Current status on the B16T Next Step!
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 508
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From: New Jersey
Re: (JWjDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JWjDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well..With the Clutch setting me back 500..
Im thinking about investing the remainding $1500 on having the car tuned with the S300 or S200B.That well problably leave me with
about 600 left!
Figure i get all the little things that Zeimbo mentioned,I really wanted to invest in Valve Train but it doesnt seam like ill be able at the moment.. but would a stock B16 head be reliable with 300-350Hp? i know i wont be able to really push the Rpms like hoped but will they be good up to 9k?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to 9000! There is a reason there is a 8200 redline, unless you want a valve to float and slam into your new pistons. It wouldnt even make power past that without the valvetrain done and some better cams.
Im thinking about investing the remainding $1500 on having the car tuned with the S300 or S200B.That well problably leave me with
about 600 left!
Figure i get all the little things that Zeimbo mentioned,I really wanted to invest in Valve Train but it doesnt seam like ill be able at the moment.. but would a stock B16 head be reliable with 300-350Hp? i know i wont be able to really push the Rpms like hoped but will they be good up to 9k?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not to 9000! There is a reason there is a 8200 redline, unless you want a valve to float and slam into your new pistons. It wouldnt even make power past that without the valvetrain done and some better cams.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 7,913
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From: North Georgia/Atlanta
Re: (eastcoast_ej)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eastcoast_ej »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Forget about Hondata and use crome
with the $ u save you can almost buy a valvetrain</TD></TR></TABLE>
i made 690 on crome but wouldnt go higher than that.
for your goal, which you might as well call 400hp. Crome would be perfectly fine and 750cc injectors, room to grow? get 880's they'll support 550
with the $ u save you can almost buy a valvetrain</TD></TR></TABLE>
i made 690 on crome but wouldnt go higher than that.
for your goal, which you might as well call 400hp. Crome would be perfectly fine and 750cc injectors, room to grow? get 880's they'll support 550
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 102
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From: Whitehorse, Yukon, Canada
so are you planning on having your engine built? I noticed you bought 81mm pistons, did you measure your block to ensure you dont need to bore to the next size? What if you do? it's not like you can just drop them pistons in and call it a day...
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
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From: Ca
Ok so Crome is sounding like a better Route for me...but were is a good place to get Valvetrain? sad to say but yeah since im on a budget as of now im trying to look for some deals on the Valvetrain..
If not Ferrera,what other would you recommend?
What is the really benefit of using GSR cams over B16 on a turbo setup?
Ive seen the diffence between the CTR and GSR,I belive the CTR made about 10HP more then the GSR..
Or Do they just make better cams to tune with?
If not Ferrera,what other would you recommend?
What is the really benefit of using GSR cams over B16 on a turbo setup?
Ive seen the diffence between the CTR and GSR,I belive the CTR made about 10HP more then the GSR..
Or Do they just make better cams to tune with?
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
Re: (JWjDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JWjDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I not doing it my self,im Having my machanic work on it!
so yes if needed to i well have to bore it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what hes saying is that you ordered 81mm pistons, but you might need to bore your engine to 81.5mm, in which case your pistons wouldnt fit and you would need 81.5mm pistons instead.
see if theres any deals in the sponsors section for valvetrain. otherwise ebay or buy the guys a pizza at the local shop and tell them to hook you up. just figure this, if you replace the valves- youre going to need a valve job done on the head which usually runs +-$250. as far as springs and retainers, skunk2 and crower are pretty good imo. i think ferrea is the best, but i decided to go with skunks instead. supertech almost makes a good valvetrain from what ive heard, but ive never tried them myself. i wouldnt run stock valves past 8800rpms even with retainers and springs, but you probably wont make power past that anyways.
you can run your stock b16cams and be fine, gsr cams just yield a little more. make sure you leave some $ for "problems" in case anything happens. that way you can just pay to get it fixed rather than have downtime on your car.
so yes if needed to i well have to bore it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what hes saying is that you ordered 81mm pistons, but you might need to bore your engine to 81.5mm, in which case your pistons wouldnt fit and you would need 81.5mm pistons instead.
