Thinking about replacing my precision intercooler with a garrett 18x6.3x3 but found this information.

The '400 hp' rating by ATP is 90 hp over Garrett's 310 hp rating, for part number 703518-6015

Why would ATP do that?.

 

Becuse Garret REALLY underrates their. Ores, while ATP gives more of a true rating of what the Garrett can do. Don't ask why, it's just the way Garrett tends to do it

 

I gathered that when from when we were talking about my 500hp intercooler . I think you said it was good for 550whp... Or something like that...

 

How about my Emusa "350hp" cooler? And washers spraying water during the run lol

 

About that... give or take a few.

 

For what???

 

Any advantages to purchasing the 500hp intercooler with the garrett cast end tanks versus having one custom built?

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=INT

 

Nope. Just know that the endtank ends are VERY long, so be sure you can fit them in your application.

 

I need 300-325 whp on a mustang dyno from it and be efficient.

If I can make more power on less boost or have a faster car because I put a bigger cooler id do it. But it's nice to use what's there as well.

Ill get some pics a bit later

I think I'll use water wetter in my coolant as well in spring people have good results

pic of the cooler off car

 

Intercooler size doesn't affect how fast the car is...

The core design might not be too great... which at higher pressures/power levels can be a restriction, you'll see higher pressure drop and reduced flow at higher pressures.

I personally use PWR intercoolers

 

At his rate, though wantboost, he's fine with what he has for his budget. There's no need to go any larger, and for the amount of piping he's using, any larger and he'd have too much of a pressure drop anyway.. He's good.

 

I know, I'm just thinking if the core is rated for 350 (and we know how eBay cores perform) that he might see higher pressure drops given the core design, as well as reduced performance and increased IAT's on longer pulls/spirited drives due to heat soak

 

Touche'.

 

You know how it is Mac :p

From an efficiency standpoint he could use a better core. A comparably sized Garrett or PWR core would be preferable but potentially budget prohibitive.

Sircivic94, can you give us core dimensions of your intercooler and a picture looking through the end tank at the core? If its the core I think it is, then its shitty lol

 

I wish my bumper wasn't flexed on there so tight it would take 2 seconds. (Aftermarket is a tight fit!) I can prob get its dimensions tho.

Ill snap some decent pics. It's not about not being able to afford better pieces but a bang per $ build money spent in the right places.

Will be getting length, width, and pic of the core from inside if possible.

Need 300+whp efficiently and with this turbine it's atleast 12psi I'd say to get there.

 

Intercooler will be tapped out

Best way to tell is with a pre and post intercooler temp gauge... I've seen people ,maintain 5-10* above ambient with a quality fmic at all pressure levels.. when your post temps start climbing you know the intercooler can't keep up

 

Higher pressure is not always a bad thing... It does bring back to where your turbo compressor is operating on the map.

So far, all the Garrett cores were amazing... I think with folks pushing bigger power but on relatively stock-looking front bumpers nowadays, the frontal area in which the core is exposed is very little. I would take every advantage I can get to obtain the most efficient core vs area.

Even if you had an Ebay equivalent, it would require a bigger core. The FMIC is never going to receive full airflow on its full core size anyway. This may explain some heat build up during hard pulls on many of the big Ebay cores although by dimensions, they support the rated HP.

 

the_shodan, T3, wantboost:
you guys have the most knowledge ive seen when it comes to turboing vehicles! a lot of the theories and data you guys have just makes things make sense

not sure as to what your talking about, but if you buy it right the first time you dont have to buy it again. personally, i made that mistake and that is why im stuck with two turbo kits. one on my car (synapse turbo kit) and another just sitting in my house, which was a bad purchase...it was used.

 

ill have a couple kits as well once i go for the 400+ mark. but it wasnt a lot of money and had fun building it. dimensions of the cooler later! I have a mastercraft laser temp gauge id like to do a run and see the inlet outlet temps. (spring times)

im mature with it I dont do constant pulls or runs trying to push limits I baby it or am extremely hard on it for 12ish seconds lol

thx for the help

 

if only your sentence structure was more mature...sorry i just had to do it


as for pushing limits, i think your pushing the limits of the stock internals every time you decide to enter boost pressure. but that is a different discussion in its whole entirety.

im not proud that i wasted money on something im not using. lesson learned to just set a goal and get the parts that work to achieve that goal

 

That happens a lot for clients. everyone wants the "sleeper" look, but in trying to do so, there are many instances where they don't get the power and performance they need because they aren't giving the core enough area to exchange air.

 

Pointing a temp gun at the piping after you've done a pull won't work. You need to see real time temperature data of the airflow INSIDE the piping

 

Haha oh! Lol every time I hit boost it's dangerous? The engine loves boost! Super safe b16 tune. Time to amp it up or rebuild.

& my spare kit would be for my other hatch.

 

Actually, it is, though you don't necessary, "see" or "feel" the problem. I think that right now that you're so happy to be boosting at all, that in some respects you don't realize that you could make the setup even more beneficial for you without necessarily increasing boost pressure.

This is a technical forum, so what happens is that people attempt to get the MOST that they can out of their setup, even if it doesn't mean an automatic increase in power (for those that are more meticulous involving other forms of motorsport outside of drag racing).

What you may not realize is that even though you're on a majority "ebay" setup, there area lot of additions that can be performed with the current setup so that both the engine AND the turbocharger can perform more effectively and consistently without having to take unnecessary risks such as increasing boost pressure. Items like getting a quality intercooler helps exchange hot air from the compressor (yes, as air flow is converted to pressurized air, it does create heat in the process, to about 300 degrees F on average) the intercooler's ability to exchange that hot air for cold air while resisting the condition to have a pressure drop could easily increase power by about 15% just because now IATs are lower and the combustion chamber isn't trying ignite hot air. Its really that simple.

Just because you're not experiencing immediate detonation and engine failure doesn't mean that the system couldn't be improved. But you have to understand that whether or not its 2psi of boost pressure or 50psi of boost pressure, the engine is experiencing increased temperatures within the combustion chamber that need to be addressed.

That's what this whole topic is about... getting better efficiency with what you have.

 

eBay manifold charger intercooler and piping. I want the best for it

So far


Jdm b16a 175 compression across oem piston.
Arp studs
Good drain / oils / oil restrictor
Lots of tuning
300-325whp
CTR cams

That's the plan anyway.

Best I got is 7psi 233whp concervative tune