Boosted d16z6 guys, how high are you reving stock valvetrain?
#1
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Boosted d16z6 guys, how high are you reving stock valvetrain?
I have been shifting at 7300 with a laggy *** turbo and it ends up being a shitty powerband because I fall out of boost some when I shift. Also when I dynoed I made peak power at redline with it still climbing so i know the car would benefit a lot it I could just rev to closer to 8k. I saw some all motors guys are reving to 8200-8500 all day on stock springs and retainers with cams and rocket said the stock springs and retainers on d's are better than the b's and he has taken them to 9200. How high could I try with 15 psi of boost behind them though? Dont worry about me being pissed if I float a valve, ill take the risk, but how high would you take your own motor?
#2
i keep it to the stock 7200. However once i forgot to set the redlimiter in Uberdata, and was revving to ~8300rpm for like 2-3days without having a problem. I wouldnt suggest u try that though..
#3
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Re: Boosted d16z6 guys, how high are you reving stock valvetrain? (omahaturbocivic)
From what I've read, stock heads don't produce power over 7500 like ctr cams would in a dohc head. Part of the prob is that the exhaust profile doesn't change, unlike b-series vtec. All motor guys have bigger lift/duration cams that push the powerband past 7k, its not really the springs limiting redline.
Even if you're falling out of boost after shifting, I still wouldn't recommend shifting over 7500, let alone 8k.
Even if you're falling out of boost after shifting, I still wouldn't recommend shifting over 7500, let alone 8k.
#4
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Re: Boosted d16z6 guys, how high are you reving stock valvetrain? (HiProfile)
Well it made peak power af 7300 and the few times I have unintentionally taken it higher it felt great, it may start to fall off but I still think it would be overall better since I dont hit full boost till 5500 and I have nothing below 5000. Just want to make sure im not gonna bend a valve or worse punch a hole in my cp pistons.
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Re: (USDM 4G VTEC)
i had my rev limit set at 7500 and hit it a handful of times the first week after i installed my turbo. i think anything under 7800 or so is safe as long as your bottom end is equipped, cause of the rather low rs ratio
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#8
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Re: (JDMisGOOD)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMisGOOD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have you thought of running a smaller turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>
That would be the ideal solution for now but I cannot afford another turbo. This current turbo better suits my future hp goals and the motor will just have to be reved higher to accomodate a large turbo if I want to make big power with a good power band. Just wondering if I can get away with it as is.
BTW I took it to 7800 or so several times last night and the car felt 100% better as it was only dropping to 5500 after shifts and keeping 15psi the whole time so I am happy. Hope the valve train can continue hangin in there .
That would be the ideal solution for now but I cannot afford another turbo. This current turbo better suits my future hp goals and the motor will just have to be reved higher to accomodate a large turbo if I want to make big power with a good power band. Just wondering if I can get away with it as is.
BTW I took it to 7800 or so several times last night and the car felt 100% better as it was only dropping to 5500 after shifts and keeping 15psi the whole time so I am happy. Hope the valve train can continue hangin in there .
#9
Re: (omahaturbocivic)
how big of turbo are we talking about? i used to run a t3 60 trim and then went to a t3/t4 50trim .48ar and i kind of had to relearn how to shift faster in order to stay in the meaty part of boost. I just shift fast with the gas at least 1/2 to 3/4 pressed down and then romp on it again when in gear.
oh yeah... i also have my rev limiter set at 7400.
oh yeah... i also have my rev limiter set at 7400.
#10
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Re: (omahaturbocivic)
I wouldn't suggest doing that on a daily basis. I've seen people ruin motors by reving that high on the stock valvetrain. If your gonna do it, don't do it everyday. Not even every week. Save some money and get some valve springs and retainers. Then you can rev higher safely without the worry. You dont want to have a domino effect if you were to drop a valve or something because then you can kiss your entire setup good bye. And that includes your turbo. Just my 2 cents. Good luck anyway yo.
shawn
shawn
#11
Re: (rainmanef)
My rev limiter is set at about 7350 rpms. It acts as my full throttle launch and full throttle shift at the track. I usually hit the rev limiter everytime I drive my car, it sounds pretty cool.
#12
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Re: (beerbongskickass)
I take mine to 7500 constantly. Ive read more then once that the z6 springs are strong enough for 9500 rpms, its just the retainers that are the limiting factor.
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Re: (Dr. D-Series)
before i got the chip i was reving to stock reline at 7300 and now i take it to 7800 with the chip but not daily but that's my spill on it good luck with your build.
#15
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Re: Boosted d16z6 guys, how high are you reving stock valvetrain? (HiProfile)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> its not really the springs limiting redline.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, the springs are what limits your redline aside from how well your rotating assembly can handle the torsional stress that is
you keep running those springs that high over the long term and they will eventually lose their seat pressure little by little until you get that one bastard that either sinks and drops its valve or enters float and says hi to the piston.
get some aftermarket springs...they're cheap enough. Hell, if you could afford to save up and spend money on a turbo setup of ANY kind...even homemade...you can afford valve springs.
get retainers and 10* locks as well if you can. It'll help seal the deal.
Just make sure when you buy springs you get ones that are rated to the rpm limit you want to achieve and the cam lift you decide to go with, if you decide to upgrade your cam at the same time....which wont hurt while you're in their playing around.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, the springs are what limits your redline aside from how well your rotating assembly can handle the torsional stress that is
you keep running those springs that high over the long term and they will eventually lose their seat pressure little by little until you get that one bastard that either sinks and drops its valve or enters float and says hi to the piston.
get some aftermarket springs...they're cheap enough. Hell, if you could afford to save up and spend money on a turbo setup of ANY kind...even homemade...you can afford valve springs.
get retainers and 10* locks as well if you can. It'll help seal the deal.
Just make sure when you buy springs you get ones that are rated to the rpm limit you want to achieve and the cam lift you decide to go with, if you decide to upgrade your cam at the same time....which wont hurt while you're in their playing around.
#16
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Re: (Dr. D-Series)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">7500 here.
Raising to 7800 soon just for the 1-2 shift.
Hit my revlimiter at least 10 times a day.
BTW a set of zex valve springs costs about 160 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where can you get those from.....like a website cause I went on zex.com and i don't see those.
shawn
Raising to 7800 soon just for the 1-2 shift.
Hit my revlimiter at least 10 times a day.
BTW a set of zex valve springs costs about 160 bucks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where can you get those from.....like a website cause I went on zex.com and i don't see those.
shawn
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