Block Guard Installation
I just installed a Blockguard into my B18 B1 stock block.
Now Heres my question. Is it OK to have the guard FLUSH with the top of the block? Or is it REQUIRED to have it 3-4mm down. Because I cannot seem to get the guard to go down further than flush without putting dings in it etc etc.
Please let me know!
Now Heres my question. Is it OK to have the guard FLUSH with the top of the block? Or is it REQUIRED to have it 3-4mm down. Because I cannot seem to get the guard to go down further than flush without putting dings in it etc etc.
Please let me know!
dings? you mean tapping it down. hell tap it in, BUT EVENLY. you might wanna file down stubborn spots. you are installing it before having machine work done, right?
easyest way to do it is super glue 6 nuts, spread them apart so you have equal presure across the board.. then put a board on the screws and rubber mallet it down.. just go slow and easy, then tack the corners, 4-6 tacks are fine..
From a engine building book i have,
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A block guard is a CNC-machined piece of aluminum that is tapped into the top of the block deck, filling all the voids between the water jacket and the free standing cylinders. The block guard is supposed to support the cylinders and keeping them from moving around or cracking. The block guard has holes drilled in it do the cooling water can flow throught it to the head.
The block guard is regarded as a good thing by some people and a bad thing by others. For one theres a lot of misconseptions of how to install a block guard due to some misleading articles in the enthusiast press. One article showed a block guard being installedcompletely assembled motor while it is still in the car simply by tapping it into place with a hammer. This sort of installation greatly DISTORTS the upper part of the cylinder bore by up to several thousandhts of an inch, causing poor ring seal at best and seizing at worst. One very well known Quick class competitor had his block and cylinders crack right at the point of where the block guard was installed, probably because of the cylinder distrotion and the huge stress riser on the block guard created.
If a block guard was to be used, the best way would be to do it the right way and let someone professionally do it. They hand fit the block guardto the block for a close fit before any other machining operations are done. The block guard is then tig welded in place. Skip welding is used to minimize distrotion to the rest of the block. After welding they machine the block deck flat, THEN the final bore machining is done. af the very least, the block bores need to be machined after the block guard was installed. A block guard should never be installed while the motor is still sitting on the car with its head off.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A block guard is a CNC-machined piece of aluminum that is tapped into the top of the block deck, filling all the voids between the water jacket and the free standing cylinders. The block guard is supposed to support the cylinders and keeping them from moving around or cracking. The block guard has holes drilled in it do the cooling water can flow throught it to the head.
The block guard is regarded as a good thing by some people and a bad thing by others. For one theres a lot of misconseptions of how to install a block guard due to some misleading articles in the enthusiast press. One article showed a block guard being installedcompletely assembled motor while it is still in the car simply by tapping it into place with a hammer. This sort of installation greatly DISTORTS the upper part of the cylinder bore by up to several thousandhts of an inch, causing poor ring seal at best and seizing at worst. One very well known Quick class competitor had his block and cylinders crack right at the point of where the block guard was installed, probably because of the cylinder distrotion and the huge stress riser on the block guard created.
If a block guard was to be used, the best way would be to do it the right way and let someone professionally do it. They hand fit the block guardto the block for a close fit before any other machining operations are done. The block guard is then tig welded in place. Skip welding is used to minimize distrotion to the rest of the block. After welding they machine the block deck flat, THEN the final bore machining is done. af the very least, the block bores need to be machined after the block guard was installed. A block guard should never be installed while the motor is still sitting on the car with its head off.
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I was about to drop one in while doing a mini-me, but I guess it's a good thing that I didn't.
I wasted some money on the block guard, but I suppose if I would have installed it, I might have messed up the whole engine. Thanks for the update.
P.S. Is it O.K. if I run a dry nitrous kit without a block guard, and if so, how far should I take it without blowing my engine.
I have a D16Y7 bottom end with a D16Y8 head/p2p ECU and pretty much all the bolt ons you can get.
The nitrous kit I have is a ZEX dry kit that comes with 35, 55, and 75 shot jets. ZEX demonstrated their kit on an EG civic, pushing 178hp / 200fpt on a SOHC with nothing but a cat-back.
