likwidchz

Morning,

I'm planning on getting an H22A sleeved for longevity and piece of mind. I really don't want to have ish hit the fan in a year or two. I don't race the thing... I probably wont put a ton of mileage on it in its life time... the goal is just to have it a while without something blasting though the side of the block.

When building a turbo car how does one decide what clearances to run for all the components? Power goals are somewhere around ~500 WHP area.


--Aaron

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

With today's availability of hard parts and good steel, many tend to purchase or create their manifolds/downpipes/dumptubes as a complete system and not individually, as most were created on some sort of engine template where the major components don't interfere with other accessories (to a degree).

In addition, they also run high capacity slim fans on their radiators, in some cases getting a radiator of a reduced overall size but higher capacity.

Third, Chassis. Depending upon what chassis you plan to put your H22 in, the components that you plan to fit must be configured to match as best as possible with that chassis. If not, you instantly run into clearance issues.

Lastly, turbocharger "family" choice has a lot to do with whether or not something will fit better than the other. If one purchases or creates the manifold/downpipe/dumptube around a Garrett, Precision or Turbonetics turbocharger, it may work well with the turbochargers of that family, but not so much with a much longer or larger housing setup like a Borg-Warner.

So. Like anything else. Careful choice of hard components as well as accessories make the difference between it fitting as though it belongs there, or not fitting at all. The more unique the setup, the longer this process will take.

likwidchz

I already have a car I built with an H22A in it. I have all those things memorized on what works and what doesn't. I was speaking about clearances within the engine, piston to wall, ring gaps... basically everything that a stock block won't have... or maybe some of the tolerances are still acceptable to use.

It's in an EG.

--Aaron

h2.4

Depending on piston material of pistons you are using. If cp, je, .004-.0045" on p2w, .019-.023" on ring end gap, .0009-.001" pin to small end, .0017-.0019" on oil clearances for bearings, should be fine. Clearances list recommended from low to medium side, not orientation. Those are the ones that differ from an OEM build on the shortblock, along with the other standard clearances should be checked. Hope this helps. ha ha, I was typing this while you were, I kinda thought those were the clearances you meant though.

likwidchz

I was totally thinking clearances between me and the steering wheel

thank you.

jimbo slice

If you can bend your elbows to 90* and still be able to have a firm grip on the steering wheel you should be fine. If you are extending the elbows to reach the wheel you are too far back. If your bicep and forearm touch you are too close.

Under the seat of every Honda on earth, even h22 powered ones, there is a lever to change seating positions forward and backwards. There is also a lever on the side of the seat that allows the back rest to be moved as well.

likwidchz

hahahahah.. That's fantastic!

--Aaron

jimbo slice

Lol. I'm glad you got a kick out of it. I read your post and immediately knew how to respond. My sarcasm meter has been on high boost today.

To answer the question you originally posted, I'll agree with Hello Kitty about the clearance numbers. Tightest I'll run on a rod bearing is .0015