how many miles does your motor have on it? if you have 100k miles or less then just leave the water pump and oil pump.
also, you can run the stock timing belt and be just fine. you dont need a boost controller, just change the spring on your wastegate to the desired spring so you get the power youre looking for. id say you want maybe 10-12 psi. gauges- eh, you dont NEED them but theyre good to have- if you do decide to get them, you want boost, oil pressure and air/fuel ratio. good to go

 

Yea, for guages go with boost and oil pressure for sure. They are important. Really. If you want to know your afr's then get a wideband, dont bother with the lame afr guages.

Hopefully you won't go with the pillar triple guage pod that screams out "Steal me please!!!!"

 

my motor is at 72,000 miles
What kind of spring does a 44mm Tial Wastegate come with?

As for gauges,i actually had those in mind..
Diffentley not a pillar pod..I still dont know where to mount them,but i do want to have them in sight and some what hidden,or just not exposed to people passing by...

So i dont need a Wideband o2??

 

tial comes with whatever pound spring you want.

 

i would def get a wideband worth every penny

 

your tial box should have boxes on the side with different bar ratings (.5bar, .7bar, 1bar, etc) and one of the boxes will be checked- indicating what lb spring is currently in the wastegate. roughly .5bar = 7psi and 1bar =15psi but you can look up the exact bar and psi ratings.
as for your gauges, hayame makes a really good bezel thats relatively cheap. it goes in your glove box and then flushmounts to the curvature. then you just drill holes in the bottom/back of your glovebox and run your wires/hose through. ill take and post some pics of mine later. autometer gauges work fine, you dont need anything fancy so the phantom series will work just fine, cobalt is a lot more expensive generally but looks prettier in the dark.
you dont NEED a wideband o2 but its good to have. i think i would sort out your budget more and see what might be more beneficial. also remember that youre gonna want a bottom end gasket kit, a head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, main seal, rear seal, crank micropolishing, hot tanking, etc.
you said you already ordered motormounts right? if not, go with the avid. they are pretty much hasports for all intensive purposes and do the job just as well for half the price. you can find avid motor mounts for around $240-$320 new and way cheaper used.
youre also going to want a catchcan/catch tank. i would go with the moroso (its the same as the endyn for all intensive purposes and 1/3 the price) and then get the tubing from home depot or wherever. greddy makes one too that is supposed to be ok.
your stock ignition should be fine for the most part but if you have issues down the line, youll want to upgrade to an msd digital 6al or digital 7al. dont get the digital 6 or the 6a, get the al or some people also like the msd btm (boost timing master).
i cant think of anything else youll need off the top of my head


Modified by zeimbo at 9:04 PM 2/3/2007

 

i didnt have time to snap any pics of mine. its the same as in the pic tho. i took the silver one, sanded it down a little and then primered it and then i sprayed it a gloss black to match the interior of my teggy.

 

Nice! id like to see it once installed..

Ok so im getting ready to talk to the company that i bought my pistons from and im going to tell them my situtaion and see if i can get a
bigger pistons,regradless of what the mechanic says about seeing if i need to bore,I think its wiser to bore it out and have it hot tanked...but do you think a 81.5 bore is good or what do you recommend for my goals?

Also thanks for the link to the Mounts! Got a great deal..


Modified by JWjDM at 9:03 PM 2/5/2007

 

yea ill see if i remember to take some pics tomorrow cuz i have the day off. you shouldnt bore it if you dont have to tho because boring weakens the cylinder walls (unless you have sleeves). you can still hot tank it tho and make it nice and perty. if it NEEDS to be bored, then either will work just fine.
glad the mounts worked out for you. how much did you end up getting them for?

 

excuse the dirty car, im gonna detail it today probably. either way, you get the point that its sleek and concealed in your glovebox so its not screaming "hey im boosted, come steal me!" ya know?

 

oh yea, and you dont need to wire the lighting for the gauges there if you dont want to as the glovebox light will illuminate the faces. but if you opt for the cobalt gauges, i would disconnect the glovebox light and wire up the lighting for the gauges cuz they are so damn pretty. i also have a carbon fiber gauge cup that mounts to either the dash or ignition/steering wheel plastic cover but its only for a single gauge.

 

i dont get the point of having it and not seeing it.

