chitownrida

lately its been cold around here in the mornings like 10deg... my car is not starting! battery is new, coil, plugs, wires have been replaced.. it starts fine when its a bit warmer.. wondering if the ngk 3330's have anything to do with it


tia

HiProfile

The only real thing the plug heat range does is allow the electrode to disapate more or less heat. Ideally you want it to reach a little above its self-cleaning temp which is like 450F. Too cold and it can foul out, and in the case of Hondas, it will do so unless you run it hard once or twice per trip.

Yes, boosting is DAILY REQUIRED MAINTENACE on a turbo car. lol

Schister66

I'm having this same problem...will switching to a stock NGK plug at stock gap solve my no-start issues??

chitownrida

i'm not sure what to think at this point .. i'm gettin real desperate....... anyone else have any ideas?

96 GSR-T

my car started right up this morning in the high 20's, was choppy until ECT's warmed up but no real issues. maybe you need trim adjustments or something of that nature.

Schister66

My car wont do a damn thing...it will crank, but never starts. It is -5F though...that might not help

I'm also getting very desperate. Its parked on the street and getting tickets every other day. Not to mention, its not blocked in by a pile of snow thanks to the snow plow

HiProfile

More than likely its either your lower voltages and/or IAT enrichment tables that are making it too lean to start. You need a fairly rich mixture to start/run the motor when its that cold out until the heat aides in fuel atomization. Also its the fact that the combustion is weak since lots of the heat is going into heating the sleeve/piston/head rather than burning well.

I'd bet if you adjusted your EMS to give more fuel on cold startup, it would start a little easier. Its basicly how you choke a fuel-injected engine. The converse could also be true - if its too rich, it will start to foul the plugs and kill the spark.


You might want to get a block heater and temporarily wrap it around the outside of the block... sounds like you need to do something to heat it up. You could also try borrowing a friend's propane/kerosine heater, set it in front of the block, and heat it that way.

Schister66

I'm going to put my car in my buddy's garage and point his Nipco heater at it and see if it starts...i know i need to get a retune for the cold weather because of the fuel enrichment or whatever its called. Thanks for the help HiProfile. I really appreciate it

95dc2teg

threads like these makes me feel so lucky and happy that i live in florida! im sorry guys! i feel for you!!

Schister66

you get the good with the bad i guess...ND has no emissions or inspection. I also dont have to worry about getting my **** jacked. On the contrary, its cold as hell up here about 40% of the year

SovXietday

Schister... Crome?

For startup engines need to run fairly rich, so at -5* you need to be adding a LOT of fuel. IAT won't change much in Crome, work with the ECT tables instead. Startup ECT fuel correction tables along with post start up. It's been a while since I opened Crome so I don't remember exactly what needs to be changed but they're in the advanced tables and should take no longer than 10-15 minutes to set them right.

Schister66

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SovXietday &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Schister... Crome? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeppers...i'm probably going to change that soon, but i cant retune on E85 until it changes from winter blend to summer blend in the spring

gettin it

Having the same problem too. But the way to fix it is get a retune if your running crome which im running. Your car is probaly, well running richer. But there is a setting in crome that you can adjust for cold weather, i can't remember right now. But i have to look at mine and see. I did it before.

Schister66

Yeah, the only real option is to get retuned i've been told. I"m going to throw it in the garage and heat it up...then once its all nice and toasty, i'm going to take it to get retuned (4hr drive away )

rorik

Where? I'm in south dakota, and I've never heard of anyone who tunes anywhere around this part of the country. There's dynotuneusa, but I don't think their dyno can even hold the motor at a steady engine speed for tuning. ?

Schister66

^^ I would NEVER go to Dyno Tune USA. Instead i go to Minneapolis. I have been frequenting DB but will probably hit up Consumate for a retune now and E85 tune this coming spring.

wHOAlly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only real thing the plug heat range does is allow the electrode to disapate more or less heat. Ideally you want it to reach a little above its self-cleaning temp which is like 450F. Too cold and it can foul out, and in the case of Hondas, it will do so unless you run it hard once or twice per trip.

Yes, boosting is DAILY REQUIRED MAINTENACE on a turbo car. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

u mean 450C. and if your tuned properly (usually ppl with boosted motors run really/too rich) and have the correct plugs u wont foul them daily driving or w/o hitting boost

G2turbo_terror

Hmmm. Last winter I was running the stock spark plugs/crome on my Z6, never a problem. Now I'm running one heat range colder, retuned on crome and no problems as of yet. It had to be around zero this morning and it started right up as always. No block heater either.

Good info in here to keep in mind though.

I just remembered, BKR7E-11 gapped some where around 0.28.


Modified by G2turbo_terror at 6:27 PM 12/7/2007

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeppers...i'm probably going to change that soon, but i cant retune on E85 until it changes from winter blend to summer blend in the spring </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think I know your problem...

Running E85? Even in Brazil, they need to keep their E85 fuel warm for their mild winters. Flex-fuel cars sold in colder areas also route the exhaust to warm the gas tank, and have a small reserve tank that gets heated just to start the car.

Try removing all your E85, get it warmed however you deem safe, then dump it in and crank till the engine gets warm E85. I'd suggest getting it warmer than room temp, just so the cold gas tank metal doesn't cool it down too much.

Back to self-cleaning temp, I wasn't sure the exact temp, and obviously not the right scale. I knew my words seemed to imply it would foul them w/o boost. I just meant its a bad idea to run a cold plug and never use as intended.

nowtype

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ I would NEVER go to Dyno Tune USA. Instead i go to Minneapolis. I have been frequenting DB but will probably hit up Consumate for a retune now and E85 tune this coming spring.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is not true. Buy a chip burner online for $50-100. For your purpose, I'd suggest a Willem because they are cheap and work great. Moates Burn1 is a better piece of hardware, but $35 more I believe. Then open up Crome, change the ECT adjustments, reburn, and try again. You don't need a wideband to do this. Just let the car warm up more before you drive. Idling lean won't hurt your engine very much. Hell, run rich if you are worried. Either way $100 or less and a few hours you can solve your problem.

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think I know your problem...

Running E85? Even in Brazil, they need to keep their E85 fuel warm for their mild winters. Flex-fuel cars sold in colder areas also route the exhaust to warm the gas tank, and have a small reserve tank that gets heated just to start the car.

Try removing all your E85, get it warmed however you deem safe, then dump it in and crank till the engine gets warm E85. I'd suggest getting it warmer than room temp, just so the cold gas tank metal doesn't cool it down too much.

Back to self-cleaning temp, I wasn't sure the exact temp, and obviously not the right scale. I knew my words seemed to imply it would foul them w/o boost. I just meant its a bad idea to run a cold plug and never use as intended.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it's an issue with the fuel being too cold just get some starting fluid or carb cleaner and spray it in the manifold, it'll fire up. That's what we have to do with the methanol race cars when it's cold.

JaredKaragen

see if a slightly larger gap will help you; but IAT/ECT compensationmight be in order.