see if theres any deals in the sponsors section for valvetrain. otherwise ebay or buy the guys a pizza at the local shop and tell them to hook you up. just figure this, if you replace the valves- youre going to need a valve job done on the head which usually runs +-$250. as far as springs and retainers, skunk2 and crower are pretty good imo. i think ferrea is the best, but i decided to go with skunks instead. supertech almost makes a good valvetrain from what ive heard, but ive never tried them myself. i wouldnt run stock valves past 8800rpms even with retainers and springs, but you probably wont make power past that anyways.
you can run your stock b16cams and be fine, gsr cams just yield a little more. make sure you leave some $ for "problems" in case anything happens. that way you can just pay to get it fixed rather than have downtime on your car.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
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From: Ca
While now awaiting my Clutch and Turbo Kit to arrive..
I recived my other parts..But you guys were right..I dont know what i was thinking when i
ordered the 81mm without even checking to see if i need to bore out to 81.5mm..
hopefuly i dont need to but i know that im better of doing so,well see....
I just wanna say thanks to everyone here on Honda-Tech that has helped me..
I didnt know Anything about Turbo Setup until i came to Honda-Tech..
So thanks for helping and guiding me in the right path..
Modified by JWjDM at 12:25 AM 1/31/2007
I recived my other parts..But you guys were right..I dont know what i was thinking when i
ordered the 81mm without even checking to see if i need to bore out to 81.5mm..
hopefuly i dont need to but i know that im better of doing so,well see....
I just wanna say thanks to everyone here on Honda-Tech that has helped me..
I didnt know Anything about Turbo Setup until i came to Honda-Tech..
So thanks for helping and guiding me in the right path..
Modified by JWjDM at 12:25 AM 1/31/2007
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: JAX, florida, u.s.a
you should put that extra cash into some brakes and rotors...I just did the same thing spent everything on the motor, now slowing down is a bitch everything shakes, and I have all new oem stuff....
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 7
From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: (fooleo's boosted)
I hate to sound like a jerk in any way. But you say you want a turbo/manifold that will support mroe power if you choose. Then you try to get smaller injectors, you don't check your block for problems, you want to 'build' the head...and everything that you ask has been covered at least 10 time EACh in the archives.
Let me just tell you to search for high-power stock setups. You find the weak points, and upgrade accordingly. There was a ~560whp totally stock b16 here a while back. It broke the ringlands after a few dynos and 1/4 mile passes, but it still ran. All they'd need to make that setup 10x reliable is less boost and better pistons. Less is more, esp when you have limited funds.
Let me just tell you to search for high-power stock setups. You find the weak points, and upgrade accordingly. There was a ~560whp totally stock b16 here a while back. It broke the ringlands after a few dynos and 1/4 mile passes, but it still ran. All they'd need to make that setup 10x reliable is less boost and better pistons. Less is more, esp when you have limited funds.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,088
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From: All over ATL
Re: (HiProfile)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=821199
Screw the valve train for now. Trust me. A stock B16 head can take a lot of beating.
You should have sent your block out to Laskey racing. They would've hooked you up on rods/sleeves/pistons/BLUEPRINT!!!
Keep researching what you really need. Not what your read that sounds cool.
Either way...having 7K to blow on building a motor is awesome. I just hope everything is done correctly.
Screw the valve train for now. Trust me. A stock B16 head can take a lot of beating.
You should have sent your block out to Laskey racing. They would've hooked you up on rods/sleeves/pistons/BLUEPRINT!!!
Keep researching what you really need. Not what your read that sounds cool.
Either way...having 7K to blow on building a motor is awesome. I just hope everything is done correctly.
