the car: 2000 SiR, Nissan T-28 turbo running at 7psi, vafc hack with 450cc dsm injectors, jacobs boost timing master. i was hoping to get at least 200hp.

the tuner said that's all my engine could produce since raising boost might do harm on the stock sleeves and suggested other means like adj. cam gears and port & polish.he also said that the nissan t-28 turbo i'm using is small for a b16. also, the weather might be a factor too coz it's warm here all year round and high humidity as well. gas quality is not good either.

baseline run was 158.7 then after tuning with the vafc and jacobs boost timing master it went up to 175.6hp. they told me my a/f now is at 12:1. the timing was retarded 1psi per pound of boost and that may have hurt power as well but they want it to be safe. so it's ok.

btw, why is the line very wiggly unlike some dyno sheet i've seen which is smoother than this?

any comments/suggestions are welcome.

 

that graph looks like what my old vafc hack would have dynoed. Looks liek your breaking up very hardcore in the upper rpm. Get a better fuel system and try her again.

 

looks like its running out of huff in the high end man

 

I assume you mean that the ignition is retarded 1 degree per pound of boost. If so, that is ultra conservative. I believe Hondata's base maps are set at .75 degrees per pound and even they state that's conservative. I personally ran .25 degrees per pound and never heard detonation. There was an old post discussing ignition timing and the VAFC hack. I believe it stated that 4 degrees of initial base distributor retard with .25 degrees per pound on a BTM type device would mimic a conservative Hondata type ignition map.

 

Yep, that's no good. A T28 should be able to keep up with a B16 just fine. Like he said, you're probably pulling too much timing. Port & polish is going to give squat for results, not a good bang for the buck on Honda motors. Then again, you should be able to go 9 or more PSI easily and get that 200 whp, but I think if you take step back, look at the entire setup, you should be able to get a whole lot more from it. Real engine management works wonders.

 

Wow..AutoPlus in the Philippines...I wish I could have went there when I visited last year....As for your dyno sheet, do you happen to know what kind of dyno they use? is it a Mustang dyno, dynoJet ? have you upgraded your fuel pump at all? Looks like your pump is not pumping enough fuel...I hate to say this, but my former all motor b18C1 was dyno'ed at 165WHP and 130ft/lbs with I/H/E and stock internals.

 

my b16 dynoed at 154 w/ no turbo,i think you need to retard your timing only .33 or so per pound.you could even bring the a/f up a tad to around 12.5.

 

I wouldn't touch that A/F, 12.1 is already lean enough, look at your timing. I've always heard .5 degree per psi is a good rule of thumb, so that might help you produce a little more on the top side.

 

and get hondata or something!

 

how many psi's are you running? when i ran the hack i ran my stock 94 si fuel pump with dsm 450 injectors and at 9-9.5 psi i was making 210whp and 193wtq. i think something's wrong with your tuning. i made this with 92 octane gas and 2 1/4" exhaust. and your sleeves should be good up to 10 psi tuned.

 

Get rid of that weak *** T-28!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by freakie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like its running out of huff in the high end man</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup thats cause T28 =

 

Also, P&P the head will be just as hard on the sleeves as upping the boost. Both will just let more air into the cylinder.

 

I know for a FACT that a T28 is not too small for that stock B16. If your had head work, higher compression(or boosting past 16psi on low 9.1 compression) and had a redline of over 8500 then yes that turbo will fall out of its efficency range.

get hondata bro... difference is night and day. your power~band will not look so rough. Because you are in a area that has tons of humidity that may be the problem as well. How much octane do you get there? is the gas quality cheap and cruddy?

If you have a healthy motor and boosting at 7psi with good fuel system and a FMIC and a real fuel management system you should see about +210whp and like 160ish tq.

hth

 

for one thing im not sure if autoplus knows what kinda of tuning an afc hack might need...pulling 1º of timing per pound is quite much...and at28 should have enough air to pull ur power to redline....kepp the timing down too like .25 like whats his face sed and werk ur way up slowly...if u start running rough back down a little...
i made 173whp at 7 psi on my d series and 149 tq....i bet timing is really an issue...if u have a a/f chart that would be nice...

from the chart power look good until boost kicks in...and starts running rough right from when the timing master is werking...

o by the way i kno philip the owner if autoplus in san francisco...super nice guy!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blue-Civic-Hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow..AutoPlus in the Philippines...I wish I could have went there when I visited last year....As for your dyno sheet, do you happen to know what kind of dyno they use? is it a Mustang dyno, dynoJet ? have you upgraded your fuel pump at all? Looks like your pump is not pumping enough fuel...I hate to say this, but my former all motor b18C1 was dyno'ed at 165WHP and 130ft/lbs with I/H/E and stock internals.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're using dynojet.

shermanyang,
i'm running 7psi.


i also think my timing affected the dyno result. autoplus are known to tune conservatively taking into consideration the weather and fuel type. if i only had a standalone fuel management they would have tune it more aggressively.

the highest fuel octane rating we have is 96 BUT it's not really that high, it's just a marketing ploy and it sucks. so i wouldn't be surprised if the 96 octane here is only equivalent to a 91 or 92 in the US.

together with the fuel, the weather plays a role too coz a stock SiR only dyno at 120-130hp unlike in the US it's 139-140hp stock(correct me if i'm wrong) as i saw on various magazines and the net.

thanks for all you comments.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Endless_ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the highest fuel octane rating we have is 96 BUT it's not really that high, it's just a marketing ploy and it sucks. so i wouldn't be surprised if the 96 octane here is only equivalent to a 91 or 92 in the US.

together with the fuel, the weather plays a role too coz a stock SiR only dyno at 120-130hp unlike in the US it's 139-140hp stock(correct me if i'm wrong) as i saw on various magazines and the net.

thanks for all you comments. </TD></TR></TABLE>

damn that suck then if your only really getting about 91-92oct.... i've talked with Turbopanda and he says in Thailand..... (not that far away...LOL) they get like 102octane at the pump... which is great gas.

WTF? why would your B16 only dyno at 120-130? thats like what stock LS dyno at. Could it be the humidity?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
WTF? why would your B16 only dyno at 120-130? thats like what stock LS dyno at. Could it be the humidity?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah its hot as hell in the Philippines....

 

so is 1 degree retard per pound of boost seem reasonable considering the hot and humid weather and bad quality gas?

 

im only getting 148wkw with b18c , t28 turbo as well

@ 6psi