Nice looking build

 

waiting on parts for the intercooler and still working on the oil return.* I have bought so many fitting and sets of lines and the turbo just sits too low, I made my own braided line six inches long the goes 90 degrees from the turbo and a straight shot to the oil pan.* Also have a 45 degree angle fitting for the turbo but then the line is slanted upwards.* Both ways it’s no good
*
What I am going to try tomorrow is no fitting on the turbo and 90 degrees from the turbo and slanted down about 10 degrees to the pan.* That is as much of a slant I can get from where the turbo is.

The retarted fitting on the pan its not what I am using, orderd one and should be here today. Its bigger but I will try and force it in there

 

Hey Cevax,

I am not too sure how you turbo is put together but mine (GT3071r) you can spin the center housing so that you and coolant line inlets and outlets can be rotated seperate from the compressor outlet and turbine inlet. That should make it easier for you to make that drain line nice and consistantly sloped toward the oil pan.

 

This has been a total pain in the *** today, My hands are killing me. Working with braided lines is a very painful experience

I cant turn the turbo, there is a notch where the hot and cold side come together and also the waste gate wont work if I turn it. I tried to get a slant and every time it doesn't come out right, if only I could use a electric oil pump from a motorcycle for oil flow.

I called it quit after this


**** IT.... it is what it is, just going to finish the fmic next week, figure out what to do with the intake and tune it.

 

NICE BUILD I BET YOU DIDNT SPEND MUCH EITHER HUH?

 

actually I get a headache every time it think about it, its really high up there

 

man that air fitting in the oil pan is TOOO small.

and the oil drain dips.

its going to smoke...


sucks about the little hassles but things will work out in the end. and you will be way better at wrenching when its all said and done.


FMIC is a really good idea. might as well not even run an intercooler if there is no air going through it.

 

That top mount not using it, its only there so my hood doesn’t sink in when I put the rock on it, since its broken and not bolted on I have to weigh it down so the wind doesn’t blow it away. I have an FMIC but I really want to run the intercooler before the turbo so I bought another set of pipes to be able to do that.

Yea I am kind of pissed on my return, its there right now but I don’t know what else to do to create a slant? The size of the line is about the same size the turbo brought but the line was too big and couldn’t use it. I can buy another pan and make the tap lower but how much lower can I go?………. any ideas anybody???

 

ditch that stupid braided oil return. go get a 3/8's barb fitting that will thread onto that, use a grinder and cut it shorter till it has about .75" of barb and go get some lockrite hose that will slip on the brass barb fittings. I had the same issue with my an fittings I got and I just ditched the whole idea. a shitty return line will only cause more headaches.

 

Huh I see what u mean there, that might work, getting rid of the fittings will save like 3 inches so the hose will no longer have to go up. I can use the hoses from a transmission cooler relocation kit.... THANKS!!

 

yup. good luck man.

 

dont use a 3/8ths hose, too small.


1/2 inch will get the job done.

you should use 5/8ths or larger.

what you have will not work properly.

 

got it, will take the oil pan off on Tuesday if it doesn't rain, make a bigger hole and pick up those barb fittings. Can probably put in the crank key as well since I haven't done that yet.

My inter cooler pipes come in on Monday so I will get that out of the way too

 

I bought a random electric water pump and happen to have a Mazda oil cooler that I was going to use for my 7afe turbo. The oil cooler is small but its design is perfect for what I am trying to do. Instead of tapping the Radiator to run coolant for the turbo I can just run a separate cooling system. I can put the cooler somewhere near the front mount.

Also if I cant do my oil return properly I found a scavenge pump the will get it done. Its a little on the expensive side but I will eliminate that headache.

 

**** it..
It kinks the hose, and its a very minimal slope at best, also the bigger the hose the less the slope is. Just going to use a scavange pump and that mazda oil cooler, only a few companies make them and they are between 200-350. There goes most of my tuning money so yet another delay.