 

you can see. you fold down the glovebox when you want to look at it or when youre driving, and then you tuck it away when you park your car. rather than having an obnoxious 3 gauge pod on your a-pillar screaming "my motor is sexy, steal me please" with its boost, oil pressure and air/fuel gauges grinning at someone who wants to steal your car

 

Well i just did my taxes and it looks like ill be able to use another 1k so that brings me back up to 2k..after buying these parts below along with
a Moroso oil pan..Ill now be able to hopefuly gather what i need to finish and tune my setup..im now looking for a 3" Exhaust,buying
and having installed the S300,OBDII to OBDI harness,and P28...

However i was looking at the VictorX Manifold
and was looking to make my goal a little more achiveable by adding a better Air flow..
however ive read about this paticular manifold
and they say that it more efficent from
7,000 to 10,000 RPMS...
Now i dont plan on going past 8,200 Redline point..so with that being said will this mani. still be good for my setup?







Modified by JWjDM at 4:57 PM 2/10/2007

 

from where did you buy your clutch and how much you paid ?

 

JHPUSA..$517 After taxes,and Shipping..

 

the edlebrock victor x is good for everybody lol. but you can save yourself some money and go with the skunk or type r as those are gonna be better than stock for sure. as far as 3" exhaust- either kteller or thermal or goto your local muffler shop and have them custom fab something for you. now that you have an extra $1k, save it or save most of it in case there are any hiccups during or after the build. its always better to be over-prepared

 

well,just pm'ed Kteller..
Wanted to know who else is running Kteller
exhaust,and some inputs..I've noticed on there site that they
seem to only make the N1 for Integra's,or does anyone
with a civic have the Kteller with N1 muffler?

is it worth the extra $75 for a 14" Resonator?
meaning,is it really that much quiter?


Modified by JWjDM at 8:33 PM 2/12/2007


Modified by JWjDM at 8:37 PM 2/12/2007

 

gonna be sick

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alex_s817 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gonna be sick </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank's bro...Yeah i cant wait tell its finally all said and done!

 

well after working on the car this past weekend,Removing the engine and getting it ready for the mechanic,Just felt like throwing up some pics..



^^^ Suck



gonna take the flywheel and have it machined


And YES!!! about time my turbo finally came in today along with my Moroso Oil Pan..

 

if you notice on the side of your tial wastegate box, it says .7bar (10.15psi) which is the amount youll be boosting without a boost controller. youre gonna be 300+ whp with that amount of boost, maybe even be somewhere around 330-350whp it depends. everything looks pretty sweet tho, but did you ever find out if your motor needs to be bored out?
nows the time when everyone cleans up their engine bay since its really easy to work with, just in case you were interested. whatd you end up doing with that extra money from your tax return?
oh and btw, you may want to remove power steering. it depends on your taste and how much power youre gonna be pushing, but when you downshift or take off with all that torque and youve got power steering, sometimes your car will be all over the road.
anyways, keep us updated

 

Yeah i did notice the wastegate label,i was bummed when i didnt see any little boxes with different springs like you said,but its cool..im actually looking to make
around 350-400 or whatever i could get out of the setup..

anywho as far as what i did with the money,im saving it for when the tuning time comes..i already ordered my edelbrock IM,so thats on its way and im going with
the Kteller 3" Exhaust...

as for the bore,No..Im hoping that i dont have too but other then that,iv'e heard that about the Power steering so i guess ill be removing it..

 

lol ops. i didnt mean boxes with springs, i meant like a checkbox (like on job applicatiosn where it says male/female, etc). you can buy different spring rates but the springs are like $20-$30 each i think, sorry to give you the wrong impression. but usually there is a checkbox on the side of the box that is marked with the spring rate currently inside the wastegate, yours looks typed.
sounds good, youll be happy with both the edlebrock and the kteller i would think. i hope the bore works out for you tho, otherwise youll have to try to see if you can send them back to where ever you bought them and and get a bigger size or sell them and take a hit so you can buy the bigger size.
and the power steering thing is personal preference, there are a lot of people here who are still running power steering with that much power. im not sure why or how they keep it on the road but they do apparently.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">chipped p28. crome or another free program. find a GOOD tuner, pay him $400 and have fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Worse idea ever!! All that money and all those nice parts.. and use a bandaid ecu.

Get a hondata and pay for 1 or 2 hours of tuning. You will be very happy.

Everything else looks great..