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Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

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Old 07-28-2010, 09:59 PM
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Default Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

2 lines from the valve cover and a line from the black box + a filter on top.

When connecting a line from the catch can to the black box, what is this actually doing and for?
Old 07-28-2010, 10:31 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

That is how I did mine. My line from the my catch can to the black box is my vent/drain line.
Old 07-28-2010, 10:36 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

so having the vent/drain line attached to the black box just puts it back into the block?
Old 07-28-2010, 10:36 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by da_dude
That is how I did mine. My line from the my catch can to the black box is my vent/drain line.
do you have to modify your black box at all to have a line ran from the catch can to the black box?
Old 07-28-2010, 10:46 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

would this make sense...

2 lines to valve cover as stated before..

then one line to pre turbo intake pipe??
Old 07-29-2010, 12:03 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

No. You dont want to burn that **** by pouring it into your turbo. Why not remove the black box? If this is a b series there's two ports on the back of the block you can use
Old 07-29-2010, 09:22 PM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

How many threads are going to be made on catch cans? One thing everyone must understand is that the engine needs PCV. Venting to the atmosphere just relieves crankcase pressure. It does not remove the contaminants that cause dirty oil leading to premature bearing wear. The factory system is the best design, just inadequate for high rpm and big power. The only reason you need to run a catch can is to separate the oil from the vapor before the gas is expelled. Proper baffling in the can does this separation. The oil needs to return to the pan. The gas must be evacuated not atmospherically vented. Weather you pump it back into the intake to be recycled or the exhaust it doesn't matter, its just a small amount of gas right?

There are 3 ports required on every catch can/separator. Vac, Vent, Return.

These setups with 2 or more monster hoses coming out of the valve cover is starting to make me laugh... The vapor comes from the rings (blow-by), not the head. What about the crap in the bottom of the engine lingering above the oil where it does the harm? Are these people relying on convection to evacuate the gasses? If it takes four hoses to relieve the pressure from your block, you should concern yourself with why it is getting under the piston in the first place.
Old 11-17-2010, 07:54 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

nice
Old 11-17-2010, 09:28 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by canibugu
How many threads are going to be made on catch cans? One thing everyone must understand is that the engine needs PCV. Venting to the atmosphere just relieves crankcase pressure. It does not remove the contaminants that cause dirty oil leading to premature bearing wear. The factory system is the best design, just inadequate for high rpm and big power. The only reason you need to run a catch can is to separate the oil from the vapor before the gas is expelled. Proper baffling in the can does this separation. The oil needs to return to the pan. The gas must be evacuated not atmospherically vented. Weather you pump it back into the intake to be recycled or the exhaust it doesn't matter, its just a small amount of gas right?

There are 3 ports required on every catch can/separator. Vac, Vent, Return.

These setups with 2 or more monster hoses coming out of the valve cover is starting to make me laugh... The vapor comes from the rings (blow-by), not the head. What about the crap in the bottom of the engine lingering above the oil where it does the harm? Are these people relying on convection to evacuate the gasses? If it takes four hoses to relieve the pressure from your block, you should concern yourself with why it is getting under the piston in the first place.
Then why do such great companies like T1 sell a full setup that retains no pcv? According to your post this would mean that he doesn't know what he is doing. Correct?
Old 11-18-2010, 04:17 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by canibugu
How many threads are going to be made on catch cans? One thing everyone must understand is that the engine needs PCV. Venting to the atmosphere just relieves crankcase pressure. It does not remove the contaminants that cause dirty oil leading to premature bearing wear. The factory system is the best design, just inadequate for high rpm and big power. The only reason you need to run a catch can is to separate the oil from the vapor before the gas is expelled. Proper baffling in the can does this separation. The oil needs to return to the pan. The gas must be evacuated not atmospherically vented. Weather you pump it back into the intake to be recycled or the exhaust it doesn't matter, its just a small amount of gas right?

There are 3 ports required on every catch can/separator. Vac, Vent, Return.