 

no kinks, and its gotta slope the whole way...

cant get around it if u want a good draining turbo that will last a long time and not smoke.

 

I know, the issue is that the turbo is below oil level. If I tap it any lower I am still going to have an issue. So the scavenge pump is the only thing I can do.... thats what they are for anyway. Buying a werx pump its the only one I can find that really looks like it will get the job done.

I was bored at work and drew out how I am going to set this up on Paint ( I didnt have SAI or Photoshop on me so don't hate)

The pump can run dry forever so setting it to power up on ignition 1, mounting the oil cooler and pump on top of the intercooler so it gets airflow. The ratings on the pump.. it can scavenge up to 5 feet and push up to 25 feet vertically and I well more than satisfied with that


Also got the intercooler pipes from CXracing... I think I went too big on these

 

Its common knowledge that I have a CXracing 16g evo Turbo that is good shape new seals, balanced ect but I think this is going to temporary. Anyway I been working on the FMIC

Not happy about having to go from 3 inch pipe to 2.5 but I have no other choise cause that damn HF manifold gets in the way


Also have to get another BOV... still havent decided on what, looking at the HKS SSQV or getting another RFL dont know.

 

Now my goal today was to setup the inter cooler free air, I don't want anything holding it up. They generally bolt onto the crash bar but as you can see I don't have one and since I need space at the top for the oil cooler and oil pump, it needs to sit low.

I am happy the way it came out, it wont win any shows but I could care less. There is nothing holding it up and its very stiff. What I am not happy with was that I had to go from 3 inch to 2 inch to connect to the damn turbo. I will figure that out another day.

Now High quality pics I took with an SLR














Yes the down pipe has cancer... no it doesn't fit and yes I am not using it










Have to buy another BOV and a better coupler for the throttle body


Other random photos




Here is also a better angle on my "its not going to work" oil return. It can clearly be seen why I need a scavenge pump



Still have a lot to go

 

Cranked it for the first time and was welcomed with a massive fuel leak. Turned out to be bad injectors, put stock ones back in and no longer leaked.

I am running the water cooling for the turbo separate from the motor and its ready to go. Not going to go into much details on my water cooling because I will most definitely get severely hated on. I did all my research on the water pump I am using. It can flow more than enough fluid (50psi) and adequate heat range, same with the radiator. Only issue is that it was not designed for cars but they are the best brands and by no means cheap.

Also received my scavenge pump, will set all that stuff up on Monday. Also I am considering on giving Neptune a try on one of them since its so inexpensive and have a couple of p28 ecu's.

 

good work man keep going dont let the little things stop you. i am turboing my car right now and every time i fix or get ahead 2 steps i get knocked back 3 but one day everything will be done and correctly... keep doing u man.

 

whered u buy the engine rebuild kit

 

nice build, get some camber kit or alignment so u can catch some traction and transmission lower bushing, or just get poly urethane for both sides

 

@ticaaal70 .....I didn't buy an engine kit, I ordered everything separately off ebay but Look into FJ Distributers. I ordered the Eagles rods, rings and pistons off ebay and ultimately had to order another set of pistons and rings from FJ because what I got was total ****. Unfortunately I didn't find out until the machine shop called me and pretty much asked "what the hell is this".

Not buying a kit worked out to my advantage though because the crank turned out to be heavily damaged. The bearings the kit would have brought wouldn't have worked, I decided to let the machine shop decide what to do and what brand to use. Unfortunately the same damaged found on the crank was also found pretty much on every internal piece and had to replace everything inside the motor, which is okay since I am more confident on this build because almost everything is new.

Whatever you decide to do, definitely buy a new oil pump. At least for the piece of mind

@russlan44..... Definitely as you can see its eating the inside of the tire. I will fix the rest of the car once the motor gets started.

 

i meant whered you get the kit on this picture?

yea i know im gonna get a new oil pump