Ok so I recently spun a rod bearing and am going to rebuild I found a dart block on eBay I'm considering buying it is 84.5mm bore comes with je pistons gsr crank and eagle, rods I won't be using the rods tho, got 2250$. Nothing is assembled and the block has never been used.
I'm shooting for 600+ hp iv got all the needed parts to achieve that as well.
Sheepey ff mani
Edelbrock vicotrx
Both Warner s366 divided
PTE 1000s
Fuel lab regulator upgraded rail
Walbro pump
PTE 825hp fmic
Built head supertech duals valves retainers and locks gsr cams
However i don't know if I should buy this block and get Manley I beams or sleeve my current gsr and use a ls crank because I don't want to use my old crank due to a spun bearing and I want the ls stroke.. Advice opinions welcomed! Thanks guys
Here is the link
Look at this on eBay:

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US

Dart B18C 84.5mm "272H" Block / JE Pistons / Eagle Rods; Turbo ready Civic

 

I would start with a stock ls block.

You can find em cheap. Get the crank and sleeve it.

That way you know nothing is wrong with it and wont be taking any chances trusting some random person off ebay with 2200 dollars.

 

That was my second concern iv done a million transactions over eBay never had a problem but I could happen anytime.. Maybe I should just send out my gsr block with a ls crank and use what I've got because I also don't wana buy a lsV conversion kit lol. Also about the oil squirters, iv done reading some say keep them some say plug them, this will be primarily a track car when I'm done but I would also like to drive on the street a bit only on weekends.

 

What about CSS'ing your gsr block?

 

Lsv is easy

But if you already have a gsr block then use that

If youre budget is 2000 for a dart block theres no reason not to sleeve.

Theres a few different choices out there. I would advise you to do youre own research on choices and call up different companies

Me myself will be using la sleeves and have them do the job since they are local and have been around for many years

 

Ya iv done tons of reading and debating myself as to what I want to do but today I talked to my machine shop they told me they can send it to GE for sleeves/rough bore and they final bore hone and assemble it (the machine shop) for 1950 which is a good price if your asking me. Which is what I'm pretty sure I'm going to do. Still debating gsr or ls internals tho

 

The only reason I don't wana css it is I want that cast iron strength, and they only guarantee it to 500whp which makes me worry about post 500whp because my goal is 600 but I'd love to make more with future changes, I know people have made a lot more I just feel better about iron and a block guard

Also Another question I did some reading just wana double check...
Ok I wana use my gsr block but I'd also prefer to run ls crank/rods
So, can I run a gsr block with an ls crank/rods and gsr pistons? And all I would have to do is remove the oil squirters rite?
All b series Pistons are the same rite?

 

hit up laskey racing if you aren't gonna assemble it or ar fab

Assembly is key. Make sure your local machine shop has done a lot of import stuff. Taking a honda motor to a domestic shop will cause confusion.

 

They guy at my shop has done a a few Evos motors, I know 2 of his evos which my buddy's own are running over 600whp and I know he's done quite a few b series motors but I don't know anybody personally, just my buddies that Rock evos lol and he is popular around here for motor assembly work, my drag buddies trust him so I will too. Wouldn't let a straight v8 guy handle my investment lol

 

With the cash you have I would just sleeve the GSR and get and LS crank. I would get rid of the squiters because at 600+ you should be running forge internals and they don't need the oil. Also, those injectors might need to be upgraded.

This is kinda like my plan with my build... Minus the sleeve.. Css FTW

 

The DART block takes a lot of prep work. Typically none of the sharp edges have been broken, all of the threads need to be chased, passages within the block need to be cleaned thoroughly as most find debris from the casting and machining processes inside them.

If you take the time to do it right then the DART block will be superior to any OEM block plus with it having dry sleeves replacing them if one is damaged is super simple and cheap.

 

Thanks guys like I said I'm going to go with my shop and I just bought a ls crank and ls manleys last night so it's been decided! Might post up a build thread here soon ish lol thanks guys

 

Can anybody answer my question about the rotating assembly? I read that all bseries aftermarket Pistons are the same
Gsr block+ls rods+gsr cp piston will work properly without contacting anything?
My searches only show people using different oe Pistons

 

You still want to hone specifically for those pistons and gap the rings. The bores between the B-series (except the B20) are about the same at 81mm, but any piston, especially aftermarket, you want to hone and gap specifically.

Not sure where you're searching, but stay away from the NA stuff. Forged pistons need to be honed and set.

 

Yes those Pistons will work.

 

Yea I know pretty sure I stated I have cp's, GE will rough bore my machinist will do final bore and hone, will obviously use new rings for a new build

 

Perfect thanks, I thought so but wanted to double check my info