zimmy709

here's the story, hoping for a solid answer...

b18c turbo stock internals 7psi, 20oz breather catch can.

the problem: filled breather can to the point of overflow in 3 miles. i did some full boost (7psi) pulls in this three miles. the breather can was bone dry before i started this drive. i had previously had oil filling problems with my last catch can, but not bad, switched to a new setup similar to endyn using those block nipples but no drain back (not that it should matter in this case with this drastic of an issue) in hopes that i just needed a more efficient vent. i cannot come up with a solid answer. All I know is that when i got back i saw the trail of oil in the driveway, popped the hood said "eeeekkkkk" and proceded to clean up the oil mess ad check oil level in engine. To my expectations there was no oil reading on the dip stick. i am 100% positive the oil level was correct before this drive, i checked it.

RINGS??????

it has to be. i'm just in denial.

i appreciate your input.

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Do a compression then leakdown test. You also might want to switch your catch can lines from the block to the valve cover

zimmy709

I'm just thinking that's a LOT of blowby.... Even if moving the breather lines fixes that issue... I still have a problem

Runnerdown

So you have the two spots on the back of the block running to your catch can only? That's the problem right there. They will blow the oil right through on long hard pulls. You have to have a drainback on those, and even then that setup still sucks. Get one -10 an fitting welded to the front of your valve cover and call it a day

zimmy709

The oem valve cover vent is also routed to the catch can. Please correct me if I'm wrong. But wouldn't a drain line just provide yet another place for crank pressure to push oil up the line? I mean a drain either drains back into one of the same lines I already have, OR into the bung welded into the back side of my moroso oil pan. This seems like a sump setup to very effectively push all of my oil straight up from my oil pan. Maybe I'm wrong... Just speculating.

Another FYI, I changed catch can setups because I thought my old one didn't have enough capacity to vent pressure, it was connected from the oem pcv line an the valve cover line. Other thing to note both old and new setups were vented to atmosphere with no drain. Old setup did the same thing with oem black box an pcv valve in place. These are now gone an plugged

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

if you notice the endyne fittings, they are extended so less oil gets sucked thru.

Thats one thing about those fittings. the oil just get pushed out under pressure.

Another idea is to re-tap the OEM VC nipple to the larger size instead of going to a new area. I have also seen an oil cap with a screen (not the vibrant one) in the center to add extra venting

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Endyne kit with fittings on the back of the block is your problem, i ran that kit on my engine and would fill every pass i made at the track to the point of pouring out of it. I hate the block fittings. vent the valve cover and plug the block holes problem solved

Runnerdown

Yes !! Exactly what I'm saying, been there done that!

Factory Pcv and valve cover breather should be adequate for low power levels though. Blowing oil with that tell me the ring seal is no longer tight or there could possibly be cylinder damage.

blackeg

switching from the back of the block to using two -10 lines off my valvecover made a world of difference. i used to get a little bit of oil in the can, now i get nothing. it was totally worth the price of switching it over

racebum

deja vu

had the same thing happen. still not 100% sure what failed. gringotegra has my old bottom end. have been curious to see what failed if he ever tears it apart.

best guess was a fractured ringland

OP do a leakdown or compression test. the bad cylinder{s} should be obvious

zimmy709

I'll do a compression and leak down test first. There MUST be an issue. So I should eliminate all vent locations from the crank case and vent only from the valve cover...? AN bungs welded in place of corse. I agree with the ring, ring land or cylinder wall being the culprit. It's just a matter of finding out. Sounds like an engine tear down party to me

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Yes do the tests, then more then likely tear it apart. I had the same prob, it ended up being cravked ringlands on all 4 pistons

racebum

you can run a supra turbo pcv valve for the block. under vacuum it's effective and seals when under pressure. then do the dual 10an lines on the VC