16-21minutes PER HONDA per mechanic. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you "believe" that's how it's done, then just shut up. I do it more than 5x a week, and it takes 15 mins at most with enough practice. For a newbie like you, it probably takes you a week anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

#3 Tunabililty. On every Dynapack I have used, EVERY car that came off the hubs needed to be tweaked on the street. I really felt like it didnt replicate load like I wanted it to. Sure you can get used to this and tune around it...but that turned me off...and DP owners confirmed that fact for me when talking to a couple of them in the past. Every Mustang I have been on the AFRs were dead on from the rollers to the street. When I demo'd the DD, I had the same experience...but miss the VEHICLE SIMULATION mode of the Mustang.

Also, with the fact that the hubs on the DP have no mass it makes it EXTREMELY hard to nearly impossible to hit part throttle low load sections on the dyno. These needs to be done on the street. The DD is a perfect mix with small enough low mass rollers to see things like DET or Misfires in the graph but enough to hold some inertia in low load section and be able to hit ALL cells in the graphs.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's good info right there by the way... Anyhow, it's odd that you have to retune the car on the street with a Dynapack.. Because ramp time and load mode basically puts the engine at under every load possible, with wheels or not, it doesn't affect the tune. If you have 90 lb rims and tires for example, then it effectively puts more "load" onto the engine because it takes more power turning them. The Dynapack can load the engine until it falls down it its face, meaning it is tuned with the largest load you can put on it. If the engine needs retuning, then it could be the operator's fault in not setting a good ramp time while tuning.

About the really light loads, yes, it can be a nuisance sometimes because the engine always stalls out when running at a really low RPM on a Dynapack. But overall, I still managed to hit all the cells needed to do a full tune starting off idle with a Dynapack.

 

I am very happy with our MDs constant load, constant force, and constant speed features.

With constant speed i can hold specific RPMS, and use the throttle to raise boost, column by cloumn really getting into some cells where you wouldnt on the street due to wheels spin, but on the track you may, as you can hook up in different ways such as bogging the launch.


i would like to use a few of the others out there but only have about 3 other D-Jets locally we are the only local MD and only AWD dyno for a good ways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tony the Tiger &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's good info right there by the way... Anyhow, it's odd that you have to retune the car on the street with a Dynapack.. Because ramp time and load mode basically puts the engine at under every load possible, with wheels or not, it doesn't affect the tune. If you have 90 lb rims and tires for example, then it effectively puts more "load" onto the engine because it takes more power turning them. The Dynapack can load the engine until it falls down it its face, meaning it is tuned with the largest load you can put on it. If the engine needs retuning, then it could be the operator's fault in not setting a good ramp time while tuning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not retune really but tweak...AFRs seemed to be off by a fixed percent under full throttle. Who knows...I'm sure with a lot more practice, things like that would be minimized...but as many people know who rent dynos, most operators out there havent a clue on the best way to use their large investments efficiently.