wolve

just when was about to go all-nitrous on my '95 d15b7 for experimenting so i won't blow my future K24, i got a hold of a free TD04L-12T.

this is always nice but brings a whole new challenge with it. i plan to boost my d15b7, and slowly turn up the boost till it blows i have 2 more d15b7's laying. so blow one with boost, blow one with nitrous and ride the other one out till i get my K-series.
have been looking around and i will be running
-chipped ecu (chipping it myself, firsttimer)
-crome (maybe pro)
-zeitronix wideband with display (have it already)
- 2" chargepiping (outlet compressor is 2")should i go 2.5"?
- 3" downpipe (looks overkill maybe, but internal wastegate so)
- 3" kteller magnaflow catback
- action clutch stage 1 kit (only boosting till the d15 lets go, so probably not far over 200whp )
- ARP headstuds, are they even necesairy, only boosting till 210/220whp
- Stealthmode Oil feed and drainkit
- new headgasket, is the oem one good enough, is it metal?
- and my big qeustion, since this probably won't go much over 210 whp, are there oem injectors i can swap in? wich will fit a d15b7 without trouble and support a rough 200whp
- probably a fuel pump, walbro 255 or something similair

these questions should not be relevant if this was a serious build, but since this is for ***** and giggles i don't want to spend to much money (draw to much money away from my K-budget) on parts i can't use in the future.....

93supercoupe

sounds liuke uve done enough research, do a lil more and answer ur questions.


I think u should build a kit capable of going on a k series with minor mods becuase u WILL be addicted to boost

ralph11sec

for 200 a 310cc will do ok. but since ure in the market for getting one. get bigger injectors already. like 550 or 440. h22vtecs are 310s.

not2slo128

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wolve &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just when was about to go all-nitrous on my '95 d15b7 for experimenting so i won't blow my future K24, i got a hold of a free TD04L-12T.

this is always nice but brings a whole new challenge with it. i plan to boost my d15b7, and slowly turn up the boost till it blows i have 2 more d15b7's laying. so blow one with boost, blow one with nitrous and ride the other one out till i get my K-series.
have been looking around and i will be running
-chipped ecu (chipping it myself, firsttimer)
-crome (maybe pro)
-zeitronix wideband with display (have it already)
- 2" chargepiping (outlet compressor is 2")should i go 2.5"?
- 3" downpipe (looks overkill maybe, but internal wastegate so)
- 3" kteller magnaflow catback
- action clutch stage 1 kit (only boosting till the d15 lets go, so probably not far over 200whp )
- ARP headstuds, are they even necesairy, only boosting till 210/220whp
- Stealthmode Oil feed and drainkit
- new headgasket, is the oem one good enough, is it metal?
- and my big qeustion, since this probably won't go much over 210 whp, are there oem injectors i can swap in? wich will fit a d15b7 without trouble and support a rough 200whp
- probably a fuel pump, walbro 255 or something similair

these questions should not be relevant if this was a serious build, but since this is for ***** and giggles i don't want to spend to much money (draw to much money away from my K-budget) on parts i can't use in the future.....</TD></TR></TABLE>


I wouldn't bother with 2.5" charge piping.

I would get ARP's and leave the stock HG(it is metal).

For injectors, I would get RC 310's. Those should be perfect. Otherwise, for a cheaper alternative, get DSM injectors (even from an automatic ~360cc i think). Nothing from honda OEM will support 200-220 whp safely.

Everything else sounds good.

Good luck.

Boosted_Rex.

id go with 2" charge pipe via the hot side / 2.5 on the cold side.

As far as injectors go 440's...Dsm 440's they give you a lil room to upgrade besides the 310's and they are cheaper too.

wolve

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93supercoupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think u should build a kit capable of going on a k series with minor mods becuase u WILL be addicted to boost </TD></TR></TABLE>
i know, but i'm very focused on doing something else then regular. street honda's here in the netherland have yet to dip in to tens, by the time i have my K, they'll have. wan't to be different and a k24R with some nice mods and a hidden system with 200+ spray on the street will suprise a lot of people not knowing much about honda

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ralph12sec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for 200 a 310cc will do ok. but since ure in the market for getting one. get bigger injectors already. like 550 or 440. h22vtecs are 310s. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that's something i was thinking. with a good fuelpump (gonna need one for my K anyway) and high fuelpressure. there are NA b-series pushing 200 with 270cc
and rc's are pricey, remember for ***** and giggles

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by not2slo128 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would get ARP's and leave the stock HG(it is metal).

For injectors, I would get RC 310's. Those should be perfect. Otherwise, for a cheaper alternative, get DSM injectors. Nothing from honda OEM will support 200-220 whp safely.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

thnx, rc310's or honda 310's, geuss those are cheaper .
and as for the dsm's, we don't have em in holland. it's rare to see a eclipse turbo here, so they probably won't be that cheap .

dsm's = what changes do you need to make em fit?
h22vtec 310's = do you need changes to make em fit?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jspek_Rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id go with 2" charge pipe via the hot side / 2.5 on the cold side.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is'nt that going to affect airspeed negativly ? or does it give the air longer to cool inside the intercooler ? because the air should be compacter thus needing less room to move.....
explain please

wolve

and

WestSideDave

RyanEJ8

I'd go with 2.5" charge piping. Alot of turbos come with only a 2" compressor outlet, but that air is expanding on it's way out. My SC50 only has a 2" outlet, but I have it going right into a 2.5" pipe via 2" -&gt; 2.5" silicon coupler.

turbotime

in for results!

wolve

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanEJ8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go with 2.5" charge piping. Alot of turbos come with only a 2" compressor outlet, but that air is expanding on it's way out. My SC50 only has a 2" outlet, but I have it going right into a 2.5" pipe via 2" -&gt; 2.5" silicon coupler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, that's the info i'm looking for, i tought 2" was kinda small.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in for results!</TD></TR></TABLE>

that makes 2 of us. since i'm a student. first priority is school now (last year), and funds.
because before all this i need to buy myself something to weld with. i have one, but that one is not very well suited for exhaustwelding and stuff.
i'm not a big fan of letting other people do my stuff, want to do it all by myself with a lil help here and there, remember, this is for gaining experience

qeustion: will the h22a's injectors be plug and play or do i need some mods (other then the fuelmap )?

H22Hatch98

I like it