Boost+Advanced timing?!
Hey guys I think I have a bit of a problem. First of all, to retard the timing, you pull the distributor towards you? Correct? If not I'm a moron, and that's what the problem is. Anyway, the car runs better with the timing advanced. I'm running 8psi, and just installed my Vortech 12:1 FMU and inline fuel pump. Anyway, we troubleshooted with the timing. When pulled all the way towards us, the car detonates at around 3-4kRPM in 1st and 1kRPM in 2nd. When at top dead center (stock) the car detonates at around 6kRPM in 1st, and 4kRPM in 2nd. Now i'm afraid to advance it, although it SHOULD work fine without detonating... I don't know what to do...any suggestions? Any, and all help is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
Goldfingiz
Thanks,
Goldfingiz
sounds to me your doing it backwards. if it detonated at 1st setting at 3-4k, then 6k w/second setting, move it more that way, it should go away...but for real get a timing light
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Turns out the Euro B16 manual was wrong. It said pull to retard...makes no sense. Anyway, that was the problem. It always ends up being something stupid! We have a timing light and see the 3 lines but not 100% sure what to look for. Anyway, thanks a lot guys.
Goldfingiz
Goldfingiz
When you see the 3 lines the middle is 15 degrees each mark outside of it is either +2 or -2. If you set the pointer on the t belt cover to the middle you will be at 15 degrees.I believe the outside mark towards the front of the car "13 degrees" can be reached by rotating the distirbutor towards you"retard', if you move the distributor away from you the far mark will be reached "17 degrees". I like a timming light with advance so you can put the dial or setting on desired timming and aim at the white tdc mark and as soon as it ligns up your timming is set.By the way try to idle the car under 800 for accurate timming.If I have confused you worse by my lack of writting ability I appologise.Jason
BTW pulling could go either way if you are standing on the passenger side of the car looking at the distributor retard is clock wise, and advance is counter clockwise.
[Modified by littlebluecrx, 2:18 PM 11/22/2002]
BTW pulling could go either way if you are standing on the passenger side of the car looking at the distributor retard is clock wise, and advance is counter clockwise.
[Modified by littlebluecrx, 2:18 PM 11/22/2002]
U WANT TO RETARD 2 degrees for each pound..
that is what i have been told and works for me ..
that is what i have been told and works for me ..
I agree you should be able to run standard timming 15 degrees, for 8 pounds of boost,if intercooled, hell if you lower the compression with a thicker headgasket, or low compression pistons,you can run 15 degrees timming to 20 pounds on race gas easy, with stock ecu. Jason
I have my Zdyne pulling .8 degree's/PSI on my car. I have the base timming set about 15-16 degree's. I think that 2 degree's/PSI would be more of what you take off of the base timing. But that wouldn't work well if your running over 8 psi. Also you would loss lowend driveablity with timming set that far back. See why standalones are nice.
I hear ya, I meant leave the timming at stock with lowered compression, and race gas, low end driveability would be fine, 2 years ago I hide a b16 with a blitz 3 mm headgasket, I ran 18 pounds on 93 octane allmost all year no problems ask ffgeoff. my timming was set at 15 degrees, I used a pms, I took no timming out under boost I actually added timming up too 4000 rpm till 1psi of boost to make the car more responsive.
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