check engine light won't go off...
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check engine light won't go off... got it!
Hey guys, my engine light has been on since I swapped in a stock b16a2 motor (kept the turbo bolted on)... I suspected that it would be my map sensor because I didn't have the missing link attached, and I'm using the stock map sensor. The ECU told me it was code 3, which somewhere on this forum is a chart that says 3 = map sensor.
I added the missing link, reset the ecu and the engine light is still on. I swapped the map sensor out with another one of the same, reset the ecu and engine light is still on... oh, and I have the P72 GSR ECU if that matters... running the b16 not tuned... I know...
My method of reseting the ecu was to disconnect the +battery for about 15min then reconnect...
any idea's on where to look next? or maybe someone knows the answer?
Thanks for any help...
Modified by turbosi03 at 12:21 AM 1/22/2004
I added the missing link, reset the ecu and the engine light is still on. I swapped the map sensor out with another one of the same, reset the ecu and engine light is still on... oh, and I have the P72 GSR ECU if that matters... running the b16 not tuned... I know...
My method of reseting the ecu was to disconnect the +battery for about 15min then reconnect...
any idea's on where to look next? or maybe someone knows the answer?
Thanks for any help...
Modified by turbosi03 at 12:21 AM 1/22/2004
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Re: check engine light won't go off... (turbosi03)
If it is coding up as soon as you turn the key on it has a wiring problem or a sensor failure. Instead of throwing new parts at the car it should be diagnosed using a factory service manual or helms manual. It could be wired wrong, could be a bad sensor, could be a lot of things.
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Re: check engine light won't go off... (turbosi03)
maybe you didn't reset the ecu correctly. For my civic, from the fuse box I pulled out the 7.5A fuse. Or if yours is a different number, it's the backup radio fuse.
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Re: check engine light won't go off... (civicshowracing65)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicshowracing65 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you didn't reset the ecu correctly. For my civic, from the fuse box I pulled out the 7.5A fuse. Or if yours is a different number, it's the backup radio fuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You dont have to take the fuse out to reset it. You can just disconnect your batter for like a min and it works.
btw, the ecu fuse is 15A, top left corner under the hood.
I also agree that it might be wired wrong or you may have the map sensor and IAT hooked up backwards. But then again, it would run like total ***.
You dont have to take the fuse out to reset it. You can just disconnect your batter for like a min and it works.
btw, the ecu fuse is 15A, top left corner under the hood.
I also agree that it might be wired wrong or you may have the map sensor and IAT hooked up backwards. But then again, it would run like total ***.
#5
Re: check engine light won't go off... (BoostedSi)
I'd say he connected something wrong, or something ain't connected.
I had CEL when I forgot to connect temp. sensor on air intake... may be something similar...
I had CEL when I forgot to connect temp. sensor on air intake... may be something similar...
#6
Re: check engine light won't go off... (Nick7)
Hey my car does this too. Right when i turn the key the cel comes right on. So you guys are saying it could be wiring or map issues.
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Re: check engine light won't go off... (ridnmyhonda)
ok thats cool, I know I'm not alone... Thanks for the info guys, I'll check my temp sensor, and go through the helms manual on map sensor wiring...
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Re: check engine light won't go off... (turbosi03)
ha got it! a dumb one too... I went through the helms to check the map sensor which was fine... then went to check the IAT sensor (wish I did first) and it freakin wasn't there! I just have the piping from the intercooler with no sensor to plug the connector into.
I put a 20kohm resistor across the IAT connector pins to simulate 32 degrees (F), reset the ecu, and the engine light goes off... should I drive like that, or am I better off with the engine light on?
I put a 20kohm resistor across the IAT connector pins to simulate 32 degrees (F), reset the ecu, and the engine light goes off... should I drive like that, or am I better off with the engine light on?
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