<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicRyda2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok hows this sound:

CP .020 over 9:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
Golden Eagle Blockgaurd

The head I'm thinking to leave stock, not 100% sure but ill see. will have it resurfaced obviously.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds great to me. You dont have to resurface the head if its not warpped. Have whoever builds the block check the head to make sure its flat and in good shape. I can 18psi with a similar setup as that..it was really really fast.

liam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicRyda2k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok hows this sound:

CP .020 over 9:1 pistons
Eagle Rods
Golden Eagle Blockgaurd
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd skip the blockguard..put the 100 or so bucks towards sleeves but for 14psi you really dont need those either.

 

If you were only wanting 250whp/15psi daily and 300whp/20psi at the track with race gas you would get by without the blockgaurd wouldn't you I have heard more bad things then good about them so would rather run just rods and pistons....

 

I've had great luck with the SRP's. Aren't they just shelf stock'd JE's?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REVHARD_EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've had great luck with the SRP's. Aren't they just shelf stock'd JE's?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. SRP's are a low cost JE with a higher silicon content. The SRP's are better suited for moderate HP applications.

Your best bet is the CP piston, eagle rod combination WITHOUT the block gaurd. For a little over 250hp, the stock block will be fine.

Have fun!
Bryson

 

looks like the lil wee 4 foot jamaican is growing up... course, i cant talk till i boost my poor f22b1 i can feel the love liam i shoulda beaten marc to that turbo of yurs, but oh well... marc will give it a nice home

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. SRP's are a low cost JE with a higher silicon content. The SRP's are better suited for moderate HP applications.

Your best bet is the CP piston, eagle rod combination WITHOUT the block gaurd. For a little over 250hp, the stock block will be fine.

Have fun!
Bryson</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll be using SRP's with my Golden Eagle block guard. 250whp is a "moderate HP application", and SRP's will be fine.
High silicon may also be better suited for daily driving and piston slap is less likely to occur.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No. SRP's are a low cost JE with a higher silicon content. The SRP's are better suited for moderate HP applications.

Your best bet is the CP piston, eagle rod combination WITHOUT the block gaurd. For a little over 250hp, the stock block will be fine.

Have fun!
Bryson</TD></TR></TABLE>

ayayay... i knew this would be an issue: blockgaurd vs no blockgaurd. I heard of people who have run them fine, and heard bad stories too. I need to decide .

 

With proper tuning, a blockguard is not necessary. Just use the extra money for better pistons, CP for example.

 

Yea the "block guard vs no block guard" is just an on going battle.

My thoughts...if you are just going to drop in a block guard and not bore/hone the block dont even bother..waste of your time. But if you are going to weld one in and then have the block honed / bored so the block is in good shape i think its worth it.

To each their own...both ways will work for ~300whp.

liam

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superorb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can feel the love liam i shoulda beaten marc to that turbo of yurs, but oh well... marc will give it a nice home</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehe you slacked!

liam

 

To each their own...both ways will work for ~300whp.

liam

I like the sound of that, no block gaurd for me Boosted Hybrid :I think: was saying that the D series blocks use exactly the same materials in there construction as B series so they should be just as strong.. What are CP pistons?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'll be using SRP's with my Golden Eagle block guard. 250whp is a "moderate HP application", and SRP's will be fine.
High silicon may also be better suited for daily driving and piston slap is less likely to occur.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definetly. The silicon within aftermarket pistons is utilized as a lubricant againts the cylinder wall. The higher content should also (theoreticlly) help durability.

 

im glad we are all on the same boat together...wish it wasnt a sausage fest but o well...i was thinking for myself and my little d15b...je pistons and pauter rods..its not big ballin for me just taking time to get it all done right the first time and saving alot of money by doing the assembly myself...that alone will be the difference in the rods i chose...a little notching is needed with these rods i was told but nothing that would comprimise the ridgity of the block...i like GE's sleeve design with the mid-sleeve bracing....but also like's darton's MOD design where u can replace a indivisual sleeve.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im glad we are all on the same boat together...wish it wasnt a sausage fest but o well...i was thinking for myself and my little d15b...je pistons and pauter rods..its not big ballin for me just taking time to get it all done right the first time and saving alot of money by doing the assembly myself...that alone will be the difference in the rods i chose...a little notching is needed with these rods i was told but nothing that would comprimise the ridgity of the block...i like GE's sleeve design with the mid-sleeve bracing....but also like's darton's MOD design where u can replace a indivisual sleeve.....</TD></TR></TABLE> I gather you are after serious power? How much though ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Superorb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like the lil wee 4 foot jamaican is growing up... course, i cant talk till i boost my poor f22b1 i can feel the love liam i shoulda beaten marc to that turbo of yurs, but oh well... marc will give it a nice home</TD></TR></TABLE>

screw u hippy. I'm 5'4" bish My terbowz ownz y00rs. haha.

nah well I'm probably gonna go with the blockgaurd. not 100% sure. ill see when time comes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eg6turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im glad we are all on the same boat together...wish it wasnt a sausage fest but o well...i was thinking for myself and my little d15b...je pistons and pauter rods..its not big ballin for me just taking time to get it all done right the first time and saving alot of money by doing the assembly myself...that alone will be the difference in the rods i chose...a little notching is needed with these rods i was told but nothing that would comprimise the ridgity of the block...i like GE's sleeve design with the mid-sleeve bracing....but also like's darton's MOD design where u can replace a indivisual sleeve.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Notching is pretty easy. I performed the operation myself today on my D16 block to fit my Eagles. I followed the directions here.
http://www.theoldone.com/artic..._tips/
It's from Endyn so I trust it. 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep and 1/4" tall. It took me about an hour to do and I am **** about that kind of ****. I didn't take any pics, but there are some good ones on the web page above.