IMPORTant Si

Ok. First off, hello to all the HT Members. I need some help analyzing my problem. To help save some board room and some time, my setup is located here..https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/im-back-after-2-1-2-yrs-dyno-added-2681644/

Here's the problem....

Yesterday I decided to take the Si for a stroll. On the way back to the house, after a couple of quick pulls and a few miles of joy riding, i notice some blue smoke in the rear view. But the car woud only smoke on decel. Or thats what I could see atleast. As long as I was cruising at a steady speed, it wouldnt smoke. Got it home and checked it at idle, no smoke. A small amount of smoke at startup, but if I rev it for a second and release, it'll push out a large cloud when falling back on the tach.

So, with this being said, I thought it could be a couple of things. First thought was the rings. Maybe I had a bad ring, or ringlands letting oil seep through. This would make more sense though if it were smoking while accelerating. But after a compression test, I am reading 1-191, 2-186, 3-187, 4-182. Which looks pretty good. The plugs in 2 and 4 looked healthy, but the plugs in 1 and 3 were a little black.

Second thought was valve seals. But please correct me if I am wrong, but I've always seen valve seals cause the engine to smoke on startup, and eventually quit as it warmed up to operating temps.

Third thought was a blown turbo (meaning seals). I dont know if sitting for 2 years would have an effect on anything, but it's a possibility none-the-less. I pulled the filter and saw a small amount of oil discharge around the compressor wheel opening and inside the filter. Not much though. So I pulled the intake piping from the TB and noticed a small puddle of oil inside the tube, and the TB had some remains as well. I havent pulled the piping to the intercooler, so the amount in the "bottom" of the system is unknown. The turbo DOES have some shaft play. I have yet to research the typical amount for the GT35R, but it seems to have excess. I would say about 1/8 " for side to side, and half that for in and out. It's enough to hear parts moving on the inside when checked. The turbo does have a reducer installed on the feed line. So i know it's not getting too much pressure and blowing past the seals. Keep in mind, this turbo does have less than 1500 miles. But quite a few dyno pulls and street pulls.

With this being said, can anyone shed a little light on the subject for me? Does it sound like the turbo has gone bad? Is there something else I should check or do to better figure out my problem? Or does it sounds like something else could be the problem? Thanks in advance.

-James

LS-turboner

well, if it was your turbo, wouldnt you smoke heavily under acceleration when oil pressure is rising? and if seals are blown, where would this stray oil end up? leak into the turbine or downpipe and burn? thats some shaft play for only 1500 miles. (im assuming since you bought a dart block, you wouldnt buy janky *** ebay turbos.) this is interesting, i will watch this. I love these threads as opposed to "i have a civic. what motor should i get?" or "My CELs on, how do i turn it off?"

sh!ft

when i had a blown turbo on my sti, i pulled the piping apart in different places and i saw how the oil was being passed back into the intake and thats another reason why i kept on blowing my pipes apart lol

IMPORTant Si

Haha. No, no ebay stuff here. This is a Garrett GT3582R from Full Race.

My guess is that it would smoke on acceleration, but with the turbine spinning at faster speeds and heating up, it doesn't allow as much oil to pass through the seal. But while slowing down, the pressure is being released, thus allowing more oil to seep past the seal and enter the intake/exhaust tract. It's no longer flowing faster than the seeping rate. Or atleast this is my philosophy on it. Haha. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

Yes, it is quite a bit of shaft play. But with a recent blown HG, then a stuck thermostat, the car did see a couple of higher temp times. And higher water temperatures doesn't exactly help water cooled turbos. So, I think I might have cooked the turbos seals when the HG popped and thermostat stuck.

But I just pulled the bumper and disconnected the charge piping on the hot side. Oil is everywhere. Looks to be about a 1/4" deep in the bottom of the intercooler. I guess the seals let loose yesterday. And no rebuilds for a ball bearing housing!!!!!! Next thing on the list...., a new turbo. Anyone know where any deals are on the GT3582R?

Thanks,
-James

LS-turboner

you cant send it in to be rebuilt? or are there no rebuild kits for them? that sucks.

IMPORTant Si

No. Bearing style center cartridges are not rebuildable. I could buy a new center cartridge i believe, and install the housings, wheels, and shaft. But after the price of the cartridge, and labor to piece it all together, you're right back up to the same price of a new one. And I'm not a big fan of skimping on parts. You pay for what you get.

The best deal I've found on a GT3582R S cover with a 3" turbine outlet is $1199 + shipping from turboelements.com. Has anyone ever had experience with them? Or does anyone know of a better deal for a new GT35R?

-James

IMPORTant Si

Ok.., maybe my philosophy is wrong. The more I research, the more possibilities I come up with. Seems everyone is against running a 5w-30 oil in any turbocharged applications. They say it breaks down too easy and requires tighter engine tolerances. I'm running Royal Purple 5w-30. I've always used synthetic, but this is a first for royal Purple. Could the 5w-30 be getting past the seals because of its thinner weight? If so, a simple oil change would correct my problem. If someone could shed some insight on this, it would be greatly appreciated. The oil only has about 200 miles on it, and remember, it's about 1/4" deep in the bottom of my intercooler. And temps here in Southern MS stay between say 35 deg and 95 deg.

An oil change is much cheaper than a turbo replacement!!!!!!

-James