hey guys. i'm buying a gsr oil pan that's pre-tapped that used a -10bung or whatever. idk what that means.

how do i determine what size oil feed / return lines i should use? i don't know how big my oil feed / return lines are, but my friend told me something about getting an "an fitting" or something like that.

any ideas?

 

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personally i wouldnt buy a pre-tapped pan. unless you are using the same mani and dp as the the person you are buying from. different mani's are gonna place the turbo at different positions and heights. also it could depend on whether you are using a ac or non-ac configuration.

im sure you could make it work but it would suck if you bought a line that was too short. you should try to find some people with similar setups as yourself and see what fittings and lengths of return hose you should use.

as far as the line diameter, -10an is the standard. most turbos have 1/2npt oil returns so you would need some sort of 1/2npt to -10an adapter, a line with female -10an hose ends and then a male -10 bung welded to the pan.

do some searching and you should be able to find everything you need. btw what mani and dp are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
do some searching and you should be able to find everything you need. btw what mani and dp are you using? </TD></TR></TABLE>

hey man thanks for the in depth response.
i'm using a greddy turbo kit, it wasn't necessarily complete, didn't have like injectors and intercooler and whatnot, but that's besides the point.
right now, it's just the greddy log manifold and the 2.5 to 3 in downpipe. looks kinda like a "J" .
want me to get some pics of it and post it up?

the only reason why i wanted to buy a pre tapped oil pan is because i didn't want to have the trouble of doing it myself and having pieces of metal and whatnot in the oil pan, and then having to really clean it up and whatnot. i mean, if there's another way that makes it easier to tap it, let me know. it'll save me the trouble of what i'm going to have to do.

let me know man! thanks

 

well im sure people have bought pretapped pans and they have worked, yeah its a pain to have to pull the pan and go have it welded. what oil line are you using? the one that came with the greddy kit? or a steel-braided? since the greddy is pretty much a log mani you could also look at revhard and inlinepro return lines to get a better idea of where the bung should be welded.

if the pan you want is in a similar location then you should be go to go. any pics of the pan ?

my vote still goes to getting your own pan tapped, you are gonna have to pull the pan either way.

 

well, if i were to get it tapped, how would the placement of the tap be determined? i'm having some friends help me install it, and that's pretty much the only downpart of it. everything else is simple.

how should i go about determining this tap placement thing?

 

what i would do is install the mani, dp, dump, and maybe the hotside piping. (these are all things that can get in the way) then mock up the return line. you want it to be high up on the pan, between the oil pan bolts, and in the deep part. make sure the line has a nice downward slope, no kinks and no dips.

mark where the bung needs to be welded, pull the pan, drill, weld and reinstall.

 

yeah that's what i was figuring. . . just so i know where to put the oil lines. . .

i had my friend look at my oil pan. he was the one that was going to tap it, and he said that it shouldn't be a problem because the oil pain is straight, and it shouldn't be hard to tap it.

also what i plan on doing is getting an adaptor on the pan for the oil return line, and then getting an adaptor that connects to the back of the block for the feed line.

how would i determine how big to tap it?

 

pretty sure we us -10an fittings which will require either a 15/16" or 7/8" hole. this is best done with a unibit which can be pricey. are you welding the fitting or using a weldless setup?

 

i'll be going for a weldless setup.

it's still do able right?

also, for the oil feed, i'm getting this adaptor thing that attaches behind the block, got it from arizona forced induction. one of my friends told me to get that. do you think it's legit?

 

bumpp

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1312904

this is a great thread for feed and return lines.

are you getting an oil sandwich adapter for the feed or are you talking about the bspt to npt adapter?

 

well-

there's only one more day til i put on my turbo kit. i think i pretty much did a fair shair of research. thanks for that thread about oil feed / return lines.

i may actually end up getting a sandwich adaptor, seeing as my oil feed adaptor for AZ FI didn't come in. . . maybe it will later today, but it hasn't so far.

what exactly is a bspt to npt adaptor?

 

Easiest way to make a good-sized hole in thinner metal:

http://www.greenlee.com/product/sb1.html

Greenlee FTMFW. I had to make a bunch of holes recently in 1/8" steel for a CNC control cabinet, 2" holes for giant wires. Made life a whole lot easier.


BSP to NPT adapter is a fitting that changes the threads. BSP and NPT are 2 diff thread types. Honda uses BSP, 99.8% of USA sells NPT fittings. Sandwich adapters are your best bet if you don't want to make a cheap oil distribution manifold. A bulky tee hanging from the stock sender is a good way to crack your block.