H22Honda98

Also, if anyone is aware of an H22 lovefab mini me eq thats for sale, please let me know. Im picking up an F23 short block this weekend and am building an 87×97 G23 this summer...I have current plans to use my H23a1/F22B head but would prefer to use a vtec head for this if i could. I just can't justify changing my entire exhaust system and any other BS that will come about by changing to a different turbo mani.

H22Honda98

Wish i still had that data sheet. I had these bosch injectors built years ago and have no idea where the efficiency lies. Would just running normal base pressure likely be inadequate for what I'm trying to do? I have no problem just getting new injectors if it's needed.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I think running base pressure is just fine for what you have and what the turbo is capable of performing. The best way to know, unfortunately is when dyno day arrives. Just make sure everything works for now.

k20z1ej1

theyre probably similar to FIC 1100s so if you need a basic starting point for injector data id find a sheet for those

H22Honda98

^^^ thanks fellas.

I took a trip out to Chicago this afternoon to one of the local jdm engine dealers and picked up a 56,000 mile F23A in preparation for the G23 build. It was only $300 so i figured why not just start with something with low miles. Using the 97mm F23 crank and taking the cylinders out 1mm to 87mm will leave me with a true 2.3 liter(2,305cc). Ill be using my F22B DOHC head until i can eventually get my hands on another mini me flanged for an H22 and will be shooting for a CR of 11.5-12.0.

My plan here is to just push this turbo and see what i can make with it on E85. Luckily over the past few years, a couple manufacturers have come about that make forged rods for the F23 that give me options outside of the $1100+ crowers that have been the only option for years. As for pistons.... I've been unsuccessful finding off the shelf, forged f23 pistons. obviously i can have custom pistons made, but my question is since ill now be at an 87mm bore, is there any reason why i couldn't just run an 87mm H22 piston? Anyone know off hand if an h22 piston will work with an f23 rod? I think I've read in the past that pistons and rods must go together but i can't recall. Either way, H22 rods will work so there's a path here somewhere.

also, i had been planning on just running stock sleeves for this build.... but seeing as how CNC Werx offers the CSS process for $325 and i have cheap access to a local machine shop for the deck/bore/hone, i figured id give it a try. Seems like people have had great experiences with it and i just consider it a bit of insurance if nothing else. So, ill be stripping this f23 to the bare block this week sometime and have the block sent to CNC Werx in the next week or so. excited to get everything going!

H22Honda98

Had time to tear the engine down last night to give it a good inspection and get it prepped for the trip out to CNC Werx. Everything checked out great. Cylinder bores and crankshaft look great. Ill probably box it up this weekend and maybe get it shipped out for the CSS process early next week.

scottcraft

Check out kstuned, they have a ton of f series and h series stuff.

https://www.kstuned.com/

H22Honda98

yup ill be using their forged rods (which are priced great) and ordering my pistons through them. Ill likely use their G23 plugs for the oil ports as well. I'm considering deleting the balance shafts and using their block off plates but I'm concerned about vibration... my mounts are stiff as it is and i don't want the car feeling like a tractor. Anyone that's deleted their balance shafts have an opinion on this? How much did it increase vibration?

k20z1ej1

i dont have a before and after perspective but my turbo b18b with 75a mounts has more vibration than my h2b with KS Tuned balance shaft delete kit and 70a mounts. I dont think itll be very noticeable.

Aradin

I have no balance shafts on my F20B and I have innovative 75a mounts. It's noticeable at first but you'll get used to it after a couple drives and think nothing of it. My dash doesn't shake or anything terrible like that. There's just a little bit more vibration in the cabin at idle. Above idle and you can't notice it at all. I can deal with that for way lower oil temps and freeing up 17lbs of rotating mass.

H22Honda98

Awesome, that's good news. Ill go ahead and delete them. The idle won't bother me, i had this image of being at cruising rpm and just feeling it rattle around.

Aradin

Good choice. You won't even notice it while cruising or during normal driving. Plus with aftermarket internals the balance shafts are rendered near useless anyways. From a performance standpoint it's well worth it. They spin at 2x engine rpm and will COOK oil if you're out ******* on it during a track day or doing some spirited backroads driving. I'm running an 11.5lb flywheel with the balance shafts removed and the engine response is immediate. It revs so fast and freely. Between those two mods it's like 28lbs of unnecessary rotating mass removed. It makes a huge difference. The Kaizenspeed kit will give you a small bump in oil pressure too. I've used them in the past and they're nice kits. You can do it DIY for a lot cheaper though.