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,887
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Re: (blaze the chemi)
if he wouldve sent his block to laskey, he wouldve seen that $7k disappear a hell of a lot quicker. i agree tho on leaving the stock valvetrain, i would think that youll be shifting around 8200-8500rpms and your stock valvetrain will hold that.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to sound like a jerk in any way. But you say you want a turbo/manifold that will support mroe power if you choose. Then you try to get smaller injectors, you don't check your block for problems, you want to 'build' the head...and everything that you ask has been covered at least 10 time EACh in the archives.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ignore most of this, 780cc injectors are enough to hold 550whp and probably more. anything more than that and youre going to want sleeves for your block. your setup is gonna be fine with the eagle rods and cp pistons. have your mechanic micropolish your crank and check if your engine needs to be bored ASAP. if it does need to bore to 81.5mm then contact whoever you bought the pistons from and explain the situation and im sure they will take care of you.
its ok that you didnt check your block before ordering your pistons, but im under the impression that its currently in your car for daily driving so i see the dilemma and you didnt really seem like you knew to anyways, so lesson learned. youre gonna need fittings for your aeromotive fpr and you might want to pick up a fuel rail. you will want some cross drilled or slotted rotors, you can usually find some unused ones on ebay that someone doesnt need for cheap. i got front powerslots for $65 shipped so maybe you can find something similar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hate to sound like a jerk in any way. But you say you want a turbo/manifold that will support mroe power if you choose. Then you try to get smaller injectors, you don't check your block for problems, you want to 'build' the head...and everything that you ask has been covered at least 10 time EACh in the archives.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ignore most of this, 780cc injectors are enough to hold 550whp and probably more. anything more than that and youre going to want sleeves for your block. your setup is gonna be fine with the eagle rods and cp pistons. have your mechanic micropolish your crank and check if your engine needs to be bored ASAP. if it does need to bore to 81.5mm then contact whoever you bought the pistons from and explain the situation and im sure they will take care of you.
its ok that you didnt check your block before ordering your pistons, but im under the impression that its currently in your car for daily driving so i see the dilemma and you didnt really seem like you knew to anyways, so lesson learned. youre gonna need fittings for your aeromotive fpr and you might want to pick up a fuel rail. you will want some cross drilled or slotted rotors, you can usually find some unused ones on ebay that someone doesnt need for cheap. i got front powerslots for $65 shipped so maybe you can find something similar.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Ca
Hey thanks alot Zeimbo for all of
your help advice..
I plan on having my mechanic start on the block this weekend..but i ask,what kind of driving conditions,or what would cause a my block to get damaged,that would require me to Bore out?
and yes the car is a daily driven and my bro cries when i take his M3..lol but i do have Brembo Cross drilled Rotors..
and as far as Fuel Rail,Which would you recommend?
your help advice..
I plan on having my mechanic start on the block this weekend..but i ask,what kind of driving conditions,or what would cause a my block to get damaged,that would require me to Bore out?
and yes the car is a daily driven and my bro cries when i take his M3..lol but i do have Brembo Cross drilled Rotors..
and as far as Fuel Rail,Which would you recommend?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 619
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Re: (JWjDM)
3" exhaust to match/connect to your downpipe. you need a gasket kit for your motor from honda, use only OEM head gasket and deffinetly get the head studs. after that just tune.....
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
Re: (under_psi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by under_psi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3" exhaust to match/connect to your downpipe. you need a gasket kit for your motor from honda, use only OEM head gasket and deffinetly get the head studs. after that just tune.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
get this stuff as well, you will need it. but you dont need to buy a 3" exhaust system, you can find a muffler shop to do a custom 3" exhaust relatively cheap.
i would recommend the skunk2 fuel rail, unfortunately its not available yet and wont be for a few more weeks. otherwise i would use the aem, aebs, or golden eagle fuel rail- all very good.
get this stuff as well, you will need it. but you dont need to buy a 3" exhaust system, you can find a muffler shop to do a custom 3" exhaust relatively cheap.
i would recommend the skunk2 fuel rail, unfortunately its not available yet and wont be for a few more weeks. otherwise i would use the aem, aebs, or golden eagle fuel rail- all very good.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Ca
I'd like some opinions regarding the 3" exhaust..im thinking of getting one.
is there any sound difference because of the turbo and more exhaust?
If so which have you found to be to most quite of all? I complete understand that any exhaust i pick up will have a higher volume sound and or "louder" sound,but id just like you input on whatever exhaust your using
and how you like it..
is there any sound difference because of the turbo and more exhaust?
If so which have you found to be to most quite of all? I complete understand that any exhaust i pick up will have a higher volume sound and or "louder" sound,but id just like you input on whatever exhaust your using
and how you like it..