These setups with 2 or more monster hoses coming out of the valve cover is starting to make me laugh... The vapor comes from the rings (blow-by), not the head. What about the crap in the bottom of the engine lingering above the oil where it does the harm? Are these people relying on convection to evacuate the gasses? If it takes four hoses to relieve the pressure from your block, you should concern yourself with why it is getting under the piston in the first place.
try taking your oil filler cap off an rev up to 5 grand. i would be happy with a negative pressure in my engine. top and especially bottom side.
Old 11-18-2010, 05:15 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by canibugu

These setups with 2 or more monster hoses coming out of the valve cover is starting to make me laugh... The vapor comes from the rings (blow-by), not the head. What about the crap in the bottom of the engine lingering above the oil where it does the harm? Are these people relying on convection to evacuate the gasses? If it takes four hoses to relieve the pressure from your block, you should concern yourself with why it is getting under the piston in the first place.
blowby is unavoidable, esp on built motors with loose clearances. i'll take some blowby over scored walls.
Old 11-18-2010, 05:58 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Venting th crankcase via the valve cover works. It's all bolted togther and the oil passages that's are a decent size that runfrok he block to Theadore Dona pretty good job venting. Personally I hate he back of the block fittings as it almost always results in a catch can full of oil and I refuse to drain it back as it builds up moisture and contaminates the oil. A vacuum on the crankcase would be ideal in a perfect world but in most cases it's not easily done. The best thing to do is run several nice sized lines off the valve dove to a catch can and then hook it into your exhaust down stream this will create a vacuum effect and vent the crankcase in an ideal mannor. You do not want it to go back into the engine as oil vapors reduce octane and promote detonaton
Old 11-18-2010, 06:19 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by canibugu
How many threads are going to be made on catch cans? One thing everyone must understand is that the engine needs PCV. Venting to the atmosphere just relieves crankcase pressure. It does not remove the contaminants that cause dirty oil leading to premature bearing wear. The factory system is the best design, just inadequate for high rpm and big power. The only reason you need to run a catch can is to separate the oil from the vapor before the gas is expelled. Proper baffling in the can does this separation. The oil needs to return to the pan. The gas must be evacuated not atmospherically vented. Weather you pump it back into the intake to be recycled or the exhaust it doesn't matter, its just a small amount of gas right?

There are 3 ports required on every catch can/separator. Vac, Vent, Return.

These setups with 2 or more monster hoses coming out of the valve cover is starting to make me laugh... The vapor comes from the rings (blow-by), not the head. What about the crap in the bottom of the engine lingering above the oil where it does the harm? Are these people relying on convection to evacuate the gasses? If it takes four hoses to relieve the pressure from your block, you should concern yourself with why it is getting under the piston in the first place.
while there are in fact parts that are sold and bought like "electric turbos" etc... the catch can setups that are making you laugh have actually proven to be worth the money....

the amount of smoke coming out of the 3 filters on my catch can if not for my catch can setup would not be coming out of my motor... its pretty simple... these setups work and improve reliability
Old 11-18-2010, 09:47 AM
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Default Re: Is this catch can set up correct and efficient?

Originally Posted by Turbo-LS
Venting th crankcase via the valve cover works. It's all bolted togther and the oil passages that's are a decent size that runfrok he block to Theadore Dona pretty good job venting. Personally I hate he back of the block fittings as it almost always results in a catch can full of oil and I refuse to drain it back as it builds up moisture and contaminates the oil. A vacuum on the crankcase would be ideal in a perfect world but in most cases it's not easily done. The best thing to do is run several nice sized lines off the valve dove to a catch can and then hook it into your exhaust down stream this will create a vacuum effect and vent the crankcase in an ideal mannor. You do not want it to go back into the engine as oil vapors reduce octane and promote detonaton
Well most of the high horsepower cars are running T1 style catch cans with the drain back fittings on the back of the block and don't have issues. I understand what you are saying though.
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