I've read about amny different ECU replacements like ZDyne, Hondata and others. What do others feel is the best bang for the buck?

 

what year of car do you have?

 

Speed Pro............

 

Hey Accordking, how does the speedpro activate the VTEC?? and how easy is it to tune??

 

I'd recommend the TurboLink piggyback ECU (this ECU is very popular with all those turbo/SC miatas out there). You retain the stock ECU, so that when you drive without boost, the normal ECU does the work, retaining normal fuel consumption as what would be with an NA engine, but as soon as boost arrives, the TurboLink kicks in, and retards/advanced ignition, works the additional injectors, controls the boost, controls the VTEC, redline, etc.. mine cost about US$950, and its working fine for me - i'm boosting at 18psi daily with no problems at all. The unit is programmable via a Laptop or the easier to use Keypad (looks something like the A'PEXi FC controller) which just plugs into the TurboLink on the side. Also can work the MAP sensor so that it won't see boost (no more of those check valves/map bypass adapters). The fuel maps are fully 3D, boost/rpm/TPS. If you want a full ECU, then you can go for the IntegraLink ECU, which is a standalone ECU for B18C, B18C-R, and B16B - best thing is this particular ECU sits inside your ECU box, so no one would ever know you had a programmable ECU without opening the ECU up

get more info here if you're interested..
Link Electronics (New Zealand) - http://link-electro.co.nz/product_groups.html
there's also a homepage for the US distributors, but i've forgotten the URL - will try to find it and post here later if anyone's interested..

 

speed pro doesnt control the vtec. Actually you would have to get a MSD rpm switch with a rpm pill. The haltech e6k does have the vtec out option.

Speed pro is what most of everyone is switching too now that is running in the quick class.

 

hey b18bturbo, how easy is it to tune?? and how does the MSD switch over to Vtec??


[Modified by Gmedalion, 7:48 AM 8/31/2001]

 

its simple as pie..... compared to the older DFI days. You program your car first with a base program. Set your fuel curve. Set your timing curve. Datalog and set your adjustments for the closed loop mode.

 

Thanx V. Can u explain the MSD??

 

the msd is same principle that you have when you do a ls vtec swap using a ls ecu. You wire the vtec solnoid to msd rpm activated switch. you set the rpm you want vtec to engage by changing out the pills.

 

Thanx V!!!! Great looks.

 

RE: REDLINE: what year of car do you have?

I have a 1991 CRX si


[Modified by Teluan, 5:32 PM 8/31/2001] <U></U>


[Modified by Teluan, 5:33 PM 8/31/2001]

 

i would recommend the Hondata for obdI cars, and the ApexI PowerFC for obdII cars.

liam

 

Who has experience with the Zdyne? How does it differ from hondata?

 

As far as i know..Zdyne only makes boost happy ecu's for obd0 cars...but from what i heard they are very good.

liam

 

now, when you datalog and change settings as you test out your car, is that not the same as dynoing it? What does the dyno do differently? do you need both for high hp applications? (and high boost)

thanks

 

I agree, but I would recommend Hondata for ODB I and II. You can always swap a ODB I ECU in (with a little bit of wiring, but Hondata sells the harness.) and they incorporate everything. Fuel, timing, VTEC control, rev limiter, etc. Plus they tune it on a Dyno, so you know there will be no problems with detonation etc. This is just my opinon though. I believe Hondata is the best reprogram you can get for your car, and it is not as expensive as most stand alone systems! But just my 2 cents...

 

It is similar to dynoing but a whole lot cheaper. When you dyno your car, one of the goals you have are to achieve optimal air/fuel ratio and making changes to your fuel system to achieve this. With the speed pro system, you plug into the cell.. what air fuel ratio you want for what rpm, psi, or tps you want. Put in a base fuel map. After that you go do a datalog and the computer will make corrections based on how far you are off. Then you go back and correct your fuel map based on the percent that the computer had to adjust. It is really easy. The most challenging part is the timing. That is where you have to start pulling plugs, listening for pings.. etc.. But overall I am extremely satisfyed with it. You should see the looks I get at the track on street nites when people come up to me and I am in the middle of making changes. For the most part, you will have a pretty descent program after 3 wot pulls. I was not completely done tunning my sc'd civic, so I am going to put it off for the turbo instead