I was just wondering if it is worth replacing my GSR intake manifold. Im only boostin 8psi. on the blue box with the my greddy kit. Should I check out an aftermarket one or save the cash for something like hondata down the road??

 

this is beautiful

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greddyturboGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering if it is worth replacing my GSR intake manifold. Im only boostin 8psi. on the blue box with the my greddy kit. Should I check out an aftermarket one or save the cash for something like hondata down the road??</TD></TR></TABLE>
In my humble opinion, save for a Hondata + Dyno Tuning.

 

Hondata + Tuning

 

back to the original question...im interested I know that venom has a new design on that manifold, where it is more rounded instead of square

 

Rounded and square has no effect on the flow once its pressurized....its all about volume....I would go with the STR style...

 

the new venom design looks like the str, but is rounded out instead of flat, which should effect the volume, but i doubt it makes that much difference

 

just curious, are either the venom or the str manifolds street legal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec-Jesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just curious, are either the venom or the str manifolds street legal?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why wouldnt they be??? just make sure you can pass emisions, unless you dont have to worry bout them where ya live.

 

for your application i'd only get a skunk2
but i'd really just keep the stock manifold.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BoM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for your application i'd only get a skunk2
but i'd really just keep the stock manifold.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Or an ITR might be cheaper. BTW, you'd see much better gains with a Hondata + dyno time then you would see by adding on an IM.

*EDIT: I didnt know this was on a GSR, scratch the whole ITR mani idea.


Modified by Nine at 4:42 PM 5/1/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbologist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rounded and square has no effect on the flow once its pressurized....its all about volume....I would go with the STR style...</TD></TR></TABLE>

How can shape have no effect on flow? It still has to flow throw it even if its pressurized... Skool me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greddyturboGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just wondering if it is worth replacing my GSR intake manifold. Im only boostin 8psi. on the blue box with the my greddy kit. Should I check out an aftermarket one or save the cash for something like hondata down the road??</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it were up to me....since you have already installed everything I would get a hondata and tuning first. After you are tuned correctly then you can determine if you want to change the IM.

Keep in mind that you will also need to change your piping if you swich from the GSR IM to an aftermarket one.

 

I would keep the stock intake manifold and save for a Hondata setup I like Edelbrock's intake manifolds, Golden Eagle's intake manifold (as they designed them for a couple large companies) and ITR intake manifolds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ski_rebel_3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Keep in mind that you will also need to change your piping if you swich from the GSR IM to an aftermarket one.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i never changed my piping when i switched and it worked fine

 

im pretty sure the sheetmetal style intakes(GE, STR, VENOM) all show significant gains on high boost applications, at least thats what ive heard(Importbuilders said 20whp+) and st00pid uses them on his badass 420whp ls motors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ski_rebel_3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hondata and tuning first. After you are tuned correctly then you can determine if you want to change the IM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00si5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i never changed my piping when i switched and it worked fine</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you switch over to a Skunk2?

If so and you did not have to change your piping let me know how you did it. My understanding is the inlet for the stock GSR and Skunk2 IM are different.

Specifically I'm thinking about the area of the pipe between where the BOV sits and where it connects to the IM.


Modified by ski_rebel_3 at 5:30 PM 5/1/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ski_rebel_3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you switch over to a Skunk2?

If so and you did not have to change your piping let me know how you did it. My understanding is the inlet for the stock GSR and Skunk2 IM are different.

Specifically I'm thinking about the area of the pipe between where the BOV sits and where it connects to the IM.


Modified by ski_rebel_3 at 5:30 PM 5/1/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>all i did was push the charge pipe down farther into the silicone connedtor then it was fine. it still connected to the TB and itake mani fine. all i had to do was make a new elbow for my filter because it hit the upper radiator hose