yellowturbo

Ok last winter I removed the head to install a new Intake manifold + a new cam. So... I ordered a new head gasket kit from Honda. There was 3 layers of thin steel and one layer of 1mm of stainless steel.... and my old gasket was only 3 thin steel layers...

SO I was like ok it will remove a bit of compression so what... I installed my head with the 4 layers head gasket.

Last week I noticed that my overflow bottle was full so I removed the prestone from it and I also noticed that there was not enough prestone in the radiator.... oh oh... not again... So I did a test and when I run the car without boosting all is fine until I floor it my bottle will gets full really fast.

Last summer I run the car at 335whp@20 psi without any problem all summer long... my overflow was always empty

So last week I ordered a new gasket and I received, again, a 4 layer gasket with the 1mm stainless steel layer...?? so I removed this layer and I installed the gasket like that ( 3 layers of thin steel ) to get a gasket like the one I was running when the problem was not there.

I came to the conclusion that my O-ring on the top of each sleeves were not able to crunch in the thick stainless steel layer... ( I have a BENSON block )

I hope it will work fine now... I just have to put the water in tonight and see what happens when I will floor it...

what do you guys think about that ?

yellowturbo

bump... and I want to know if Im supposed to replace the copper o-ring every time I pull the head off ??

earl

Chances are you might have to replace your o-ring if the head gasket fails again. It is .041 copper wire.

yellowturbo

well the o-ring are not that flat... a bit round but they are not flat like the sleeves. Im sure that they are still putting a lot of pressure on the head gasket.

I the worse case would it be possible to change them without removing the block from the car ?

Thanks Earl !

ELSpool

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Chances are you might have to replace your o-ring if the head gasket fails again. It is .041 copper wire. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How much of that sits in the block?

earl

You just pull them out with a pic and replace them with another piece of wire. If they are still sticking out, they may be ok.
The actual groove is .030" deep and .037" wide. The wire is tapped in and then stoned smooth. You want the wire to stick out about .009" out of the groove.

yellowturbo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You just pull them out with a pic and replace them with another piece of wire. If they are still sticking out, they may be ok.
The actual groove is .030" deep and .037" wide. The wire is tapped in and then stoned smooth. You want the wire to stick out about .009" out of the groove.</TD></TR></TABLE>

sweet thanks for the help !

too bad I just installed my head last night... but now I know how to replace the wires

SOHC_MShue

Another fun headgasket story for us SOHC's

I hope you get it figured out man.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the D series night mare lol

yellowturbo

well it was the reality for when I was running stock sleeves...

I re-installed the head with the same gasket than last year when it was running fine and the problem is now fixed.

I just hope that it will hold up lol !

USDM 4G VTEC

last time i went to honda they sold me a Z6 headgasket that had 2 layers only instead of 3
just like the 2 layer Y8 gasket..
i swear sometimes they dont get their **** straight