MalcolmV8

Hey guys,

Well seems tonight I finally lifted the head and blew the head gasket. Coolant over flow bottle over flowing with coolant and messed in the engine bay, car ran really hot compare to normal coming home too.

I figure since I'm pulling the head to put in a new gasket and head studs I might as well drop the oil pan too and put some pistons and rods in but I have a few questions.

What's the stock compression ratio of a D16Y8 motor? I'm thinking I want to stay close to stock CR. What about rod bearings? I'd like to purchase something close to stock so I can just swap in my rods and pistons and go. Of course I'll check it with some plasti gauge.

Thanks for pointers. From reading this forum it looks like I want to get Vitara pistons. Any links or good sources to buy from at good prices?

Thanks
Malcolm

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Civic-...item231c715f48

MalcolmV8

That kit puts you at 8.5:1 CR. I was trying to avoid that as it kills gas mileage in normal cruise and the 30+ mpg is one of the super attractive features of these cars. Still need to figure out what stock CR is.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=d16y8+compression+specs

.. it'll tell ya all you need.... for next time..

D16Y8

1.6L 16-Valve SOHC VTEC Also available in New Zealand under the code D16Y6

Found in:
1996–1997 Honda Del Sol Si (US)
1996–2000 Honda Civic EX (US, UK)
1996–2000 Honda Civic Si (Canada)
Displacement – 1,590 cc
Redline – 6,800 rpm
Rev Limit – 7,200 rpm
ECU Code – P2P
Piston Code - P2P
Vtec Switch over – 5,600 rpm
127 hp (95 kW) at 6,600 rpm
107 lb·ft (145 N·m) at 5,500 rpm
Compression – 9.6:1
Bore and Stroke - 75mm x 90mm (2.95in x 3.54in)
Deck Height - 8.347 inches
Rod Length - 5.394 inches

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Pistons and rods are a big step. Just because you remove the head doesnt mean you can throw pistons and rods in. You should really have the cylinders honed at least. I would just get a new head gasket and head studs.

MalcolmV8

Very cool. Thanks man. Do they make Vitara's with stock compression or very close to it?

You can do simple hone at home with a honing tool in a drill. Very light just to get a fresh honing pattern in there for the new rings to seat in. Not normally how I build an engine as I'd normally take the block to a machine shop with the pistons, rods, crank etc. and get it all done right. However this motor is so tiny and cheap I don't really have much to loose just trying that out
I'm mainly after the rods getting in there as that appears to be the weakest link in these motors and I don't want it letting go on me. I was only running 8 lbs when the head lifted. Once it's back together I'll probably just run my 10 lb spring and enjoy that. I'm more after a fun peppy daily driver than an all out race build.

tron_

FJ Distributers sold Vitaras that came with a longer than 137mm rod. The longer rod bumped up the compression a bit since d16 motors running Vitara pistons usually suffer from really low compression. Not sure if they still make them though.

kbouchard1092

If youre only going to run 10psi there really is no need to upgrade pistons/rods. Why spend the money? Plus youre going to be loosing compression as well with that set-up. I would think at 10psi youre better off just changing the headgasket and getting some arp's if you had oem studs

Unless youre rings were shot? but i wasnt under that impression

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

^^

Since everything is all apart, this is the best time to solidify the bottom end..

Especially if he decides to boost more in the future. Rods and pistons will def be on the list.

Since it was overheated, a simple shave of the head will add some compression. theres many piston choices out there.

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

Yup and sooner or later you always want to up the boost lol

MalcolmV8

Cool I'll check that out.

Because the stock rods are just a ticking time bomb. I run the hell out of the car, I mean what's the point of having a turbo on there and not enjoying it
Besides never know what happens in the future, maybe throw a few more lbs at it, spray some meth what ever. Even if I don't go over 10 lbs I hate the feeling of it may strand me at any time if a rod or piston lets go. It's cheap insurance for a more reliable ride.
Not sure on the rings, the seem fine but I'm sure they've seen better days. Car has 183k miles on it now.

Agreed. What are some other good piston choices for these cars? Looking for some feed back from guys who've built these motors. It's my first Honda so I was just guessing at Vitara based on seeing it a lot on this forum.

I really wanna stick close to stock CR. I've built many supercharged V8s and when you get around the 8.5:1 and lower realm throttle response and gas mileage always suffer. No fun for a daily driver that you want some pep and fun in with good gas mileage to go.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

look up p2p0, he sells true oem bore vitaras and forged longer rods that make 8.5:1 c/r $400 for a whole kit....

Only one problem here though chief....Any and all forged rods in a sohc block, you need to notch the block, this means pulling the whole motor, removing the crank, notching and then proper clean up and re assembly, you cant just throw them in and go.....sorry for the bad news....

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

No. The Suzuki Vitara's piston design is what makes it too damn low in the first place. You'd have to go aftermarket to keep the engine at that static compression

MalcolmV8

I figured longer than stock rods would require some block notching but if all the aftermarket rods require block notching I may wait a bit as I have two project cars in the garage already that need to be closed up and rolling before I tear down the civic.

I never realized that when people referred to Vitara's it was the Suzuki Vitara. Now suddenly a lot of the posts I've read in the past make some more sense lol.
I did find some JP and CP pistons with a 9.0 or 10.3 static compression. Nothing right on the money but closer. However if notching the block is required for any aftermarket rod as posted above then I'll just put in a head gasket and head studs for now.

blackeg

yeah you will very likely have to notch. my engine didnt need the block notched much, but the girdle had to be cut up pretty good. this was with eagle h beams in a z6

kbouchard1092

i wouldnt want to make you refrain from getting aftermarket. If youre goal is to turn up the boost more by all means get them. All im stating is a new headgasket and arp's will fix youre problem. If you plan on taking it to higher HP levels then most definatly need new pistons rods. If youre goals are just to 10lbs i think youd be fine with just doing the head gasket and arp's and it would save you some money doing so. That would only be 150$ and youd be back on the road much quicker vs. alot more time and money. It's youre car and youre budget, If you can afford it then go for it. Id go with the 10.3 compression if it was me. i have 9:1 and wish i had went a little higher.

MalcolmV8

You wouldn't have any pics would you? I recall seeing the bottom end when I had the oil pan off but now trying to picture block & girdle setup down there I can't recall exactly.

Yeah since block notching is involved I may push that off till next winter for a project then. I have an 11 lb spring but I believe I'll only see 10 lbs at the motor with approx 1 lb drop across the intercooler.
I guess I should ask if I go this route do these motors hold up with 10 ~ 11 lbs of boost? What's the appox boost number where people find the rods let go? I mean I'm all for just doing a head gasket and studs and calling it a day if it's gonna run reliable for the summer. I'm just trying to avoid re-doing all this again in a week or two lol.

BTW - car is running again. I just put more coolant in it and disabled the boost controller (2 lb spring) and running it gently out of boost. Gets up to about 210 on the highway but says more around 200 on side roads. At least I can still use the car till parts get in and I can fix it. No oil in coolant and no coolant in oil at this time.

EG1834

I wouldn't ever just throw forged pistons is a stock bore block without checking piston-wall clearance. The forged pistons tends to expand more than the stock pistons, so if you aren't wanting to do it right the first time, you may very well get the chance to do it right the second time when it needs to be rebuilt.