Ok my build
Gsr with Cp 9:1s and stock crank
Eagle rods
B16 head gsr cams
Supertech valvetrain
S300
Started the car it was running super rich so I tried to lean it out a bit with no luck.
Pulled the plugs 432 all had carbon and fuel on them 1 had only fuel, looked like it had never fired.
Next I did a compression check engine was cold no only added a bit oil to cyl 1.
cyl 1:0
2:200
3:200
4:150
So I re lashed the valves in cyl 1 a few times got it to come up to 150.
Leak down test
I only did a leak down on cyl 1&4, cold engine. Both cylinders tested less than 1%-1% at tdc I didn't bother to test 3&4 because they have good compression numbers.
So I thought maybe my base timing was off a bit. Checked it based off the balancer and timing cover looked like it was off a tooth. So I reset the tie timing based off the oil pump and timing belt gear marks which is how I did it the first time. put everything back on and the balancer/timing cover still looked off a tooth just like it did before.
Same compression results and the same leak down results.
Ok so when I line the crank timing mark to tdc my cams are off a bit (due to the motor being timed off of oil pump/timing gear) do I re time it based off of the timing cover and balancer or am I good? What timing marks can I trust? I don't understand what's going on to cause loss of compression.. Thanks

 

Put pins in the cams to lock them in place

Look at the marks on the pump from the wheel well

If that belt has a lot of slack you need adjustable gears

 

When I line it up with the pump the cams are perfectly aligned the belt is nice and tight also this is a new build everything is new

 

Are you double sure about the valve lash on 4? If the lash is off then it could cause low numbers.

Was the oil up to temp before the compression test? Coolant temp doesn't really mean jack. I'm also assuming the throttle was held wide open.

 

I didn't re lash 4 but I did check it and tolerances look good oil temp was air temp maybe 75* and yes done at wot around 6 cranks. I haven't tried to start it since I got my compression up on cyl 1. Would oil temp make that big of a difference?

 

Oil temp is what really gets the internals up to temp.

Double check the lash. If it's too far out then the valve won't totally seal or else something is damaged in that cylinder.

 

Rite I get that, but what could it be with perfect leak down test? I'm going to try and start it tonight or tomorrow day to get temp up then I'll re do all the tests and get back thanks fellas

 

Valve lash or cam timing.

Either can prevent that cylinder from properly filling with air. Low air charge in a cylinder = low compression results but normal leak down since everything is sealing properly. Since it's only one cylinder and you've already had a lash problem on one cylinder I would say double check the lash on 4.

 

This tool really helped me do timing.

Honda/Acura B16/B18 Cam Gear Lock/Timing Belt Installation Tool

Also if you just want to check total engine health take valve lash out of the equation. Either remove the cams or back the lash adjusters all the way off the valvestem. Also where are you checking your lash at? Between the cam and rocker pad or between the rocker arm and valvestem?

 

Checking lash between cam and rocker. Also did compression tests while engine temp was up same results cyl 4 tested 180 cyl 1 still tested 150 didn't bother to re check leak downs because of prior perfect leak downs.. I'm going to have my buddy check possibly re lash cylinders 1&4 just to be sure and re do compression tests again lol.

 

What are you setting you lash to? I do .007 on both that is what I was told to do by a Honda legend so it never did me wrong

 

I did .007/.008
I'm going to use tighter tolerances .006/.007 see if it changes anything and to hopefully help cut down on valve noise. I have an up pipe and I feel I should also mention I can hear a kind of popping sound coming out the exhaust..

 

Now when you say supertech valvetrain do you mean valves,springs,and retainers? Or just springs and retainers? Did you have a valve job done before the head was assembled?

 

was the .007/.008 done as though HOT or cold? I wouldn't go beyond OEM specs if using a stock camshaft (I hadn't checked that part of your thread, sorry) and that won't change the valve noise much

 

I always go with .007/.009 as cold settings based off the obd0 b18a1 specs, and never had issues. A little looser i feel is safer

 

Did you make sure to tension your belt? You never mentioned anything about this. Just putting it out there.

 

Belt is tight and valve lash is done cold. I lashed them at 006/007 don't plan on going tighter, iv read about a some people doing this without any problems so I'm not concerned. Sorry been slow but I haven't had a chance to work on the car since I re lashed the valves but I plan on getting it back together and starting again this weekend. It's supertech springs retainers and locks, and yes I the valve job was done before assembly