I am waiting for parts so I havent done much the last couple of days. Today though I cleaned the motor some more from that water incident installed the radiator and some of the intercooler pipes, I still have to wrap the intercooler pipes but I will do that later. Installed the log manifold with the obd2 downpipe and 16g housing that has the 15psi wastegate. A freind of mine coverd up the o2 sensor plug on top of the manifold since the downpipe now has one. Also that is a stock BOV from a dsm, its good for about 15psi and I probably wont change it until I decide to boost higher. It works well and sounds nice without it being to much, it also dont release all of the pressure. On the stock throttle it gets stuck closed once it goest past 13psi when it purges. I used it on my first turbo and liked it so it stays.




Afterward I just cleaned up and the difficult task of finding and organizing all my tools.



Now so it doesnt get wet again I cover up the motor and put a tire on top so the wind doesnt blow it off

 

Good luck with everything man. Looks good.

 

Hey Cevax,

The build is looking good so far. I have a very similar one a d16 turbo'd, i also have the eagle rods which why i was surprised when you said yours cleared without notching as i had to do some fancy dremel work.

Keep rolling on her, i am planing to get mines on the road for june. See you there.

 

Good luck with the build looks great so far. I'm getting ready to start working on a turbo setup for my EG 4 door.

 

I will post photos when I pull them off the camera.

Getting ready to start it for the first time, waiting for the vtec solenoid and I did end up getting intake manifold. The original manifold is just so ****ed up that I pick it up only for cosmetics so I didn't need skunk or other expensive brands. Will install the blox when it gets here and try to finish my oil feed. I made the stupid mistake of buying a oil sandwich imperial with a metric turbo so now I cant get them to work together. Everywhere I go they just don't have the fittings to make it happen.

but for now going to use the stock injectors, fuel rail and pump and stay off the boost (and hills) for the first couple oil changes and the drive to the dyno. Then just install the rail and injector there

Now what heat range should I get the spark plugs? I was thinking in using plugs from a Toyota MR2 since they fit but the heat ranges for those around 5 the ones I seen for Honda are 7, 8 or 10?

 

Nobody on the Heat ranges
Will just pick up the mr2 ones this weekend.

Going to start setting this thing up


Still have to do all the wiring and clean this thing up, Took this when I was cleaning out the water incident thing

 

nice work so far. I'm thinking of planning a similar build. how much hp do you think you will be able to make with that exhaust manifold and turbo?

 

Hey Cevax,

For Turbo'd engines the rule of thumb is to go 2 ranges cooler than stock and adjust as needed. In the NGK world that is the NGK spark plugs BKR7E-11, I am currently planning use those in my D16Y7 with 25psi and Meth injection.

 

Thans so the stock are 10 right, so the ngk 8 will work.

The 16g evo turbo On the eclipses they can push well over 300 but thats a completely different car but I do believe this build is more than capable on getting those numbers or more. The turbo is set at 15psi with the internal wastegate. Now the manifold is Ok its not fancy and it rust right before your eyes, but it works and survives the weather. I know a ram style will work better but the 3k spool will really help with break in and I can just switch it later.

If your going to build one, figure out what you want and make a budget. I just made a budget and thought I would be able to slap pistons, rods and head, tune it and call it a day... NOPE! It cost me about 2600 for all the parts to build the long block. Thats new everything with a rebuilt and p&p head and another 1200 in machine shop work. Yea its alot for just a longblock (no fuel or EMS) but its still cheaper than a well done stock bseries swap. This motor will also take the abuse I didnt cheap out on anything and only cost 2600 on parts.

Its been a great learning experiance and only hope the end result is worth it.

Power goals= I dont care anymore I wanted 350 to 400 but at this point reliability is my new goal. My fuel cut is 6200 rpm and hopefully it goes past 300 hp.

 

How did you find your 14b? Is it in good condition? I have one I would like to use and for the most part is in good shape, but it has cracks around the wastegate port on the hotside. It seems nobody repairs exhaust housings. They have to be replaced. The problem is, cant seem to find the exhaust housings sold by themselves and these cracks are a common problem on these older turbos. Any suggestions?

wait, my bad, you have a 16g...these are two different turbos I'm assuming? is your exhaust manifold from an eclipse?

 

Yes I have a 16g turbo but I have had a few 14b's some of them have had cracks on the housing. I picked up another one from an obd2 eclipse whith the entire turbo/housing for $80 but did not use the housing just left the cracked one on there. I will take a look to see what I have laying around maybe I have one.

I dont know where my exhaust manifold came from, I got it from somebody. Its a t3/t4 manifold and just using an adapter to get the TDO5 to bolt on there. Everything else to the cat is from an eclipse.

Yes the 16g is a different turbo, with them side by side the difference are pretty great actually. They are also not that expensive, I took a risk on a ebay one for $350 that I took apart and looks good. If it fails I will just go all out and buy a aftermarket turbo.