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
Re: (JWjDM)
turbo cars are generally quiet, even with 3" piping. its louder if youre running no cat, but you can quiet it down with resonators. its still no where near as loud as all motor with no cat or even 2.25"-2.5" with a hollow cat.
the vibrant performance mufflers (sponsors section or ebay) are about $100-$130 shipped and are supposed to be very quiet. otherwise just use any exhaust and pick up like 2- 18" resonators. as far as 3" piping is concerned, you will see a pretty nice power increase coming from 2.25" or 2.5" (assuming you have a 3" downpipe)
the vibrant performance mufflers (sponsors section or ebay) are about $100-$130 shipped and are supposed to be very quiet. otherwise just use any exhaust and pick up like 2- 18" resonators. as far as 3" piping is concerned, you will see a pretty nice power increase coming from 2.25" or 2.5" (assuming you have a 3" downpipe)
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Ca
Ok i see...And Yes it is a 3" Downpipe..
Today i ordered a
AEM Fuel Rail
ARP Head Studs
and Hondata intake manifold Gasket..
Tomorow ill be ordering the Headgasket,Whoever...I did notice that
you guys said OEM H.O.P. Gasket is the best
to go with,are they really the best even in the case of Turbo setup at 320-380 HP??
im also going to order a Morso 1.6 Oil Pan
replacement along with the Bottom end oem Gasket...
Today i ordered a
AEM Fuel Rail
ARP Head Studs
and Hondata intake manifold Gasket..
Tomorow ill be ordering the Headgasket,Whoever...I did notice that
you guys said OEM H.O.P. Gasket is the best
to go with,are they really the best even in the case of Turbo setup at 320-380 HP??
im also going to order a Morso 1.6 Oil Pan
replacement along with the Bottom end oem Gasket...
B*a*n*n*e*d
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,887
Likes: 0
Re: (JWjDM)
you dont need a moroso oil pan. you can just tap your stock one, cuz im not even sure if that oil pan already comes tapped. i think only the higher end ones ($300) come tapped, but they are neccessary at all.
you may want to read up on arp headstuds, some people have issues with them bottoming out and backing out as well, others say they work just fine. i went with aebs headstuds personally.
yes the oem headgasket is the best. you dont need the cometic and golden eagle only takes the stock head gasket and bores it out anyways. you can copper spray it tho for an even better seal.
you may want to read up on arp headstuds, some people have issues with them bottoming out and backing out as well, others say they work just fine. i went with aebs headstuds personally.
yes the oem headgasket is the best. you dont need the cometic and golden eagle only takes the stock head gasket and bores it out anyways. you can copper spray it tho for an even better seal.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: Ca
Re: (zeimbo)
Ok so ill get the OEM headgasket...
But as far as the Moroso Oil pan goes,I belive the one im looking at does
have the pan Tapped..Besides,mine has a good dent on the Bottom
from when i lowerd my car to much..
I think its the same one Jeremy D. Swain is using
for the same purpose..
http://inlinefour.com/moac1ho1bstr.html
But as far as the Moroso Oil pan goes,I belive the one im looking at does
have the pan Tapped..Besides,mine has a good dent on the Bottom
from when i lowerd my car to much..
I think its the same one Jeremy D. Swain is using
for the same purpose..
http://inlinefour.com/moac1ho1bstr.html
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,527
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, AL
Re: (JWjDM)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JWjDM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so ill get the OEM headgasket...
But as far as the Moroso Oil pan goes,I belive the one im looking at does
have the pan Tapped..Besides,mine has a good dent on the Bottom
from when i lowerd my car to much..
I think its the same one Jeremy D. Swain is using
for the same purpose..
http://inlinefour.com/moac1ho1bstr.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes Sir, I picked mine up from Lightning Motorsports for 129 shipped. Comes with two pre-tapped holes.
But as far as the Moroso Oil pan goes,I belive the one im looking at does
have the pan Tapped..Besides,mine has a good dent on the Bottom
from when i lowerd my car to much..
I think its the same one Jeremy D. Swain is using
for the same purpose..
http://inlinefour.com/moac1ho1bstr.html
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes Sir, I picked mine up from Lightning Motorsports for 129 shipped. Comes with two pre-tapped holes.