Does any one know what engine that was, and would it be safe for a mini-me?
I wasted some money on the block guard, but I suppose if I would have installed it, I might have messed up the whole engine. Thanks for the update.
P.S. Is it O.K. if I run a dry nitrous kit without a block guard, and if so, how far should I take it without blowing my engine.
I have a D16Y7 bottom end with a D16Y8 head/p2p ECU and pretty much all the bolt ons you can get.
The nitrous kit I have is a ZEX dry kit that comes with 35, 55, and 75 shot jets. ZEX demonstrated their kit on an EG civic, pushing 178hp / 200fpt on a SOHC with nothing but a cat-back.
Does any one know what engine that was, and would it be safe for a mini-me?
i just built a d16 and i put one in my block... here is how i did it, if your gonna do it do it right...
pound that punk into the block, then have it tacked into place(use a heli-arc welder) then have the cylinders honed cuz it will distort them. if you dont weld it it can fall down into the bottom of water jacket then it will be useless..
once you pound it in and get it tacked, have the block decked to ensure your head will seal back up.
pound that punk into the block, then have it tacked into place(use a heli-arc welder) then have the cylinders honed cuz it will distort them. if you dont weld it it can fall down into the bottom of water jacket then it will be useless..
once you pound it in and get it tacked, have the block decked to ensure your head will seal back up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say take that BG back out... pos imo
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I agree.. But if you do want to do one then take it to a machine shop and have them install it..
</TD></TR></TABLE>I agree.. But if you do want to do one then take it to a machine shop and have them install it..
wow (just saw your car)... Nevermind what i said before, put in the block guard, buy yourself a sweet-*** SSAC turbo and mani, throw it all in the trunk, add one part race gas and one part motoroil(for flavor) all over the car. Burn on high for 45 minutes or until golden brown and enjoy........RICE!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Benjithx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow (just saw your car)... Nevermind what i said before, put in the block guard, buy yourself a sweet-*** SSAC turbo and mani, throw it all in the trunk, add one part race gas and one part motoroil(for flavor) all over the car. Burn on high for 45 minutes or until golden brown and enjoy........RICE!!!
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Why hate? Some people like flashy interiors...
</TD></TR></TABLE>Why hate? Some people like flashy interiors...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why hate? Some people like flashy interiors...</TD></TR></TABLE>
because he's the H-T Mr. JDM
Why hate? Some people like flashy interiors...</TD></TR></TABLE>
because he's the H-T Mr. JDM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-booster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
because he's the H-T Mr. JDM
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
Don't cry, just a joke
i just think it is SO damn ugly and one day he will think so to
because he's the H-T Mr. JDM
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL
Don't cry, just a joke
i just think it is SO damn ugly and one day he will think so to
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-booster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one day everything we do will look ugly, people will one day look at you and say your ugly, lol. So....enjoy what you have its not forever.
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*looks at icon*
well...people already say I'm ugly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>*looks at icon*
well...people already say I'm ugly.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecpower »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say take that BG back out... pos imo
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You can say what you want about them but some people have had great success and reliablity with stock sleeves and blockguards, myself included. Ran 25-28 lbs all season, 10.1 - 10.5 ETs 140-146 trap speeds, and I even just hammered it into the block after the motor was assembled and in the car...
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can say what you want about them but some people have had great success and reliablity with stock sleeves and blockguards, myself included. Ran 25-28 lbs all season, 10.1 - 10.5 ETs 140-146 trap speeds, and I even just hammered it into the block after the motor was assembled and in the car...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-booster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one day everything we do will look ugly, people will one day look at you and say your ugly, lol. So....enjoy what you have its not forever.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, our flesh will change, but those *** aero parts will remain far longer.
Please remove that stuff and get some stock parts and maybe a mild lip and think of it as tough love......
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, our flesh will change, but those *** aero parts will remain far longer.
Please remove that stuff and get some stock parts and maybe a mild lip and think of it as tough love......
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