hey i just installed my greddy turbo kit on my 2000 civic si and my check engine light came on... i did the ecu thing and checke d the code and it blinked once really long then three short ones... i thinks thasts a 13 correct well i checked the ecu code list on c-speedracing and its saying baro sensor????? what the hell is that?

help please!!!!!!!!

how do i fix this and where is the problem?

 

also my car's idle is falling to like 600 and it feels like its gonna die when im stopped and in neutral.... hellllllllllppppp

 

what boost are you running?

and if its say above 6.5 then it might be your map sensor i know some places call the map sensor the barometric pressure sensor.....so if you do not already own one maybe you should get a missing link bypass valve, get it from overboost.com, its a bandaid for the problem yes but you can atleast drive the car at minimum boost and be semi fast and save money for standalone or AEM ems

 

no man the turbo is completely stock(boost) and i have the intercooler also... would a missing link make this go away????
eddie

 

well it all depends on if thats the check engine light, 13 sounds familiar to map sensor stuff, you could always try it, like i said its a bandaid fix

there is also something you can do, take off the negitive side of the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnect the check engine light will go away and your car should be back to stock settings on the ecu.....

then see if the check engine light comes on again, and if it does remember what you were doing when it happened, cause that will help you figure out what is causeing it,

example-boosting hard, stop and go driving, anything that you can remember wil help


[Modified by pornstarSR, 12:59 AM 5/4/2002]

 

no man i havent boosted at all in the car yet. i only put 17 miles on the cdra so far after the turbo. i heard greddy made a mistake on the wiring instructions? can you help me out here?

 

umm i would if i knew the instructions but im not sure what you have to wire on that kit.....

you said yo uhavent boosted yet, you have to have hit boost once or twice atleast a few pounds, theres no way it doesnt boost.....

try what isaid above and tell me when and what you were doing when the check engine light came on, sometimes the map sensor freaks out when you cross from vacuum to boost.....the map sensor sometimes doesnt like that

 

The evil code 13...I get that code like once a month...and other GReddy kit owners do too...the people I've talked to at least. Just reset the ECU, it's the blue box that is causing this code. Doesn't affect performance, but that light is annoying.

 

trust me man im trying to help,


there is nothing more frustrating then sepnding all day installing something then having it not work and you cant figure out why

 

not to up on this but is your MAP sensor reading the boost..........

 

The blue box is suppose to take care of the map sensor so that it will not see boost. So, it's the blue box that is at fault. I just reset the code and drive again since it seems like mostly everyone with this kit for the Si is getting this code.

 

Lots of SI greddy turbo users have that code. my friend, it happens to him sometimes, then it mysteriously dissapears.

 

Code 13 is the BARO sensor, which is inside the ECU. Don't wory, your ECU isn't bad. What happens is this:

After the car is at operating temperature, the ECU compares the BARO voltage to the MAP voltage under certain conditions (WOT for more than 3 seconds). If the voltage is not similiar, and the MAP seems to be responding to TPS changes, the ECU assumes that the BARO is bad and throws the CEL and corresponding code 13.

What the Greedy "blue box" does is modify the MAP voltage to keep the larger injectors in check. At WOT without boost, the MAP and BARO voltages are different, which causes the ECU CEL.

If I am not mistaken, the kit came with crimp connectors for the install of the blue box. Usually, if you remove the crimp connectors and use solder/heat shrink on these connections, the problem will go away. If that doesn't help, contact Greedy.

Good luck.

 

i called greddy and they said that my injectors are not on tight enough, that air is getting sucked through the injector seals and thats whats causing this problem, also i am not hearing vtec kick in, i think i might be mistaken about vtec cause im used to hearing it through the aem cold air intake, i am definatley feeling boost though!!!!!

anyone think that might be the problem(injectors). any suggestiuons on how to get them in there tighter??? the seals are a little too small and the injectors dont fit in all the way like the stock ones did, you think maybe i can put some blue rtv silicone to create a seal or shouldnt i do that????
eddie

 

I'd think you would get misfire codes if it was dealing with the injectors. I wouldn't put the RTV silicone around the injectors...I don't think that is a good idea.

 

then why would they tell me that?
how do i fix this problem?

 

Hmmm... You told the Greedy folk that you had code 13, and they said the injector seats were leaking?? Fu--ing idiots. The code definitions are available here: http://www.hondata.com/techecucodes.html

Did you solder and shrink wrap all of your ECU connections yet?


[Modified by B20C5 Turbo, 10:52 PM 5/4/2002]

 

I've got a GReddy kit and yes I've got a code 13. Had it for months now.. no real way to cure it, Baro sensor in the ECU isn't agreeing with the MAP, and you'll keep getting code 13's. I've had it with the Missing Link, w/o it, on boost, off boost etc.. I just reset the ECU, and in about 1-2 days it'sback. Just something you learn to live with

 

Same thing I was thinking..

 

A little off-thread, but is the Blue box just resistors that modify the voltage from the MAP? I'm thinking about doing that (for a short while) while I piece my turbo together and then eventually get a better rig...

 

The blue box is *definately* not just resistors. It's more like a preprogramed, unadjustable SAFC. Don't think about doing "that" for any period of time.

If you need to aquire your 'ultimate setup' over time, it is wise to first implement the fuel and ignition solutions before adding boost. IE, purchase the larger injectors and ?Hondata? before you buy a turbo. That way you always have your *** covered.

There is nothing worse than having to purchase an unexpected engine when you are already on a tight budget.