 

Also the photos on this thread have a 16g turbo with a 14b exhaust housing and downpipe and 8psi gate. I have since changed it to the 16g housing and a 15psi gate witht he new downpipe. I hope with the wideband after the turbo it will work better

 

I'm pretty sure that's a Civic HF manifold with a MHI turbo flange.

 

You are absolutely correct it is an HF manifold, thanks for the input

 

have you actually used the turbo with the cracks in the housing? If so, did this affect the functioning of the wastegate or the driveability of the car in any negative way? I would imagine that as the exhaust housing heats up this would cause the metal to expand and close the cracks some and may not actualy affect the wastegate at all? I dont wanna even try the turbo without knowing, even though the cracks are fairly small. Other than these cracks, this turbo is good to go for a little while longer, so I may still wanna try it.

 

It ran fine with the cracks and the wastegate functioned properly.

Are you already turbo? if so just install it and see how it runs.

 

My Plan tonight was simple to take the throttle body and sensor's from the old manifold and put it on the new one. Then tomorrow all I had to do is prime the oil lines and start it but I ran into a very interesting curve, something I have never seen before. I tried to think of reasons somebody would do this but I just could come up with any.

I think its common knowledge that when a motor is taken apart that everybody knows that some parts are either going to break or cannot be used again. So if you have NO money maybe you should stop trying to make your Honda go any faster... PLEASE. Some low budget builds are actually NO budget build's I guess, because really if you cant afford a $2 gasket than there is NO budget.

A tube of JB weld is about 10 dollars or so and a throttle body gasket is about $2.... I just don't understand why anybody would JB weld a throttle body to the damn intake manifold WHHYYY.... What is the reasoning behind that, it is more work applying that thing and letting it dry than buying another ****ING gasket.... I have NEVER seen a throttle body fall off then why weld it????

Nevertheless as I removed the bolts holding on the throttle & I notice this thing wouldn't budge and then I noticed it and I could not believe it. I tried to break it apart I even put it on a clamp and started wailing on it and no this thing really is welded together.

I expected things like this since I bought a dead abandoned project that just wasn't put together properly and after replacing the motor (keeping the Intake manifold) I found quite a few stupid shortcuts on it and I just fixed them but damn this is just too much.
I tried to salvage what I can but afterward every single sensor broke as well, they literally broke just by getting tools near it. Going to prime every tomorrow anyway and finish the wiring will have to figure my intake manifold dilemma later.

Anyway somebody asked for better quality pictures so here they are







This is what it was when I got it,


couple weeks later


Anyway I am still going to try my best tomorrow to get as much done as possible.

 

Hey dont stress so much about the hang ups. You're making nice progress as far as I can tell. The car looks ten times better than it did before! Keep taking your time with it! It will all come together in due time.

 

Was able to get the oil feed done, the guys over at Indy auto parts had the parts.

Don t ask me how the throttle body came off, I got back to my sis house and her boyfriend had taken it apart and I didn't asked. That saved me a lot of time. Cleaned all the crap off it and bolted it on.

Now outside from some cooling hoses the car can be cranked but before I do so I want to check something.

Look at the injectors those where given to me as stock civic SI injectors but they are also a lot bigger than MY stock SI injectors. Another thing is that they are green, I have never seen green Honda injectors and I am beginning to believe these are DSM green top injectors. They where in great shape until that water incident.

Now if they are DSM injectors... I don't have a resistor pack and don't plan on getting one so I wont start it with these injectors. Now I don't have stock injectors I only have my Denso 565 set so I am just going to put the aem rail and injectors and just tow it to a tuner.

Other than that I went out and bought a store brand oil filter/oil and a mobil oil filter (which is probably just the name) and castrol 10w40 oil. I also got the spark plugs from the MR2's. Its back to work tomorrow but I should have this running soon.

Sorry for the low quality again I only have my cellphone.

 

just a suggestion, but I would repaint that valve cover...a different color too, like silver maybe

 

You should have seen it before, I guess the machine shop felt bad and hot tanked it and painted it black (yea it was that bad) and didn't charge me for it. I had a "nice" one but gave it away when i gave away my stock head.

I was going to buy another one but cant bring myself to pay over $200 for the letters mugen on it and iono about the OBX ones.

 

damn it mustve been pretty bad then. lol well GL, keep us updated!

 

Have to fihure out my oil return, the pan is only about 4 to 5 inches from the turbo and creates a nasty bend

 

FLAMES!!!! haha! Looks better than it did before and I give you credit for the flames cuz thats something different you dont see very often. Looks good!

 

not a big fan of it, this was the valve cover the first motor came with, when I started building this motor I gave the head away to a freind with the valve cover. He then put the whole head on craiglist and another freind of mine bought it (they didnt know each other) long story short I ended up with the cover again. Going to repaint the black one since it looks so bad and this one and this will do for now.

Anybody have a wiring diagram for a d16z6 motor, I search the web but all the ones I found are very low quality cant even read it. (have a chilton manual and didnt help)